Trouble getting the leaf springs back in the hangers...

[sproggy]

So, I just replaced all my bushings in the front and back leaf springs, shackles and hangers…something I had talked about in a previous post. My front end is a bit mangled due to a rough life but after some four letter words I got it done. The real problem was with the hangers. That was very difficult to line up the holes on both sides in order to slip the bolt through and more to the point have it emerge on the other side. I suppose that is to be expected due to my challenged front end but I'm wondering if other folks had this experience and if so are there any tricks to it?

Also: are the hangers normally of such a width that the leaf spring plus the bushings almost doesn't fit in? I had a hell of a time with it and in fact my new bushing is half chewed off on one side of the flange as it ripped in the process. It seems the hanger could have been 2 mm wider and all would have been good. Did this perhaps happen from over tightening the bolt and squeezing the hanger? I only have the rear hangers left to do and I really really don't want to run into the same troubles. Anybody have input on this? Is there some way for a backyard mechanic to enlarge that gap a bit?

Thanks all. I thought my rear springs were super stiff Ranchos but now that I have the new bushings in at least the shackles it bounces up and down nicely. Yup, the bushings were frozen.

Cheers, Sproggy

 

[shawnfj40]

The only advice I can give is, I use lots of grease and I spread the ears apart a little bit while the spring is out. The nut going back on will pull it back together to the proper dimension.

 

[DougAustinTx]

If I recall correctly from having installed and reinstalled my springs repeatedly years ago, you don't put both ends of the bushings in when installing on the fixed hangers. The inside bushing goes in after the leaf is in place because the hole is bigger on the inside fixed hanger which allows you to insert the inner bushing after the leaf and outer bushing is already in position. I know that didn't make much sense, but that's how I remember it.

 

[sproggy]

The only advice I can give is, I use lots of grease and I spread the ears apart a little bit while the spring is out. The nut going back on will pull it back together to the proper dimension.

Shawn, yeah, I'd love to do that but what was your technique for opening them up a bit? Big hammer??

 

[sproggy]

If I recall correctly from having installed and reinstalled my springs repeatedly years ago, you don't put both ends of the bushings in when installing on the fixed hangers. The inside bushing goes in after the leaf is in place because the hole is bigger on the inside fixed hanger which allows you to insert the inner bushing after the leaf and outer bushing is already in position. I know that didn't make much sense, but that's how I remember it.

Hey Doug, I understand what you are saying. That certainly would have saved my ripped up new bushing…damn. I remember the big hole and wondered what the purpose was. Well, I have a chance on the rear hangers tomorrow to make good either following your advice or Doug's. Thanks guys.

I also was lucky enough to damage the threads on one of the front hanger pins hammering it in (since the front end is tweaked I didn't have much choice) and now I can't get the nut back on. Anyone know off the top of their heads what die I would need to clean up the threads? Or is there some other way? I will try to file the very end down a bit in the morning, it can't be too damaged.

 

[sggoat]

Hey Doug, I understand what you are saying. That certainly would have saved my ripped up new bushing…damn. I remember the big hole and wondered what the purpose was. Well, I have a chance on the rear hangers tomorrow to make good either following your advice or Doug's. Thanks guys.

I also was lucky enough to damage the threads on one of the front hanger pins hammering it in (since the front end is tweaked I didn't have much choice) and now I can't get the nut back on. Anyone know off the top of their heads what die I would need to clean up the threads? Or is there some other way? I will try to file the very end down a bit in the morning, it can't be too damaged.

Look in the FAQ under hardware-nuts and bolts--I think there is a listing for the hanger--

 

[shawnfj40]

Shawn, yeah, I'd love to do that but what was your technique for opening them up a bit? Big hammer??

I have a really big cresent wrench that I use for things like that. The BFH is always a last resort. Remember you don't need much just enough to squeeze the greased bushing in.

 

[sproggy]

I'll give it a shot. THe back SHOULD be easier as it is not twisted like the front. THanks for the help.

 

[Michael B]

Don't count on it!!!

 

[honk]

The big crescent/grease method described by Shawn above has worked for me a bunch of times. You don't need a lot maybe a total of 1/8" between the two sides.

Look for burrs or dings that might get in the way and give the insides of hangers a quick lick with a flap wheel or a file to remove any you find.

 

[too tall]

I don't think anyone mentioned a putty knife for the end that goes in the shackle . I use a putty knife between the inside of the shackle and the bushing and use it to slide the bushing past the side of the shackle .

 

[sproggy]

I don't think anyone mentioned a putty knife for the end that goes in the shackle . I use a putty knife between the inside of the shackle and the bushing and use it to slide the bushing past the side of the shackle .

