turbo 3b help

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Technikev said:
By the time the exhaust gets through the turbo, it has cooled as much as one or two hundred degrees.

-kevin

The cooling is a simple rule of physics, an expanding gas looses temperature.

I have my pyro drilled and tapped into the manifold BEFORE the turbo. The 1250 F is a number that AXT has given me as being the top end. It also corresponds with the red zone of my Isspro pyrometer!
 
I think about 1200 degrees or so is about the top number for most diesels from Caterpillar to VW. Some things start to get in the melting range near that temp., namely aluminum. Regardless, 12-13 hundred is pretty f'n hot!
 
Are the AXT's based on the GT BB Garretts rather than the old school Garretts? I saw a post on here where a guy said his junker turbo Garrett .42/.48 had more power than the AXT on a mates rig. Now if the AXT's are GT Garretts which I think they are you need to remember that these new school turbo's require more boost to be in the peak efficency zone.

If you match up an old school Garrett at 9spi and a new school BB water cooled GT Garrett at 9spi, the old school turbo will make more power at this boost. Why is it so? The new school Garretts are designed to make their power using more boost. Now this turbo if its a GT25 has an efficiency range of between 1.4bar to 1.8bar where 1.6bar is peak efficency. To convert that to PSI that is 23PSI. Compare this with the old school Garretts of a similar size and much past 14PSI they are out of their peak efficiency zone.

Just something to think about when going with a new GT Garrett turbo, more boost is your friend.
 
But just wondering .. 1.8 bar are in the real worl .8 bar why .. 1 Bar are normal atm pres .. so 1.8 BAr only means .8 bar over the atm press ..
 
Tapage said:
But just wondering .. 1.8 bar are in the real worl .8 bar why .. 1 Bar are normal atm pres .. so 1.8 BAr only means .8 bar over the atm press ..

The AXT kit boosts to about 8-9 psi (but can be adjusted up) and most factory turbos (at least on Toyota diesels) are less than that. Both of those are less than 1.8 bar!
 
Your wasting a good turbo running an AXT at only 8-9psi, they are barely ticking over and your not getting anywhere near the potential from them. You may as well have a junkyard old school garrett if you are only going to run 8-9 psi because they will make more power. You need to get the AXT pumping more boost before they really come into their own which is my point.

I wouldn't bother running an AXT turbo unless you were going to run over 1 bar or 14.7 psi of boost.

On the GTR which had twin HKS GT 2530's it ran 28 PSI daily and at the drags and dyno comps it ran 34 PSI which was as high as it could flow air. At 35 PSI it lost power because it basically couldn't flow anymore air and it was past its peak efficiency zone. The low boost setting was 23 PSI which is the peak efficiency of the turbo.
 
R2HKS said:
Your wasting a good turbo running an AXT at only 8-9psi, they are barely ticking over and your not getting anywhere near the potential from them. You may as well have a junkyard old school garrett if you are only going to run 8-9 psi because they will make more power. You need to get the AXT pumping more boost before they really come into their own which is my point.

I wouldn't bother running an AXT turbo unless you were going to run over 1 bar or 14.7 psi of boost.

On the GTR which had twin HKS GT 2530's it ran 28 PSI daily and at the drags and dyno comps it ran 34 PSI which was as high as it could flow air. At 35 PSI it lost power because it basically couldn't flow anymore air and it was past its peak efficiency zone. The low boost setting was 23 PSI which is the peak efficiency of the turbo.

I'll let you turbo your 3B and run it to 28 psi all the time and when it's still going strong at 100,000 km POST turbo then I might consider going beyond the 10psi that is my wastegate setting now!

I run my truck through Mexico and the USA annually, both areas that the 3B has almost NO support. I CANNOT afford that my truck fails me in Mexico. It will be set in such a way that I can be as confident as possible that the truck will make the trip problem free. I'm not trying to win races, just to get where I'm going safely, reliably and without incident.
 
intersting stuff.....
another question...i know an old diesel is going to be a clattering rattling engine, but i was told that this particulr version i am looking at has solid engine mounts and the whole truck rattles you to the bone. can those engine mounts be swapped out with "soft" mounts (im guessing so) and if they can, ho wmuhc of a difference will it make with the insane shaking.
 
mancinator said:
intersting stuff.....
another question...i know an old diesel is going to be a clattering rattling engine, but i was told that this particulr version i am looking at has solid engine mounts and the whole truck rattles you to the bone. can those engine mounts be swapped out with "soft" mounts (im guessing so) and if they can, ho wmuhc of a difference will it make with the insane shaking.

the issue is if the soft mount can handle all torque produced by the engine ..
 
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