triple stick shifters (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Oct 17, 2005
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Location
Placerville, CA
My first attempt at my t-case shifters. I needed to relocate the toybox shifter because it will be under my fuel tank.

The traditional twin stick works fine, but the toybox shifter is very hard. I am working on another idea that may work better. If not i'll just use this set up.

Has anyone had any luck setting up something similar?
triple stick 015.jpg
triple stick 016.jpg
triple stick 017.jpg
 
very nice, looks like an SM465-to-marlin-to-splitcase rig? I'll bet that thing will just idle over the worst terrain. Wish I could offer you some insight into your problem, but I'm eager to see your finished project in action!
 
Mine is an NP203-19 spline...
Here are pics for reference. Its about the same as you did though.
I need to shorten the throws on the 203 and H-N-L on the 19 spline. Talked with Georg about this, and he said that I need to move the linkage closer to the pivot on the respective boxes.
001 (4).jpg
002 (3).JPG
003 (3).JPG
 
Nice work both of you guys! I bought some material to start fabbing mine up and like to see how others have done it.

Chicago, do you have any closer pictures of how you connected to the 2/4wd selector shaft? Did you weld that bracket to it? Mine is the stock one like yours so I am trying to come up with ideas on how to connect to it as my levers will be a ways forward too.


Thanks,

Steve


Mine is an NP203-19 spline...
Here are pics for reference. Its about the same as you did though.
I need to shorten the throws on the 203 and H-N-L on the 19 spline. Talked with Georg about this, and he said that I need to move the linkage closer to the pivot on the respective boxes.
 
Nice work both of you guys! I bought some material to start fabbing mine up and like to see how others have done it.

Chicago, do you have any closer pictures of how you connected to the 2/4wd selector shaft? Did you weld that bracket to it? Mine is the stock one like yours so I am trying to come up with ideas on how to connect to it as my levers will be a ways forward too.


Thanks,

Steve

Steve. Im sorry, I do not have any pics of how I attached to the selector shaft, and I did weld it to the shaft. Its actually just tacked on there right now untill I can pull the tub off again and get a good burn on it. I made a tab out of 1/4 in steel (follow me here) so I made PART of the tab so it will slot into the existing notch on the t case selector and the rest of the tab that I made protrudes off the END of the t case selector. I drilled a hole in the end part of the bracket and attached my heim to that.

Ill snap a pic when I can...Kind hard to describe, but when you see a pic, youll understand. So essentially the tab I made runs along the top part of the shaft on edge and sticks out off the front for the connection. I just cut the tab so it drops down into the keyed section on the shaft for more purchase.

Hope that makes sense.

Keith
 
Keith,

It makes perfect sense. Now I can better visualize what I saw in your picture above.

I have been thinking of a removable mount instead of a permenant one. I plan to use a short piece of tube that will slip over the shaft. I will have a tab welded to the front of the tube for the linkage to bolt to. This will act as a stop for bottoming the tube on the shaft. Then I'll weld on a nut to the side of the tube and run a bolt in to clamp up the tube in the slot area. The bolt will be at the front end of the slot so it acts to keep the tube from sliding forward on the shaft.

Does that make sense? I hope to start on the shifter this weekend, time permitting.



Steve. Im sorry, I do not have any pics of how I attached to the selector shaft, and I did weld it to the shaft. Its actually just tacked on there right now untill I can pull the tub off again and get a good burn on it. I made a tab out of 1/4 in steel (follow me here) so I made PART of the tab so it will slot into the existing notch on the t case selector and the rest of the tab that I made protrudes off the END of the t case selector. I drilled a hole in the end part of the bracket and attached my heim to that.

Ill snap a pic when I can...Kind hard to describe, but when you see a pic, youll understand. So essentially the tab I made runs along the top part of the shaft on edge and sticks out off the front for the connection. I just cut the tab so it drops down into the keyed section on the shaft for more purchase.

Hope that makes sense.

Keith
 
My first attempt at my t-case shifters. I needed to relocate the toybox shifter because it will be under my fuel tank.

The traditional twin stick works fine, but the toybox shifter is very hard. I am working on another idea that may work better. If not i'll just use this set up.

Has anyone had any luck setting up something similar?



Make the Toybox lever come out towards the passenger side of the gearbox and then drop down a few inches; (picture an 'L' shape on the shifter) you will get your leverage back and not get into the body.

Do not use thin material for the shifter control lever and you will not have to worry about deflection.