Too Tall, you win the booby prize! I did indeed use a putty knife. The driver's side went in fairly easily…still a pain in the keister but easier than the front hangers, fer sure. Getting the inside hole to line up with the bolt was the hardest part and a little leverage on the spring with a tie rod puller guided the spring head into the hanger opening easily enough…it wasn't a super tight fit. The passenger side was more difficult and the hanger itself seems a little distressed/out of whack. And the spring did not remain as straight as the drivers side. The opening of the hanger was tight…and one side of the bushing was getting chewed up and in fact when I lowered the vehicle to let the spring fall into place the weight was resting on the flange of the bushing…it would not slide in. So…enter putty knife. I jacked it up again and wedged the greased knife in there and let it guide the spring/bushing into place. Bolt was still a pain but…I got it done. I had plenty of burrs and dings on that inner ring on the shackle pin…I didn't realize until finishing the last hanger, front and back, that I was dinging them up good every time with the tie rod puller when I was using it to wedge out then pins (with plenty of heat, too). Live and learn. Doug's trick on the back wouldn't have worked as I have Rancho springs and the bushing is too big to fit through that hole in the hanger.
Incidentally, what exactly is the function of the two screws on the outside of the hanger, on either side of the center pin? Yeah, I realize to hold the pin in but really, the big nut on the inside is doing that. I'm sure there's more subtlety to it….

Another question….I'm riding around with my shocks off right now as I figure out what's up with the springs (I think I'm there now with the new bushings). My question is, with shocks hooked up, the ride will only get stiffer no matter what, yes? I mean, the softest ride I'm going to get is with just the springs (and bounciest), correct? Adding even the softest ride shocks will still make it X amount stiffer no matter what…or am I wrong? My ride quality is what prompted me to change the bushings and def it has helped. However, I am still assessing the ride. I have Rancho 5000Rs all around (when hooked up). The front passenger side is blown. The rest have 30 years on them…mostly sitting in a garage. I don't want to spend money on new shocks, really….I don't have it.

Cheers folks...

 

[Fast Eddy]

I have Rancho 5000Rs all around (when hooked up).

I don't want to spend money on new shocks, really….I don't have it.

Rancho 5000s are about as stiff as you can get. Get some cheap Gabriel-made Napa shocks.

 

[sproggy]

Yeah I have heard that. Back when I bought them, when I must have been about 18, they seemed to be all the rage. This was in the 80s. It was the Rancho 6000 that was supposed to be so stiff. I suppose the one on the front passenger side is not quite so stiff anymore….

 

[4Cruisers]

Incidentally, what exactly is the function of the two screws on the outside of the hanger, on either side of the center pin? Yeah, I realize to hold the pin in but really, the big nut on the inside is doing that. I'm sure there's more subtlety to it….

Those fasteners are there to prevent the pin/plate from rotating in the hanger - they are in shear, therefore don't have to be any larger diameter than they are. The pin is in tension, and imparts a friction force at the surface between the plate and the hanger. I imagine the Toyota engineers didn't believe the friction force alone was great enough to prevent rotation. Just some of the little I remember from my structural engineering classes 40+ years ago.

 

[sproggy]

Those fasteners are there to prevent the pin/plate from rotating in the hanger - they are in shear, therefore don't have to be any larger diameter than they are. The pin is in tension.

Thanks! And if the pin rotated what would be the big deal? Well, I suppose it would eventually wear away the metal around the hanger?

 

[4Cruisers]

More than likely.

 

[Fast Eddy]

Thanks! And if the pin rotated what would be the big deal? Well, I suppose it would eventually wear away the metal around the hanger?

Surely.

 

[Brownd3max]

So, I just replaced all my bushings in the front and back leaf springs, shackles and hangers…something I had talked about in a previous post. My front end is a bit mangled due to a rough life but after some four letter words I got it done. The real problem was with the hangers. That was very difficult to line up the holes on both sides in order to slip the bolt through and more to the point have it emerge on the other side. I suppose that is to be expected due to my challenged front end but I'm wondering if other folks had this experience and if so are there any tricks to it?

Also: are the hangers normally of such a width that the leaf spring plus the bushings almost doesn't fit in? I had a hell of a time with it and in fact my new bushing is half chewed off on one side of the flange as it ripped in the process. It seems the hanger could have been 2 mm wider and all would have been good. Did this perhaps happen from over tightening the bolt and squeezing the hanger? I only have the rear hangers left to do and I really really don't want to run into the same troubles. Anybody have input on this? Is there some way for a backyard mechanic to enlarge that gap a bit?

Thanks all. I thought my rear springs were super stiff Ranchos but now that I have the new bushings in at least the shackles it bounces up and down nicely. Yup, the bushings were frozen.

Cheers, Sproggy

A little late on getting to this thread, but I just got done with replacing all 24 leaf bushings with stock replacements. What a PITA! I did find the fixed hanger ends were tougher than the shackle ends for me. The TRICK I found after jacking up the corner of the 40 I was working on to remove the weight off the leaf, was using a big crowbar to jam in between the top of the spring end and the hanger bracket, prying down to make the spring end clear the bracket, and quickly slip in the greased bushing and pin. Then to align the holes to allow the pin to go all the way in, I took my toyota jack placed horizontally between the front bumper and the tire, extended it, pushing everything rearward enuf to align the holes horizontally then prying with crowbar for vertical alignment. Whew! I'm sore today from all that!

 

[sproggy]

Yup, a lot of pulling/prying/yanking/cussing and somehow the job gets done. I do have a slightly ripped up bushing flange, however. Damn...