truck lurches forward when shifting from neutral to drive (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter onemudder
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #3
I checked and it starts at 1300 in P/N , say at a light, and then hits 900 once D is gear. Maybe the issue is the high idling itself in p/n ?
Could be as that's a high idle.
What's the idling RPM when engine is warm?
Mine idles in D at about 550 rpm.
Do you have an obd gauge tool to see your rpm and coolant temp when you recreate this?
At 187°F your rpm should be at 650ish.
At 187°F your rpm should be at 650ish.
- Thread starter
- #9
Ok when not warmed to operating temp:
1200rpm P/N to 800 rpm to D
— which makes sense to me that the high rpm’s itself would cause a clunk lurch.
Operating temp (checked after driving an hour on the highway) :
600rpm ish both in N and D
I will have to chase down my OBD gauge but the operating temperature is key in my case.
due for a drain/ fill ATF change regardless.
Thanks for the tips and prompts guys!
1200rpm P/N to 800 rpm to D
— which makes sense to me that the high rpm’s itself would cause a clunk lurch.
Operating temp (checked after driving an hour on the highway) :
600rpm ish both in N and D
I will have to chase down my OBD gauge but the operating temperature is key in my case.
due for a drain/ fill ATF change regardless.
Thanks for the tips and prompts guys!
The first few minutes of cold operation are going to be over 1000rpm-then after a few minutes it will drop down to 600range depending on A/C compressor (defroster) engagement or not.
If rpm’s are not dropping down after a few minutes- inspect all of your vacuum lines and fittings for a break or disconnected line, check your air filter is clean, that the lid was securely fastened, and lastly check the MAF. Dirty MAF will produce erratic high idle. Use MAF cleaner, disconnect battery for 15 min, spray cleaner on MAF sensor wires reinstall and reconnect battery.
The ECM will take a few driving cycles to create new AFR parameters so don’t be surprised by high idle for 4-5minutes till warm until it’s dialed in the optimal AFR for your truck.
If rpm’s are not dropping down after a few minutes- inspect all of your vacuum lines and fittings for a break or disconnected line, check your air filter is clean, that the lid was securely fastened, and lastly check the MAF. Dirty MAF will produce erratic high idle. Use MAF cleaner, disconnect battery for 15 min, spray cleaner on MAF sensor wires reinstall and reconnect battery.
The ECM will take a few driving cycles to create new AFR parameters so don’t be surprised by high idle for 4-5minutes till warm until it’s dialed in the optimal AFR for your truck.
