Turbo Oil Line Questions for a 3B *PICS* (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Oct 5, 2008
Threads
60
Messages
673
Location
Kalispell, MT
I am piecing together a turbo for my 3B powered 40. I have read almost all of the turbo threads I can find (around 35 that are bookmarked now) and I have just a few questions about my oil lines and turbo position.

My turbo is a Mitsubishi off of '88 Volvo 740. It has a waste gate that from what I read is set to 12 PSI. It also has lines for coolant. It did not come with the metal stem and fitting for the oil feed line.

I had some lines made at the local industrial parts shop. They are rated for 250 f. The oil feed line I had made with the banjo fitting and bolt. It is a 14x1.25 mm and the line is 1/4 inch. The return line is a 1 inch line the I mated to the oil return line spur on the turbo and will be welding a bung to the oil pan.

Now the questions.:hmm::confused:

1st pic. Is my oil feed line to close to my turbo body? Will it melt being that close? Will a heat shroud protect it?

2nd pic. I am taking my oil feed from a plug I pulled in front of the oil pressure send. I read about it on a thread. Is this the right plug and will it send enough oil?

3rd pic. I am contemplating using the stock manifold as I am not impressed with the Isuzu manifold I have. I want to run a set up like this if I do. The oil return line would be on the top of the turbo body if I positioned it like that. Is that ok or does the oil return need to be on the bottom of the housing for proper drainage?

Thanks for your help, Isaac
photo 3.jpg
photo 1.jpg
stock mani turbo.jpg
 
More pics of the setup.
photo 2.jpg
photo 4.jpg
 
The oil drain has to be at the bottom because the oil is not pressurized after it leaves the bearing. Turbos use gravity to drain the oil, get a turbo shop to reclock the turbo for you so the drain will be at the bottom.
 
I thought about re cocking it but the waste gate arm is attached to both sides and I would have to fab something up to fix that. K might just change the manifold setup
 
Turbo # please Post .
1389645 ? as in Volvos #.

I think I read it correctly . Better exhaust part on the same mistu T, with 3517646 from a 1990 B230FT, But Both have a restricting flow feed banjo bolt.

As with your banjo fitting and hose , use a fuel line euro clamp just for backup , but as for temps , should be good.


VT

Edit , and the Cock , Drain flange Down and almost flat , cuz the OIL scuppers need to hold the oil for cooling and lube, they gravity drain.
 
Turbo # please Post .
1389645 ? as in Volvos #.

I think I read it correctly . Better exhaust part on the same mistu T, with 3517646 from a 1990 B230FT, But Both have a restricting flow feed banjo bolt.

As with your banjo fitting and hose , use a fuel line euro clamp just for backup , but as for temps , should be good.


VT

Edit , and the Cock , Drain flange Down and almost flat , cuz the OIL scuppers need to hold the oil for cooling and lube, they gravity drain.

VT thanks for the reply. Yes it is a Volvo 1389645 TD05 turbo.

Are you referring to the oil feed banjo bolt having a restricted port? the banjo bolt I sourced as a fit has a (im guessing) 1/16 inch opening. Is that the correct size?

Any idea of whether or not my choice of oil feed source on the block is legit?
 
I can't remember if it was Garret or Mitsubishi that had a restricting oil banjo.. I thought i had it my notes.
I know that the oil pumps were a larger volume for the turbo engines , same pressure sets.

If i get a chance i'll look deeper into this .
It's friday , just before crunch time.


Edit add.

It was on the bolt from the block to the feed line for the early units, after that they kept the same bolt , but design the turbo with the oil volume internal casting.

The Water cooled "hollow Bolts" are not the same as the oil feed one in the block. You should only have one copper seal per side of the banjo. If your looking for banjos with a barb connection, try Bosch fuel injection on the k-jetronic systems 1970-1986 in any euro cars.
I grabbed pre 90 and post 90 info.

Im using a modified post 90 Mitsubishi , intercooled, with the internal oil volume casting.I have also dropped the oil line to the vacuum pump system .
That way Idle hot I should have 1 bar @ 800 .
 
Last edited:
And Of course , Your Turbo , It wouldn't let me add four.

Part break down of the turbo is NLA for the dealers now , since they sell exchanged units.
I check in with Audi /VW / MB and a few more on the EPC , volvo had the nicest pictures, and since most like the quality of the pix , i used them.

VT
 
Last edited:
Thanks VT your the man! So you took your oil feed line from the same place as is in my pic?

Also I have those washers stacked on the banjo bolt and have not set it up right. they are just sitting there for now. I will put one on either side.
 
No
I used a steel bent line from the oil supply that was used to feed the Vac pump.
I discarded my Alt & Vac system .

I tried to type in and show it better with paint, I'm no artist , and screwed the pix up.

