A few months ago I was searching for rims as I needed to replace my failing aftermarket rims before purchasing new tires. That's when I discovered Tundra rims as a viable option. A quick search here showed several posts on this topic, however it was lacking details. I hope this will help somebody who has the same questions as I did, who wants to tackle this project.
I'm working on a '98 Land Cruiser and fitted stock 2016 Tundra aluminum rims & tires.
I read that Tundra rims hit and people have even used spacers, but couldn't find exactly what they hit and what the spacers fixed. I've found the Tundra rims fit perfectly with Tundra OEM 18' w/ 275/65 tires without spacers, however I do have an OME suspension lift with a Slee diff drop. IMHO I think this will still work on a stock 100, but don't hold me to it.
The only thing I found that hits is the front center caps. It only has some slight interference and this is why I'm writhing this detailed "How To".
First I ordered new lug nuts that fit the 2016 Tundra rims. The stock '98’s have a shank that are too long, apparently there was a lug nut change around 2011. I used Toyota PN# 90942-A1001, eBay listed them for about $75 for the set. I also ordered new dust covers for the front hubs form American Toyota (purely optional as I wanted the look of the new dust covers).
Next I removed the Toyota emblem and precisely centered drilled the pilot holes in the front caps.
I've read someone used a hole-saw running it backwards, but personally don't like the rough hole it leaves.
Instead I used a Greenlee slug buster knockout for a 1 3/4 conduit (standard knockout may break the plastic) the inside diameter was just enough clearance for the dust cover and is why I needed to be precisely centered with my pilot hole.
I sanded the nubs off on the inside of the cap to allow the knockout to fit flush- this ended up not being an issue and may be omitted.
Now looking at the hub, you'll see too raised nubs, and you'll want to concentrate on the ones that are evenly spaced next to the spoke (the other nub has these nuts spaced around the lug nut).
Now I put the pry slot on the nub that was spaced around the lug nuts. This was so that I can keep both the same and know what end is what I was working on.
I marked the center of the two nuts on each hub cap and ground clearance slots using a carbide burr mounted in the drill press. This afforded the best control over using a standard die grinder.
I did a little at a time and test fitted until I was happy with fitment. The cap seemed to snap on but didn’t feel like it was quite rite. So I used some clay and pressed them in the areas I wanted to check for clearance issues. I suspected the other two nuts opposite of what I just fitted was hitting. Sure enough I could see the small indents in the clay and used the burr to remove some of the plastic to clear the nuts.
Now the caps snap in like they are supposed to, and the reveal is what a proper fitting cap should look like.
This is an easy project and think the spacers are merely for looks. If the spacers are used beforehand the amount of center cap modifications would be lessened to some degree if not eliminated, notching the inner center cap aremay be the only thing that is needed.
When these tires are worn out I’ll look at fitting an aggressive and bigger tire and possibly using a spacer. I have my doubts that spacers are as bad as some people think, but that’s a whole new discussion!
Cheers,
Dean
I'm working on a '98 Land Cruiser and fitted stock 2016 Tundra aluminum rims & tires.
I read that Tundra rims hit and people have even used spacers, but couldn't find exactly what they hit and what the spacers fixed. I've found the Tundra rims fit perfectly with Tundra OEM 18' w/ 275/65 tires without spacers, however I do have an OME suspension lift with a Slee diff drop. IMHO I think this will still work on a stock 100, but don't hold me to it.
The only thing I found that hits is the front center caps. It only has some slight interference and this is why I'm writhing this detailed "How To".
First I ordered new lug nuts that fit the 2016 Tundra rims. The stock '98’s have a shank that are too long, apparently there was a lug nut change around 2011. I used Toyota PN# 90942-A1001, eBay listed them for about $75 for the set. I also ordered new dust covers for the front hubs form American Toyota (purely optional as I wanted the look of the new dust covers).
Next I removed the Toyota emblem and precisely centered drilled the pilot holes in the front caps.
I've read someone used a hole-saw running it backwards, but personally don't like the rough hole it leaves.
Instead I used a Greenlee slug buster knockout for a 1 3/4 conduit (standard knockout may break the plastic) the inside diameter was just enough clearance for the dust cover and is why I needed to be precisely centered with my pilot hole.
I sanded the nubs off on the inside of the cap to allow the knockout to fit flush- this ended up not being an issue and may be omitted.
Now looking at the hub, you'll see too raised nubs, and you'll want to concentrate on the ones that are evenly spaced next to the spoke (the other nub has these nuts spaced around the lug nut).
Now I put the pry slot on the nub that was spaced around the lug nuts. This was so that I can keep both the same and know what end is what I was working on.
I marked the center of the two nuts on each hub cap and ground clearance slots using a carbide burr mounted in the drill press. This afforded the best control over using a standard die grinder.
I did a little at a time and test fitted until I was happy with fitment. The cap seemed to snap on but didn’t feel like it was quite rite. So I used some clay and pressed them in the areas I wanted to check for clearance issues. I suspected the other two nuts opposite of what I just fitted was hitting. Sure enough I could see the small indents in the clay and used the burr to remove some of the plastic to clear the nuts.
Now the caps snap in like they are supposed to, and the reveal is what a proper fitting cap should look like.
This is an easy project and think the spacers are merely for looks. If the spacers are used beforehand the amount of center cap modifications would be lessened to some degree if not eliminated, notching the inner center cap aremay be the only thing that is needed.
When these tires are worn out I’ll look at fitting an aggressive and bigger tire and possibly using a spacer. I have my doubts that spacers are as bad as some people think, but that’s a whole new discussion!
Cheers,
Dean
