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Trouble starting 2F

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by xumFJ40, Feb 12, 2004.

  1. xumFJ40

    xumFJ40

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    Hey gang,

    I just had my carb rebuilt, bolted it up and tried to start the truck. I don't know how to describe this other than......

    The truck will start and seems to be running. However, as soon as I let off the key the truck imeadiatly dies. If I hold the key "On" the truck starts and I can rev the engine...etc...so I am pretty sure that it is running, but the starter is too. And like I mentioned as soon as I let off the key the truck dies. ??? Anyway, I have never experienced anything like this. Any insight would be appeciated.

    I appologize if this has been discussed before, I didn't have the time to search like I usually do.

    Thanks,

    Ryan

    Oh...by the way, I have never had the truck running. Rebuilt the wiring harness, the stock ignitor failed so currently I am bypassing it by using a condenser per the Haynes manual instructions.
     
  2. theo

    theo

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    I don't know specifically, but it sounds like your ignition is only getting voltage in the Start key position. You need to find the wire that supplies voltage to the ignition coil with the key in the On position and make sure it's hot. I bet it isn't. ;)
     
  3. CruisinGA

    CruisinGA

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    Did you plug in the idle fuel solenoid when you reinstalled the carb?
     
  4. xumFJ40

    xumFJ40

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    Theo, I will check the ignition wire tonight. Now that you mention it, the balast is not hooked up because I was bypassing the ignitor. IIRC the wire you are talking about connects to the ballast. It that is not directly connected to the coil would the result be the problem I am having?

    Bailey, The idle solenoid is plugged in and working...i.e. it clicks when I turn the ignition.

    Ryan
     
  5. theo

    theo

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    When I bought my FJ I did the same ignitor bypass as you. Got it running but had other major problems. Trouble is, I can't remember what exactly I did.

    What I know, though, is you have to power the coil! I guess I would go back over the bypass surgery step by step. Maybe you missed something??
     
  6. tobydog

    tobydog

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    Its ignition wire. Ballist is bypassed during starting to send full 12 volts to coil. After start or when key moves back to run position current only goes to ballist to reduce voltage to coil so points don't burn up.
     
  7. xumFJ40

    xumFJ40

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    Theo,

    I am just bypassing temporaraly untill I can get the Pertronix and Vac Advance dizzy in place. The problem w/the proceedure is that it does not say anything about that wire.

    Tobydog,

    I am assuming from your post that I don't need to wire the ballast. However, once I have the Pertronix in place, I would assume that I also do not need it. Going to be running the 40K flame thrower coil
     
  8. cavsfj40

    cavsfj40

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    when my ballast went bad these were my exact symptoms so i would suspect ypur disconnected ballast has something to do with it
     
  9. folsom50

    folsom50

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    If everything is the same on pretronix as the 2 f*rds I installed them on, you will need the ballast yet. The size of the coil don't mean diddly, it's the voltage that the ign. requires that dictates the ballast.
     
  10. xumFJ40

    xumFJ40

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    Okie Dokey....I will give it a shot w/the ballast attached.