This would also get rid of those horrible angles you are trying to overcome using rod ends.

:meh:
 
The reason it is harder to shift is because you are using very little mechanical advantage . It would probably be better if you could just offset the shifter directly on the Toybox.

Offset Shifter Modification | Marlin Crawler, Inc.

Thanks for the input. I have seen the offset shifters and i am going to make one with a 4" offset to try. I will have to install it with the case lowered before i mount the crossmember but i think a 4" offset with a forward angle may work.

I also experimented with a linkage system that takes the angle out of the equation. It was basically a length of tubing across the back of the 465. The shift lever connected to a tab on the bottom of one end of the tube and the toybox shifter connected to a tab on the other end of the tube. Each tab was inline and by placing the rodends in the right place, it increasd the leverage needed. It worked well at first but became increasingly sloppy. I liked the idea but it willl need some work.
 
Keith,

It makes perfect sense. Now I can better visualize what I saw in your picture above.

I have been thinking of a removable mount instead of a permenant one. I plan to use a short piece of tube that will slip over the shaft. I will have a tab welded to the front of the tube for the linkage to bolt to. This will act as a stop for bottoming the tube on the shaft. Then I'll weld on a nut to the side of the tube and run a bolt in to clamp up the tube in the slot area. The bolt will be at the front end of the slot so it acts to keep the tube from sliding forward on the shaft.

Does that make sense? I hope to start on the shifter this weekend, time permitting.

Totally. I had started down that road, but I didnt feel like tracking down the perfect sized tube to slip over the shaft....Love the idea though. I think that is how orange fj45's kit is set up. Might wanna hit him up for that piece...

hijack over...

Sorry!
 
I had my triple stick make with 3/16 plate where the rods pivot. After seeing a AA twin stick I made them with 1/2 plate. It's way more laterally stable.

1/2 in!!?!?!?!?! whoa!
Did you have issues with the 3/16 being flimsy? Im concerned about this with the 1/2 in rod that i used. Thinking about running a gusset of sorts after I get the bend that I like for this reason.
i was nit diggin the play on the shifter spindle (what the shifters ride on. So I made a brakcet to support the outer end and its nice and sturdy now. Used a shaft collar for the bolt to run through.
 
https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-...6-gumbys-1973-fj55-buildup-5.html#post4105683

The 1/2 round stock I used is fine. The 1/2 plate keeps them square on the spindle. 3/16 had too much wobble and a spirited shift would bend them.

AAAAAH... i see what youre sayin now. I thought you made the HANDLES out of 1/2 plate. Got it now.
Did you run a bearing or anything inside to ride on?
I used a bronze bearing hoping that would help, but I have yet to actaully try it.:eek:
 
i gotta do the same thing, where did youse guys get all the goodies to make it happen? ball joints, shafts, linkages, etc? for some reason i'd rather build the give good ol advanced adapters yet more of my money.not that AA hasn't treated me well, but i'm a cheapskate and could do a decent job of fabbing myself. good stuff here though....i like what ya'll have done!
 
i gotta do the same thing, where did youse guys get all the goodies to make it happen? ball joints, shafts, linkages, etc? for some reason i'd rather build the give good ol advanced adapters yet more of my money.not that AA hasn't treated me well, but i'm a cheapskate and could do a decent job of fabbing myself. good stuff here though....i like what ya'll have done!

The little heims I got from Summit racing. They have varying sizes. The ones that I have currently are 3/8's, but I may upsize to 1/2 in just in case sort of thing. Ill be re visiting this area shortly to make all the final adjustments. I spent a LOOOONG time on this and HAD to move on for my sanity sake.
As far as the sleeves, bushings and weird bolts and fittings...local ace hardware has the BEST SELECTION of that stuff. Id have to assume there would be one near you. If you havent checked it out. DO IT! You too will fall in LOVE with that place.

Stated like a TRUE CHEAP SKATE! Im the EXACT SAME to a fault.:deadhorse::D
 
My first attempt at my t-case shifters. I needed to relocate the toybox shifter because it will be under my fuel tank.

The traditional twin stick works fine, but the toybox shifter is very hard. I am working on another idea that may work better. If not i'll just use this set up.

Has anyone had any luck setting up something similar?

So... dredging up this thread... have you come up with a solid solution? I have a pending Toybox/H55/Split TC install in my 60 and want to locate the toybox shifter forward...

I'll probably go with a Georg Twin Stick for the TC plus ? for the Toybox..?
 

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