Tundra Swap Questions (2 Viewers)

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Sep 28, 2020
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NJ
Hey Guys,

Been a long time lurker so its about time I make my first post. I'm going to be in the market for a 200 in the next 6 months and have been gathering details on mods I want to do, namely the Tundra swap. As I've been reading and collecting information, I just want to double check a few things from guys that have done it and some of the details that I may have looked over.
1. Required parts as I see it:
- Tundra LCA's and UCA's
- Tundra Tie Rod ends
- Tundra Sway Bar end links (or something similar that's stronger, if someone knows of a link I should go with please let me know.)
2. Shocks
- Been seeing guys run 200 series coilovers and tundra coilovers. Does this matter much? Does it depend on the shock manufacturer?
- Out of all the shocks on the market, I plan on going with Bilstein 6112's or Ironman FCP (no remote resi's). I'm planning on winch and bumper and skids upfront so it'll be reasonably heavy. I will be getting heavy spring rates, but do I get Tundra ones for the sake of keeping everything Tundra or 200 ones?
- I've also read that the lower shock mounting bolt is a pain in the ass to get mounted. Is that due to guys running with a 200 coilover or a Tundra coilover
3. Mods specific to the Tundra Swap
- The only mods that I've read guys doing to make this setup work for them is extending (I think from memory) the sway bar end link bucket out about an inch but is this necessary to do? Is this necessary only for guys running bigger tires or is it more for geometry/ride quality or both?
- What modifications do I need to run for bumpstops. I'm planning on going with DuroBumps as I had them on my 4Runner and loved them. Should I go with extended ones to not bottom out the Tundra shocks (if that's what I go with) because of the theoretical longer travel?
4. General Questions
- Will the standard 200 series knuckle still work?
- Is this mod KDSS compatible?
- Would there be any interference if I gusseted the knuckle with the total chaos kit?
- I'm planning on running 33s (not a big tire guy personally) so I'm assuming no trimming necessary for this mod.

Thanks guys, just trying to get all the information in one spot for the sake of my brain and organizing all the parts I'll need.
 
Hey Guys,

Been a long time lurker so its about time I make my first post. I'm going to be in the market for a 200 in the next 6 months and have been gathering details on mods I want to do, namely the Tundra swap. As I've been reading and collecting information, I just want to double check a few things from guys that have done it and some of the details that I may have looked over.
1. Required parts as I see it:
- Tundra LCA's and UCA's
- Tundra Tie Rod ends
- Tundra Sway Bar end links (or something similar that's stronger, if someone knows of a link I should go with please let me know.)
Tundra axles (If going extended travel get some RCV axles)
Longer brakes lines
Lower shock bolt
2. Shocks
- Been seeing guys run 200 series coilovers and tundra coilovers. Does this matter much? Does it depend on the shock manufacturer?
- Out of all the shocks on the market, I plan on going with Bilstein 6112's or Ironman FCP (no remote resi's). I'm planning on winch and bumper and skids upfront so it'll be reasonably heavy. I will be getting heavy spring rates, but do I get Tundra ones for the sake of keeping everything Tundra or 200 ones?
- I've also read that the lower shock mounting bolt is a pain in the ass to get mounted. Is that due to guys running with a 200 coilover or a Tundra coilover
The upper coil bucket is smaller than the Tundra, so some shocks reservoir lines will hit the bucket and will require modification. If you're going with the shocks without reservoirs, you should be fine.

The longer the shock, the harder it is to get into the lower shock bucket. I have extended travel Tundra shocks which require a little force to get in there.

3. Mods specific to the Tundra Swap
- The only mods that I've read guys doing to make this setup work for them is extending (I think from memory) the sway bar end link bucket out about an inch but is this necessary to do? Is this necessary only for guys running bigger tires or is it more for geometry/ride quality or both?
- What modifications do I need to run for bumpstops. I'm planning on going with DuroBumps as I had them on my 4Runner and loved them. Should I go with extended ones to not bottom out the Tundra shocks (if that's what I go with) because of the theoretical longer travel?
Regular Durobumps will be fine or try @PerryParts bumps.
4. General Questions
- Will the standard 200 series knuckle still work?
Yes
- Is this mod KDSS compatible?
- Would there be any interference if I gusseted the knuckle with the total chaos kit?
Gussets not needed. See this post about it in the Canguro Racing's Monica thread. Monica also might or might not be Tundra swapped..
If you really want to run them, I have set sitting on my shelf that you can have.
- I'm planning on running 33s (not a big tire guy personally) so I'm assuming no trimming necessary for this mod.
should be an easy fit unless you go with an odd wheel.
Thanks guys, just trying to get all the information in one spot for the sake of my brain and organizing all the parts I'll need.
I answered most of your questions. I could not answer the sway bar\KDDS questions as I don't have one nor did my LX come with KDDS.
here are some threads on the swap:

Good luck!
 
