Tub measurement help (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 19, 2021
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Location
Renton, WA
Working on panel fitment and running into some confusing issues. Hoping anyone with a ‘79 or later can help provide some reference photos and/or measurements. The current fitment issue is: the crossmember is more recessed than the original piece.

The square framing was constructed based off the original tub before it was cut out so everything should line up with this framing. All panels are Real Steel brand. The crossmember is more recessed than the original creating a pinched in effect where the quarters wrap around.

I discovered the lip (where the door seal makes contact) on the Real Steel crossmember is shallower than the original - see photo, the square framing bolts up to the original door striker so that should be the reference point that’s necessary for the doors to close. However, I need to make sure the doors will make enough contact at the base, along the crossmember, to seal correctly. If the rear crossmember is truly recessed then I want to modify this before I finalize the positioning so I get a good seal on the doors and I don’t have a puckered butt look from the quarter panels pinching in.

Any reference measurements are appreciated. Especially from points on the tub that relate to fixed positions in the front section showing a distance to the rear crossmember lower corners (door seal areas) or the rear door lower striker. Thanks!!!!
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Check the front (forward) lip also. My sill patch doesn't line up with the ribbed bed length
correctly. I have mine apart at the moment (just the sill off) and have
let it sit while I think about what to do. I can probably jimmy up my old sill and get any
measurement you need. Mine is a 1979.

I can PM you tomorrow when I'm back in the shop.
 
maybe this might help---

77 frame.jpg


skid plate-exh cutout.jpg
 
Thanks, however the frame dimensions don’t matter much. There’s a bit of play in the body mount holes for it to line up with the frame and you can play with the shot lines on the front panels to even this out. I’m hoping to make sure the rear sill protrudes enough to create a tight seal with the rear doors and create the right aesthetic for the depth of the rear bed vs the quarter panels. Thanks @wimberosa anything you can provide is helpful. I know these aren’t Bentley coach built bodies but I want to make sure I’m in range. A lot of time and money will be invested by the time this is done and it would suck if it wasn’t right when I start assembly.
 
From what I've seen of other builds (documented here) using the Real Steel parts, the rear sill is always too short and has to be lengthened, in order to get the curved ends to match correctly. Maybe some others with direct experience will chime in.
 
I'm getting concerned that I'm going to throw you off.....so I think we need a third party here to also give measurements!

My new sill is long in the front to back (front of truck to back of truck direction) compared to my old sill. So I've cut my bed some.
When I line up my old sill I'm showing a gap now (pic included). I see you measuring from the front mid seat riser in one
of your pics. My thoughts are.... that we might not end up with what Toyota thought were the "important" dimensions
and there could be some slack differences if we don't pick the right spot.

Truly I think the only thing that matters is whether the back of the truck (wheel well back) and thus back quarter panel skin
lines up across the sill and that there is enough play in the striker to get the door closed nicely and it lining up. You however
look like you don't have any of your bed or wheel wells in place anymore?

PM me and lets settle on some dimensional positions and get another party to also give us those dimensions.

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