Trying to work out what's going on with clutch and difficult shifting in manual box diesel 80 (1 Viewer)

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Location
Toronto, NSW, Australia
I'm noticing the clutch in my 80 isn't operating as it should lately and a couple of times I've gone to select 1st gear when doing a hard lock left turn into the driveway of where I rent and the gears have crunched just slightly and I had to come to a full stop and try getting 1st. Also I'm finding I have to be a lot more careful shifting in/out of 2nd/3rd/4th.

The clutch has been in the vehicle since about 2017 so now 6 yrs. It's not a factory toyota clutch but a 4-terrain Australian one from Clutch Industries.

I don't have the facilities to drop out the gearbox quickly/easily to inspect the clutch but if I do actually get money to buy a replacement motor for the ancient original 1hz it might happen here at home.

Is there anything I can do without seperating the transfer and gearbox from the engine to address clutch misbehaviour? The gearbox oil and transfer oil were both renewed last year in December prior to it's last rego inspection.

I'll check the external things naturally - master, slave and connections between - and see I can rule them out or not. Both the master and slave are new genuine within the last 6 ish years so around the time when the clutch was done (but I replaced them myself seperate to the clutch proper work).

I suppose the other possibility is the box itself - synchro's specifically, but I wouldn't know how to diagnose those.

Ta.
 
If it not slipping the most likely just out of adjustment ,sounds like it not fully
disengaging.
 
No not slipping. When installed, it was fitted with a new genuine Toyota throwout bearing. The clutch fork and pivot pin were not replaced.

How does one 'adjust' an installed clutch? I am aware that the clutch slave cylinders come in a few variations and mine has the correct one for it's time period (a pink one that's a genuine Toyota part).
 
I suppose the other possibility is the box itself - synchro's specifically, but I wouldn't know how to diagnose those.
Symptoms sound a lot like half of the other H15X boxes I've driven, all with fewer km's than yours. If you can live with stopping for 1st and shifting a bit more carefully then I wouldn't worry too much. How many km's on that clutch?
 
No not slipping. When installed, it was fitted with a new genuine Toyota throwout bearing. The clutch fork and pivot pin were not replaced.

How does one 'adjust' an installed clutch? I am aware that the clutch slave cylinders come in a few variations and mine has the correct one for it's time period (a pink one that's a genuine Toyota part).
There should be a adjustment in the rod between the the pedal and the master cylinder. Pedal height needs to be correct refer to the FSM
 
Try Redline MT90 in it.

Cheers

This, or Castrol VMX-M

I agree with @Broski , check adjustment at the pedal. There's limited adjustment at the pedal, none at the slave cylinder.

If clutch is worn, and pedal adjustment isn't quite right you might not be fully disengaging the clutch.

If the engine is running with the car parked, does it shift freely into 1st and reverse? When the clutch in my HZJ105 was worn out, it sometimes wouldn't allow me to select first or reverseb while parked, but driving was fine.
 
Symptoms sound a lot like half of the other H15X boxes I've driven, all with fewer km's than yours. If you can live with stopping for 1st and shifting a bit more carefully then I wouldn't worry too much. How many km's on that clutch?
Probably 100 to 125 k km on the current clutch. The box was a rebuilt one from Newcastle gearbox and diff at Broadmeadow. Not a heavy duty upgraded one from that 360 gearboxes place in VIC. I've never really liked the feel of the 4terrain clutch but it's been fine up to recent months. If I do get a motor replacement I might go back to full factory clutch or use the turbo factory clutch parts with the special Hino/Isuzu clutch plate to adapt for my fine-spline h150f.

If my 80 should have a 'buttery smooth' clutch I've never experienced that. :cool:

There should be a adjustment in the rod between the the pedal and the master cylinder. Pedal height needs to be correct refer to the FSM

Ah thanks. I'd forgotten about that aspect. I'll try to check that out and make sure the hydraulic side is doing it's thing properly.
 
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Try Redline MT90 in it.

Cheers
I use Castrol VMX-M but it appears that is NLA now and Castrol has replaced it with VMX-80W
 
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