Troopy Side Interior Panels (1 Viewer)

[BravoCi]

Hello
I am looking at replacing the interior side panels in the rear of my troopy with some stronger wood panels.
My question is how can I fix/screw these panels back on do not want to use plastic clips.
I was thinking of using nutserts , any other ideas.
Thanks in advance for any replies

 

[mcmarshing]

I personally currently just use generic plastic inserts via Amazon (Link). Some plastic inserts are longer and should work for thicker panels of wood. They're easy, require no tools, cheap, and just work. Eventually, I plan on putting electrical accessories and hiding it behind the panels, at which point I might do the nutserts for just that panel, not all 4 individual pieces. 7.5-8mm diameter have worked best.

Otherwise, this thread, Page 7-9, Post 131 highlights using Nutserts

Builds - A Newbs "New" 1991 1HZ Troopy

 

[BravoCi]

I personally currently just use generic plastic inserts via Amazon (Link). Some plastic inserts are longer and should work for thicker panels of wood. They're easy, require no tools, cheap, and just work. Eventually, I plan on putting electrical accessories and hiding it behind the panels, at which point I might do the nutserts for just that panel, not all 4 individual pieces. 7.5-8mm diameter have worked best.

Otherwise, this thread, Page 7-9, Post 131 highlights using Nutserts

Builds - A Newbs "New" 1991 1HZ Troopy

Thanks for that.

 

[RhinoRig]

I used the rubber jack nuts at first figuring they would help isolate and prevent rubbing and squeaking. Very wrong. The rubber itself rubbed on the hole a squeaked horribly. Tightening down often put too much pressure and pulled them out. I had also put a strip of weatherstripping around the edge to isolate, but it just crushed and allowed full contact. No good either.

I swapped all for metal jack nuts and self-adhesive felt strip around the edges. Problem solved. No noise (except the rest of the truck) and the nuts are firm in place making it easier to pull the panels on/off.

 

[AndrewHadji]

I changed over to rivnuts, strong and holds whatever you need.

 

[PhillipJFrye]

I'm looking at this same project done with powder coated aluminum panels. I like the look of well nuts, which in theory would isolate all metal parts with rubber if i include metal backed rubber washers with the screws. something to ponder, i guess, and if anyone has any experience with that kind of application i'd love to hear it.

 

[BravoCi]

Thanks for the info guys. I will use nutserts and definitely use weather strip or felt on the edges to stop rattles.
The Troopy has enough rattles without adding to them. I am surprised that such a agricultural inside can rattle and squeak so much. Or maybe I have a bad one.
Although to be fair it does do a lot of dirt road corrugation driving.
Cheers
Tony

 

[RhinoRig]

I'm looking at this same project done with powder coated aluminum panels. I like the look of well nuts, which in theory would isolate all metal parts with rubber if i include metal backed rubber washers with the screws. something to ponder, i guess, and if anyone has any experience with that kind of application i'd love to hear it.

I would avoid rubber. It squeaks against metal. Just my experience. Felt is quiet. Shhhh

 

[PhillipJFrye]

I would avoid rubber. It squeaks against metal. Just my experience. Felt is quiet. Shhhh

ah, squeaks would be bad. i'm seeing also that a bunch of rubber well nuts is a lot of money compared to regular jack nuts. thanks.

 

[Honger]

I squared the holes and used cage nuts...

 

[Don Lacer]

Rivnuts! I’d go with 6mm thick or less Baltic Birch or something similar. I used 9mm and it is a little bit thick and heavy. It will also make it easier to attach the door handles.

 

[Bazz]

Additional vote for rivnuts. I found some at Napa labeled 6mm Poly Nuts.

I also second the advice against going too thick as it will make it hard to attach the door handles if you’re replacing panels there.