Troutfin's LX 570 Build (1 Viewer)

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Troutfin

SILVER Star
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Threads
1
Messages
12
Location
Littleton, CO
Been lurking on here for years and I decided to finally start participating. I picked up a bone stock 2013 LX 570 about two years ago, with 136k on the clock and a good maintenance record.
Wheels and tires were quick to follow. I went with Icon rebound wheels and BFG KO2 285/75/17. Had to do a fair amount of trimming on the wheel well plastic, and now only have minor rubbing at full cocked in reverse.

Picked up a set of black land cruiser roof rails on CL for $50. The install was pretty straight forward and even managed to not drop any parts inside the roof. More to come.

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Been lurking on here for years and I decided to finally start participating. I picked up a bone stock 2013 LX 570 about two years ago, with 136k on the clock and a good maintenance record.
Wheels and tires were quick to follow. I went with Icon rebound wheels and BFG KO2 285/75/17. Had to do a fair amount of trimming on the wheel well plastic, and now only have minor rubbing at full cocked in reverse.

Picked up a set of black land cruiser roof rails on CL for $50. The install was pretty straight forward and even managed to not drop any parts inside the roof. More to come.

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What are the offset of those wheels? Welcome!
 
I know there is a ton of discussion on here about wheels, tires and rubbing. I have a couple of pics that may help others to understand what the rubbling of a 285/75/17 BFG KO2 tire on a 25mm offset wheel actually looks like. The mud flaps show the rubbing points and then where I cut them. There is also a pic of the front plastic that was cut away.

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For future readers you can take out the vertical oriented screws on the front liner, push them forward one screw location, and reattach.

I like your mudflap trim! I should’ve done that instead of removing.
 
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Thanks for the info Grinchy. Spent a fair amount of time reviewing your build - love it. I saved a bunch of the cut off pieces in case I wanted to patch up areas where I cut away too much. I am happy with leaving a bit of the exterior mudflap, as it nearly eliminates mud spray on the side of the vehicle.
 
Decided to tackle a couple small "bang for the buck" improvements. I picked up a 3M headlight restoration kit and brought my lenses back to clear. Also picked up some cheap yellow LED fog light bulbs and swapped them out. Overall, a big improvement in lighting for under $50.

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Installed a prinsu roof rack and am quite happy with it. The install was pretty straight forward, but a couple of my retainer brackets were loose and in jeopardy of falling down inside the roof. I took a pipe cleaner, bent a little hook in the the end, and pushed it down through the hole prior to removing the second bolt on each mount. This worked great and didn't loose any retainer brackets.

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Rear Storage
My primary goal for my build was to make short overland trips (3-5 days) more convenient. I wanted a flexible storage solution that would allow me to store my camping and fishing gear, but be able to easily take gear over to a campsite that might not be right next to my vehicle. I opted to build my own solution based on removable bins rather than drawers. Here is what I came up with including a brief on the build.

I started out with 4 purchasing 4 Frontrunner Wolf Pack bins and 2 Rtic 52 coolers. The rest of the build is based off the dimensions of these items. I started with configuring the base plate to attach to the third row seat anchors. I found the perfect fit with a bracket from Grainger that I could just swap out the top plat for a larger aluminum plate to hold the base down. I cut holes in the base and routers a small recess to accept my larger aluminum plate.
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With the base attachment done, I constructed a very simple box with 3/4" plywood, spacing the vertical supports to be snug against the Wolf Pack bins. I cut a couple of access ports in the front vertical support to allow for access to the mounting hardware for simpler install and removal.
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I mounted a few ledger boards that grab the edges of the bin lids just tight enough that they slide in, but are tight enough to prevent movement or rattling. Three coats of Shalac on the inside. The hardware in the front is to eventually attach a second row seat platform to sleep on.
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I used a router to add some slots and recesses to allow a strip of 1" heavy duty webbing to be woven through the top on both sides, proving a bunch of tie-down points that lie below the surface of the deck. The cross shaped recess is for the cooler tie-down brackets for the Rtic coolers. I added 2 t-track rails in the middle for additional tie down points on in the interior. I custom cut the side wings to fit the vehicle contours and recessed some neodymium magnets to hold them down to some basic steel L-brackets mounted to the sides of the box.

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The top was finished with 1 coat of pure-bond primer, 3 coats of enamel in grey, then 3 coats of matte polyurethane.
The finished product
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The skinny slot in the middle was designed to hold a Patagonia black hole flyrod case.
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That is some great detail work and craftsmanship. Purpose driven and well thought out. Thanks for this thread.
 

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