Trollhole carb on FJ55....2nd try...what am I doing wrong? (1 Viewer)

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After reinstalling the distributor it is essential that you verify that the oil pump drive is engaged. You would not be having problems with the hold down clam if it was all the way in. Pull the coil center wire, remove the oil pressure sender and crank the engine for 5 seconds to verify that oil is squirting out of the sender hole.
 
Pin_Head said:
After reinstalling the distributor it is essential that you verify that the oil pump drive is engaged. You would not be having problems with the hold down clam if it was all the way in. Pull the coil center wire, remove the oil pressure sender and crank the engine for 5 seconds to verify that oil is squirting out of the sender hole.
Click to expand...

Great advice...will do...thanks!!!
Ben
 
Pin_Head said:
After reinstalling the distributor it is essential that you verify that the oil pump drive is engaged. You would not be having problems with the hold down clam if it was all the way in. Pull the coil center wire, remove the oil pressure sender and crank the engine for 5 seconds to verify that oil is squirting out of the sender hole.
Click to expand...
OK...at this point I decided to just install the new troll E dizzy as the other dizzy Is suspect and pretty tired looking... So glad I took your excellent advise pinhead (btw..beers on me next time you are in Sacramento)...cranked it over...one little bulb of oil out the oil pressure send port...then nuttin...pulled her back out...here a picture of both old and new mounting clamps....look OK?...please advise before I try a re install tomorrow night.
New image-3564490130.jpg Old image-861005936.jpg Thanks! Ben
image-3564490130.jpg
image-861005936.jpg
 
I normally am adjusting the valves anyhow, so I just look for oil pumping out of the rocker holes.....

when you drop the disty in, it is easy to get one tooth off, you will notice that when you drop the disty in the rotor will rotate a bit one way when it seats, you can alter this by using a long flat head screwdriver to offset the oil pump slot a bit so that the rotor lines up just right per the fsm....
 
I grew up in Sacramento (Fruitridge Rd between Stockton and MLK Blvd) The tab on the end of the distributor must fit into the slot of the oil pump. Remember that the rotor turns CCW as the distributor drops down, so you have to start about 30 degrees ahead of where you need to end up.
 
Pin_Head said:
I grew up in Sacramento (Fruitridge Rd between Stockton and MLK Blvd) The tab on the end of the distributor must fit into the slot of the oil pump. Remember that the rotor turns CCW as the distributor drops down, so you have to start about 30 degrees ahead of where you need to end up.
Click to expand...

Small world isn't it???? Feel free to stop by any time you are back in town...would be glad to meet you in person!

Thanks again for the advise and tips.

Will report back tomorrow night!!

Cheers,
Ben
 
1973Guppie said:
I normally am adjusting the valves anyhow, so I just look for oil pumping out of the rocker holes..... when you drop the disty in, it is easy to get one tooth off, you will notice that when you drop the disty in the rotor will rotate a bit one way when it seats, you can alter this by using a long flat head screwdriver to offset the oil pump slot a bit so that the rotor lines up just right per the fsm....
Click to expand...

Nice! Good stuff...I've got some good ammo to attack this tomorrow eve! Learning a bunch in the process as well...thanks again. Ben
 
Casey E said:
Man I keep looking at your pics , what's up with the 3 fuel filters ?
Click to expand...

Ha Ha..the two before the fuel pump were there from the PO ....I added the one after fuel pump when I replaced the hard fuel line...the hard line was severely corroded inside and chunks of debris were everywhere...wanted to make sure nothing was going to be fouling up the new carb...will correct after I can get it running...please note this vehicle has not run or been registered since or had working electrical since 96....so far I have completely fixed all the electrical, added new carb and now the new dizzy...in the hopes of it driving down the road again....
 
Casey E said:
In that pic your idle wire is not hooked up . I'm sure you have hooked that up by now , but if not ,that could definitely be the problem .
Click to expand...

wanted to show my parents how well my engine ran.... cranked cranked cranked... couldn't get it to fire... my dad shouts... hey there a lot of gas coming out here!

(no return line so the fuel over filled the bowl and started coming out the throttle linkage at the bottom of the carb....)

realized i didn't have the idle solenoid connected like a dumbass.... let it sit for an hour while I recharged the battery and it fired right up.

Don't forget the idle solenoid!
 
OK...got the new troll E dizzy in and I believe the oil pump is engaged correctly....but now I'm paranoid.....

1. How much oil should I see pumping out the oil pressure sensor hole when turning it over?...I'm getting a trickle but not a huge stream etc.
2. Does my 71 have an igniter and do I need to unhook it now that I've gone e dizzy?
3. Can anyone point me to info or a thread on how to set the initial timing when installing a new distributor on a car that doesn't run?..lol

Thanks in advance,
Ben
 
Initial timing: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-seri...ngine-need-help-w-initial-timing-startup.html

71 did not come with an igniter, but you don't have a 71 dizzy.
If there's an igniter in there for some reason, remove it. The e-dizzy has a little igniter in it.
If you have a bypass resistor, you'll have to do something.
If you want to keep your coil and resistor then connect ignition 12v to one end of the resistor and the other end to the coil positive. Then connect the dizzy red wire to the 12v end of the resistor and the dizzy black to the coil negative.
I'd replace the coil with one meant to run at full 12v. Then you just hook red to coil + and black to coil -.
 
If oil is coming out when you crank the engine you are good to go. No oil, no good.
 
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