Tune up on an 80

Y

yomama

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Just wondering when you guys have done a tune up as far as the plugs, wires, rotor and cap? I have recently noticed a flutter once in awhile, I have just over 44k on her now with all original, except the plugs they came with the turbo. any good after market plug wires out there? By the way I thought I should mention if anyone is ever thinking about upgrading their ignition system, forget it, at least with the Jacobs. I installed it and the only performance increase I have gotten is more radio noise :'(....Good thing I have a MP3 player. :D

Yomama
 
bjowett

bjowett

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Very important to keep the ignition, as well as everything else in tip top condition with the turbo... you will probably need a cap and rotor, the wires may be fine, but it can't hurt to replace them. What plugs do you have? Run a couple of bottles of injector cleaner through the system/engine, then change your oil, as well as the fuel filter. That should be a good start.
 
Y

yomama

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Can't recall off hand which plugs I have, but I think they were two steps down colder then stock do to the turbo.

Yomama
 
Y

yomama

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Com'on guys, I can't believe that nobody else has done a tune up replacing the cap and rotor? I know Toyota is good, but they still need a tune up sometime? When I had my cap off around 35k there was allot of carbon in it then and the rotor was looking like it had arcing all over it.

Yomama
 
Beowulf

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Did cap, rotor, and plugs at 97k miles. Stock plugs but I'm normally aspirated. I would measure the resistance on the plug wires and keep them if they are in spec. If they are out of spec, the OEM wires are competitively priced, have good connectors, and are the correct length. Let us know how much you save if you go with the Bosch wires. They generally offer good products.

The thing I hate most with after-market parts is the surprises you get on installation. I bought a PCV valve at NAPA thinking, hey, it's just a PCV and they've been putting those on engines for 40 years. How can you screw that up. Well they did... it was too big. Not a LOT too big, just big enough to be hard to get in the grommet. Then the grommet breaks apart and you might have to fish it out of the valve cover (got lucky, none fell in...) Then you have to go with hat in hand and buy another, plus grommet, from your friendly dealer where you should have been in the first place. But I digress...

-B-
 
cruiserdan

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-H-,

A set of "real" ones for your beloved 3F (90919-21503)
lists for $75.35............ ::)

You could always import them....... 8)

I imagine that a smart shopper could get 'em for around 57 bucks or so.
 
T

tiorio

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Did mine at 65k when I got her and then same recently at 105k. Rotor, cap, wires, plugs, air and fuel filters, pcv.

Doing all 'extra' fluids this weekend (f&r diff, transfer case, tranny drain and fill) and having a 'normal' (not power) flush and fill on the cooling system with other service next week.

All OEM/dealer parts.

Cheers!
 
Beowulf

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Yomama,

A couple of tips in doing the tune-up.

Plugs:  Clean out the recessed area in the head with compressed air or a vacuum cleaner before you remove the plugs. Use anti-sieze on the plug threads. Use dielectric on the plug connectors. Use duct tape or something to secure the sparkplug socket to the extension when doing #6.

PCV: Replace the grommet at the same time. Yours should still be supple but on higher mileage engines the grommet is brittle and breaks apart easily.

Rotor: Simple
Cap:   Simple

Timing:  Check your static timing per FSM. Stock is 3 deg BTDC (I think)  For normally aspirated 1FZ-FE's this can be advanced to 6-7 for a little better performance and economy. Instructions are here: http://www.safari4x4.com.au/80scool/tech/timing.html

-B-
 
sjcruiser

sjcruiser

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Yomama,

Since you have a supercharger, & using Premium gas, it would be wise to go with Iridium plugs (expensive but last longer) - also with TRD or K&N airfilter but you probably have one already.

regards,
Frank.
 
C

cruiserman

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I replaced the plug wires at ~90k miles, but that was due to the fact that I tore several of the boots while doing a clean & gap on the plugs :mad:.

I clean and gap the plugs every 15K miles or so. I've replaced the set once over 70K miles.

I replaced the cap and rotor last year with Bosch parts. &nbsp:Drove on 5 cylinders for a bit after 1 plug wire came unplugged at the cap. I didn't notice any difference in performance.

I wouldn't do the wires unless they are out of spec on resistance.
 
B

BMT

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I replaced the cap & rotor at 60,000mi. The dealer had them in stock. Mine would get moisture in the distributor so I wanted to replace the rubber gasket. The dealer did not have that in stock. Yours may still be good but it is cheap insurance when changing everything else.
 
Y

yomama

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-B-

Actually I have read on NGK's website that they don't recommend putting anti-sieze on the plugs when you have aluminum heads. I had forgot to put it on two when I installed the turbo, four I put it on (thinking that was right). I won't use it next time.

Yomama
 
thorvald

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has anyone noticed a difference between oem wires and others, bosch, belden, etc.?
bought belden for mine cause they were $34 and local dealer was wanting $80 for oem. had belden in before from po so only difference I notice is that its running better from new plugs and wires.
will the oem's last longer or perform better? cause for 34 can buy three sets to the one oem.
 

Guest

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i too will be interested in the answer concerning aftermarket vs oem ignition wires,as i just purchased a cap/rotor/plugs from my local dealer and they didnt have the wires in stock(120.00)so i have not ordered them yet.
a friend of mine is part of an ihra drag car team and he says when i change the plugs,that if they are uniform in apearance,the wires should be ok.
is there any other way to tell if they should be replaced other than time or mileage?
my truck has 54600 and i believe all above parts are original(thats why i am tuning her up,she's running fine but i gotta do it!!)


doug
 
landtank

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You should be ok on the wires but to check them measure each wire's resistance. The max resistance is 25k ohms. If they are less they are still considered good.

Rick
 

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