Trollhole carb on FJ55....2nd try...what am I doing wrong? (1 Viewer)

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Hello guys...ok...here is the long story short:

1971 FJ55 stock F motor

Would run and start with original carb but wouldn't stay running...old and tired.

Read so many good things here about the troll hole carb I ordered one to throw on...

First one had issues...would start with starting fluid...run for 20 sec...then die...fuel loaded up half way in the glass window which I've heard is way too much....drained fuel from bowl...used a paperclip per Troll to move the float up and down to make sure it wasn't stuck...same deal...would start with starting fluid....then die...window loaded up with gas again...

PT2

So...troll sent me another carb to replace the first one...got it installed....DEJA VU...same s*** is happening again....exactly...fires for 15-20 sec with starting fluid and then once the bowl loads up with gas it won't run....

What the hell is going on?...so frustrated with this...I heard from many others this carb should just drop on and work....two failures at this point...any advice and thoughts are greatly appreciated....

Side note...I have not touch one adjustment on the carb and 100 % positive there is pristine gas going in...drained tank...new fuel filters before and after fuel pump for good measure....no debris at all when draining bowl from carb...

Thanks!
Benjamin
 
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I posted in the 55 stye...there is a 12 volt solenoid that gets power when the key is on to open an idle circuit. without it, no idley...there should be a wire or pair of wires coming from the solenoid located at the left rear upper corner of the carb when looking at it, standing in front of the radiator. that guy needs to get power from an ignition ON source. if the wire is hooked up, then check it, you may have a bad connection somewhere or a blown fuse...HTH
 
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One wire. Turn on the ignition, then connect and disconnect the wire and listen for the click.

Yep...click is there...even ran a home run from the battery just to be sure....still the same...even drained the bowl again and blew it out with compressed air...nuttin...
 

65swb45

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Did Marshall have anything to say about the carburetor you sent back?

Also curious what your vacuum reading and idle speed are for the run duration.

Best

Mark
 
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Did Marshall have anything to say about the carburetor you sent back? Also curious what your vacuum reading and idle speed are for the run duration. Best Mark

Hi Mark,

The first is on its way back now....not sure on the vacuum...but when it fires on spray it's high rpm for the whole duration and then dies straight away.

Thanks,
Ben
 

65swb45

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High RPMs are not typical for any carb, not even Marshalls. And I'm sure he didn't ship it with the idle turned up. Do you have a return spring to keep the idle down? Accel cable properly slacked at idle?

Since you suspect overfilling, have you tried looking down the ventures while it's running to see if you can see gas coming out the bowl vents before it dies?

Best

Mark
 
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High RPMs are not typical for any carb, not even Marshalls. And I'm sure he didn't ship it with the idle turned up. Do you have a return spring to keep the idle down? Accel cable properly slacked at idle? Since you suspect overfilling, have you tried looking down the ventures while it's running to see if you can see gas coming out the bowl vents before it dies? Best Mark

Gotcha....I need to check on the return spring...maybe it's hooked up incorrectly?..someone please point me to a picture of the correct hookup if possible....by the time I get it running and back to the engine bay it has died...I may need a helper for checking the bowl vents...

Thanks for all your input..I greatly appreciate it.

Ben
 

1973Guppie

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I would check to see if it runs with throttle applied (ie: jets squirting) vs. no throttle, that way you know it is an idle solenoid issue vs. a whole carb issue. Also double check your timing.
 
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I would check to see if it runs with throttle applied (ie: jets squirting) vs. no throttle, that way you know it is an idle solenoid issue vs. a whole carb issue. Also double check your timing.

Does not run with throttle applied either...no difference with foot on pedal or not....nothing while held to the floor either.

Thx,
Ben
 
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Seems to me that there was a problem prior to you replacing the carb.. If you are getting spark, how is your timing? Have you messed with the dizzy at all?
 
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Seems to me that there was a problem prior to you replacing the carb.. If you are getting spark, how is your timing? Have you messed with the dizzy at all?

Possibly...but it at least ran with your foot on the gas feathering it with the old tired original carb...The fact that it starts right up with starting fluid means its gotta be getting spark...the entire ignition system has new wires plugs etc...I have not messed with the dizzy...have a Troll E-dizzy in the box waiting to go in...didn't want to mess with that till I get it to a point where it runs for more than 5-10 sec:p...haven't checked the timing as it won't run long enough to get a reading:wrench:

Thanks,
Ben
 

1973Guppie

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I would start from square one on this one if it were me. Pull the dizzy and reinstall to ensure your timing is right as well as pull the valve cover and double check all the valve adjustments. Logically you have been through 3 carbs, so something else might be going on so I would double check everything else first. Just my 2 cents.
 

1973Guppie

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Possibly...but it at least ran with your foot on the gas feathering it with the old tired original carb...The fact that it starts right up with starting fluid means its gotta be getting spark...the entire ignition system has new wires plugs etc...I have not messed with the dizzy...have a Troll E-dizzy in the box waiting to go in...didn't want to mess with that till I get it to a point where it runs for more than 5-10 sec:p...haven't checked the timing as it won't run long enough to get a reading:wrench:

Thanks,
Ben

I had this exact same situation before. My timing was off. I was getting the car to fire using starter fluid but no fire with gas. I am guessing that there is some spark at "somewhat" the right timing thus causing the more combustible starter fluid to flash vs. gas. Once I got the timing right it ran great.

Just my thoughts, I could be way wrong though, not the first time. :) HTH, Noah
 
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I had this exact same situation before. My timing was off. I was getting the car to fire using starter fluid but no fire with gas. I am guessing that there is some spark at "somewhat" the right timing thus causing the more combustible starter fluid to flash vs. gas. Once I got the timing right it ran great.

Just my thoughts, I could be way wrong though, not the first time. :) HTH, Noah

Hi Noah,

I agree...good advise and I will try this...especially if you have had the same issue....at this point I'm sure it's definitely a step in the right direction...

Thanks to you and everyone else for the help...it's greatly appreciated...I'm dying to get this thing running so I can get the brake and light inspection done...and them move on to all the rust issues...LOL....:hmm:
 

1973Guppie

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Hi Noah,

I agree...good advise and I will try this...especially if you have had the same issue....at this point I'm sure it's definitely a step in the right direction...

Thanks to you and everyone else for the help...it's greatly appreciated...I'm dying to get this thing running so I can get the brake and light inspection done...and them move on to all the rust issues...LOL....:hmm:

sure thing, hope you have an fsm, it outlines nicely how to reinstall the dizzy correctly with everything pointed in the right direction. You should be able to pull the clutch plate inspection cover and rotate the flywheel with the help of some good leather gloves. I normally paint the BB with some white paint while I have it off. Line it all up, adjust the valves, and make sure the disty is in correctly. You can manually check for top dead center by putting your little finger in the 1st plug hole and feeling it as it comes up and down as you turn the flywheel (a little at a time or have a friend help rotate it slowly). Find that TDC and go from there, good luck.....
 
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What the hell is going on?...so frustrated with this...

What about the choke? Throw away the starting fluid; you don't need it. Set the choke and crank. You need to choke a cold engine. It should start as soon as fuel gets in the bowl and it should run at 1200 RPM until you take off the choke after it warms up. As long as the fuel level stays at approximately half, you won't have any fuel running out of the vent tubes.
 

JohnnyC

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I am also going to throw this out there ... Take some pictures so the carb guys here can see if all is hooked up correctly... Does the TH carb have a return fuel line as well as fuel line? Are they hooked correctly
 

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