VT
 
Last edited:
VT do you have build thread with your turbo pics?

Looks like you used your blow by tube for the oil return? Is that right?
 
Well yes , sort of.
My draft tube has been removed and I now use an oil trap and passive to positive crankcase ventilation but now enclosed .

No i don't have a build thread , and it would be called a bumbling thread if it was true to reason.
I spent @#$% hours on making a nice serpentine drive belt system , duel sided drive , bla-bla -bs ..
After I was finished , sitting back , I thought ,Dumb-ass , where are you going to get parts while on expedition ?? this was custom for only walking into real automotive parts houses, (and there hit & miss).
So back to standard Vee belt but !!

The black thing in front of turbo is oil trap. The turbo i used is 1995 and a 1990 mitsu combined as for size . My oil flow restricter is Incorporated into the top of the turbo inlet.
If you look in there ,the later mitsu ones have a small hole at the bottom of the hollow bolt hole. Then you have a restrictive oil flow turbo that won't rob all the oil volume for the engine BUT you must use the water cooling since the oil no longer is for lube and cooling.

Grab the files you want , I'll clean @ end of day !!! Cleaned !!! 2011/05/29/19:00


On 3B's the oil piston cooling squirters are turned off less than 2 bar just for this reason , to keep idle oil pressure flow to the bearings.That oil cooling valve is found behind the fuel pump in the block 22mm head and looks like a hollow bolt .
It should not open till 2 bar to pass oil to the squirters, if is failing , you will get very low idle oil pressure.


VT
 
Last edited:
same turbo

my rig has been using the same turbo for 3 years now.

You'll need to allow the oil drain to point down. I used the valve cover as the return destination. Others use the oil pan but it's more work. So re-clock the turbo and/or build an adapter to the manifold that will change the attitude of the return oil line.

I disconnected the waste gate and it gives almost 14.5lbs of boost.
I have a build thread here somewhere.

I didn't worry about the draft tube, leave it all stock. Some try to re-route and capture the ccv but it's more work than it's worth in my opinion. You will drip some right onto the drive shaft but it's prettty minor.

Works awesome.
 
But in my opinion , Mitsu is twice over Garret Air/ Searching still.

VT

Edit:

Cleaned so the same-old is right , but can't spell ;)
 
Last edited:
an interesting point

I have a 40 with a TD05 12B with water inlets/outlets hooked up and a 62 series with a Garrett turbo from a 240 Volvo. The 62 series has the water left un-plumbed.

They both have been working fine for years. I built the 40 set-up and the 62 already had the turbo set-up built when I purchased the truck.

I'm told water is not necessary. They've both been working fine for a considerable period of time. Both have the waste gate actuators un-hooked. The mitsu makes about 14 lbs and the Garrett makes about 9 (There's no boost gauge on the Garrett set-up, I'm going on what the PO has told me.
The 40 has more snort but the 62 series is a true highway cruiser. They have different characteristics but both work great in different ways.
best
aaron


What do you mean by "But in my opinion , Mitsu is twice over Garret Air/ Searching still. "?
 
water cooling is NOT neccesary on a small diesel turbo.
if one wants to hook them up by all means, knock yourself out.
oil drain must be pointing down.
return to valve cover or oil pan, both work fine.
 
I used a Mitsu TD04 and also had to reclock the turbo. To solve the actuator arm issue, we relocated the actuator housing by drilling and tapping the turbo housing. If you use decent oil return line, then no need to worry about it being so close to the housing. I drained mine to the pan above the oil level and welded the bung at about 55deg angle to improve the gravity feed draining as much as possible..

I blanked the water inlet and outlet ...

https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tec...some-extra-air.html?highlight=Extra+air+olive

:cheers:
 
Thanks for all the replys!

Here is a preview of what I decided to do with the stock manifold. I re cocked the turbo and disconnected the waste gate arm. I may try it like that before I fab something up to fix it.

I'm glad to hear that I don't have to plum in the water. One less step and less junk under the hood. I'm hoping to have it finished this coming weekend.
image-3908810111.jpg
 
water cooling is NOT neccesary on a small diesel turbo.

That is your Opinion , and only a Opinion .

I'll add to this when Im off work, @ work I have access to most high end euros, so that where I can get info.
Edit:

Cleaned so the same-old is right , but can't spell ;)
 
Last edited:
no, that is NOT my OPINION.
where do you get the idea that it is my opinion? this statement is based on factual information recieved from a shop that makes custom turbos and intercoolers... for the last 33 years.
http://www.alamoturbochargers.com/theCompany.html
they deal with big rigs, drag cars, street cars and industrial applications. they are the company that built my custom turbos for the last 10 years.
when i asked about the water cooling turbos for the smaller 4.2 to 2.4 toyota engines their response was unnessary.
they know their s***.

do you?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom