Truck will not start (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Here is a cursory check of all 3 fusible links in system:
This assumes a stock configuration.

Dome lights working?
Brake lights working?
When you turn the key to ON does the CHARGE LAMP light up?

If yes to all 3, then all 3 fusible links are intact.
Dome lights yes
Brake lights yes
Discharge warning light above volts yes.
 
I don’t see 12 volts on pin 8.
I put the positive side of the meter in the pin and the negative side on the negative battery.
 
If I put the negative side of my meter in pin 8 and the positive side on my battery I get 12 volts.
 
Could my replacement wires be too long?
 
39569928-162E-456D-A4BB-4E4BC7ADA3E1.jpeg
 
Break down for troubleshooting purposes.
Truck would not restart once stopped. Would crank but not start.
No Check Engine Light with key in on position. CEL
Could not jumper the Fuel Pump.
Fusable link was in bad shape. Replaced with wire.
No power still on the diagnostics port B+.
Main EFI relay passed ohms test.
Main EFI relay failed power test.
Replaced Main EFI relay and truck started.
 
Well I tested the main EFI relay and it passed one test and failed the power test.
there happen to be a spare one the glove box for some reason, and the truck started.
LOL, it was there because the PO likely knew that the relay is a known issue on the 3fe.
 
LOL, it was there because the PO likely knew that the relay is a known issue on the 3fe.

I wonder if the crappy links, which had exposed parts of wire, is killing the EFI relay.
 
I wonder if the crappy links, which had exposed parts of wire, is killing the EFI relay.
Not likely.
And the positive battery terminal in the picture is not properly clamped to the battery stud.
 
Last edited:
Do they typically go out?
Fusible links can become intermittent due to vibration and fatigue, where the internal wire will fracture and the silicone jacket will keep it in position. However, in its basic form it is simply a fuse. If overloaded, the internal wire will melt and the silicone jacket will remain intact.

In any case, it is good practice to change them out with every battery change and make sure the junction box for the 2 ring terminals is in good shape with the cover closed. You don't want that making contact with anything under the hood.
 
Fusible links can become intermittent due to vibration and fatigue, where the internal wire will fracture and the silicone jacket will keep it in position. However, in its basic form it is simply a fuse. If overloaded, the internal wire will melt and the silicone jacket will remain intact.

In any case, it is good practice to change them out with every battery change and make sure the junction box for the 2 ring terminals is in good shape with the cover closed. You don't want that making contact with anything under the hood.
Do the EFI Relays typically go out?
 
Do the EFI Relays typically go out?
Keep in mind that the EFI relay on all 80 Series from 1991 through 1997 are the same part number.
Most of the issues regarding the EFI relay on a 3FE are due to heat.
The exhaust manifold on the 3FE is on the left where the it is on the right on a 1FZ, opposite the under hood fuse box.
Combine the heat of the manifold with 30 year old crimps, and you have the possibility of failed or intermittent connections.
The insulation on the fuse box wires becomes brittle from heat and time.

Several 3FE owners have relocated the EFI relay outside of the fuse box, but I rewired mine using high temperature wire with crimped and soldered connections.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom