my fj-62 is hitting me on the head again but this time its with a trouble code. the trouble is...the code means nothing to me. anyone know what i can do to fix it myself or should i give out the money to toyota to get this thing right.
well the truck seemed and seems perfectly fine. when the light came on i was driving down the road home at about 45mph. everything seems perfectly normal. i did check slowspeed (thats actually where i got the idea to test it) but i can not interpret what they are telling me. Here is what slowdpeed.com is telling me...
circuit/system -switch condition signal diagnosis -no throttle position signal, gear selector signal, or air conditioning signal to the ecm trouble area -ac switch or circuit, ac amplifier, neutral start switch, throttle position sensor, ecm or circuit
does the trouble light stay on all the time even after the ignition switch is off? Did you hit any bumps that might have loosen a connection when you were going 45 mph? Were you playing with any switches when/before the light came on (ex. AC switch)? Does the truck run the same way it did before( at idle and at high RPM)? Is your shift lever feeling a little different (loose or tight)? Go thru you whole gears and see if the light goes off( P,R,N,D,D2,etc). Try starting your car in neutral. Look at your ECM and check for loose connectors or wires within the connectors. If your car is running fine I would just leave it alone becuase it might be a loose connection. Did you check if there is more than one code in the system. Wait for code 51 to reappear again before assuming that it is the only engine code problem. keep us updated.
as soon as i saw the engine light come on i pulled over and shut off my engine. i started it up again and the light was off. i was not playing with any switches and did not hit a bump. it runs the same as before. where do i look for the ecm so i can check the connections?
...the light came on again on my way home today. same place as last time. no bumps no switches just driving....the light did go off again after i shut her down and started her up again. same thing as last time.
how about the gear shifter? I really don't know where the ECM is placed. Is there any large electromagnetic fields being created in the area you are experiencing the activation of the check engine code( power plant, sensors on the ground, UFO's :,etc. :stupid: :dunno? I don't know what else to look at and I think it isn't hurtin your cruiser so, fo getta bout it :-/. Did you check if you got more than one engine code? just try to keep an eye on the exact location on where the check engine light comes on or the amout of time at a certain speed it takes for it to be activated. keep me updated.
i forgot to mention that. it is only one code and the code is 51. the only weird thing that ive noticed my truck doing is the parking brake light comes on when i start the truck. it stays on until i hit around 40mph. the parking brake is completely off. i think its just a crappy sensor thing. when i push the parking break down hard the light kind of dims some. piece of junk. i might just send it to toyota and tell them fix everything( engine light, parking break light, ect) but first im going to check my big toyota book for more info. hey mayeb ill find the ecm...or not
i looked in the "big book" i found the ecm. checked it out in my truck. all the connections look fine. i checked my gear shifter that too seems fine. i had it fixed a while back. some dumbass had fixed it with tie raps or something stupid like that. i had everything fixed. maybe toyota was stupid and forgot to hook a wire up?
it seems like a loose wire connected to your parking brake giving you some sort of electrical short triggering your engine code. I had an engine code go on after one of the wires in the wire harness that connects on top of the air filter got pulled back farther into the harness housing. So the harness fitted snug but a wire inside the harness was disconnected. :'( This was caused by just changing an air filter. Took me a long time find because I had other engine codes in the system.It seems that vibrations cause that short and you might be able to reproduce this situation by either shaking the parking brake with the engine is off or by reving the engine to the same RPM's while in neutral.Try those tricks to see if you can narrow down the possiblities. I think this might be related to the original fix by the dealer. I hate it when you pay good money for other people to screw thing up for you and not tell you while you could have screwed things up yourself and know. where are you located.88 fj62 w 201k in Chicago.keep me posted.
if you think it might be parking brake related. clean connectors with electronic contact cleaner. spray lubricant on all the linkages of the brake system. check for frayed or exposed wires.waiting 4 your reply.
located- folly beach sc (near charleston) 161k. thanks for advise. i just got my car alarm in today and i want all my wiring working correctly before i install the alarm. this way if i screw up i know that it was my fault and not an old problem.
so... i have scheduled with toyota to check out the parking brake and the trouble code. the toyota place here is nice, fast, and does things right. should be all done in half a day. i look forward to having everything right and knowing exactly what is wrong with my truck. i will post when i find out what the problem was.
i got my truck back and toyota didnt do much for me. they told me i need 2 new o2 sensors some shifter thing (im writing this from memory) that my parking brake line is fine, the parking brake light is fine, and that i need a front disc brake job.
this happens to be full of crap... well at leats some of it. my parking brake wiring obviously is not okay if my light comes on every time i drive. the parking brake line is not fine because another place i had taken my truck to said that the line was frade and needs to be replaces soon.
...now the front brakes are another story. i just had a full front brake job about 2 months ago. they should be perfectly fine unless... my rear drums have finally given up on me and all the weight of my truck has been stopped only by my front discs.
I hate dealers , they are so full of crap most of the time.Instead of talking to the mechanic directly you speak to some bullshitting service manager that trys to bring up the bill . If you think your truck hasn't had the O2 sensors changed for a long time(ex. rusted on nuts, same color factory connectors) you might need it changed but usually you will get trouble code also. If you want to hold out you really don't need to get that done now. This was actually my problem when I recently got multiple codes in my system. Got the sensors from oxygensensors.com and was very pleased with service(free shipping) and price ($60 each). Contact me if you want some suggestions on removal. good luck.