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For the swap, one thing to consider is the Tundra OTREs don't have great thread engagement. I would suggest running these Coachbuilder links. If you call and let him know you're doing the swap, he will actually position the joint correctly, and the engagement is far better.

On my LX, I ended up running my endlinks outside the swaybar due to the bucket being moved out towards the wheel. By swapping sides on the bar, then cutting and moving the bucket outwards, I was able to have the links vertical at ride height.
 
Tundra axles (If going extended travel get some RCI axles)
Longer brakes lines
Lower shock bolt

The upper coil bucket is smaller than the Tundra, so some shocks reservoir lines will hit the bucket and will require modification. If you're going with the shocks without reservoirs, you should be fine.

The longer the shock, the harder it is to get into the lower shock bucket. I have extended travel Tundra shocks which require a little force to get in there.


Regular Durobumps will be fine or try @PerryParts bumps.

Yes

Gussets not needed. See this post about it in the Canguro Racing's Monica thread. Monica also might or might not be Tundra swapped..
If you really want to run them, I have set sitting on my shelf that you can have.

should be an easy fit unless you go with an odd wheel.

I answered most of your questions. I could not answer the sway bar\KDDS questions as I don't have one nor did my LX come with KDDS.
here are some threads on the swap:

Good luck!
Thanks a lot dude. Much appreciated.

Forgot about needing tundra axles. I was thinking about standard RCV tundra axles. I have rebooted CVs after lifting toyotas before and I would like to not repeat that process, so getting CVs with more undulations in the boot would be the move for me I think.

I'm assuming just get a standard tundra lower shock mount bolt then?

If I installed cam tab gussets down the road from TC I'm assuming I can still go with 200 ones. Or since now I've got Tundra LCA's, do I need tundra specific cam tabs gussets because the tabs are different?

I'm planning on running stock wheels or stock offset wheels.

I'll have to keep digging on the KDSS and sway bar stuff then, seems like most have got it figured out but I'll keep reading.

I'll pm you about the gussets you've got.
 
Thanks a lot dude. Much appreciated.

Forgot about needing tundra axles. I was thinking about standard RCV tundra axles. I have rebooted CVs after lifting toyotas before and I would like to not repeat that process, so getting CVs with more undulations in the boot would be the move for me I think.

I'm assuming just get a standard tundra lower shock mount bolt then?

If I installed cam tab gussets down the road from TC I'm assuming I can still go with 200 ones. Or since now I've got Tundra LCA's, do I need tundra specific cam tabs gussets because the tabs are different?

I'm planning on running stock wheels or stock offset wheels.

I'll have to keep digging on the KDSS and sway bar stuff then, seems like most have got it figured out but I'll keep reading.

I'll pm you about the gussets you've got.
You can use the TC 200 cam tab gussets, I run them - and use same cam bolts, etc. The only bolt that is any different is the lower shock bolt
 
For the swap, one thing to consider is the Tundra OTREs don't have great thread engagement. I would suggest running these Coachbuilder links. If you call and let him know you're doing the swap, he will actually position the joint correctly, and the engagement is far better.

On my LX, I ended up running my endlinks outside the swaybar due to the bucket being moved out towards the wheel. By swapping sides on the bar, then cutting and moving the bucket outwards, I was able to have the links vertical at ride height.
Thanks for the info, I did read about that but forgot to mention it.

I'm having a difficult time imagining this in my head, can you post some pictures when you get a chance? How much did you cut and move the bucket outwards?
 
Thanks for the info, I did read about that but forgot to mention it.

I'm having a difficult time imagining this in my head, can you post some pictures when you get a chance? How much did you cut and move the bucket outwards?

here’s the ugliness. I did it wheels on the ground. When it comes time to do it fresh, I’ll cut the bucket and weld a full bracket on the arms before installing. Some 1/8” steel and a solid tig weld on both sides and below, and it’s held up

1721747513287.jpeg


1721747539602.jpeg


1721747617471.jpeg
 
here’s the ugliness. I did it wheels on the ground. When it comes time to do it fresh, I’ll cut the bucket and weld a full bracket on the arms before installing. Some 1/8” steel and a solid tig weld on both sides and below, and it’s held up

View attachment 3684442

View attachment 3684443

View attachment 3684444
Thank you, yea definately going to take your advice to do that before installing? Thats roughly an inch out? And did you make your endlinks or is there a kit you ordered for that.

Thanks
 
Thank you, yea definately going to take your advice to do that before installing? Thats roughly an inch out? And did you make your endlinks or is there a kit you ordered for that.

Thanks

I think you're right that it's about an inch. I got all the heim parts here, including safety washers. I used a variety of high offset heim spacers as well on the lower arm to give the greatest articulation I could.
 

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