Trim Painting (1 Viewer)

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Cleans pretty easily, power washer at the car wash gets 95% off. No need to dry since you don't get water spots. Scratches, ya it's got some and there's not much you can do. I don't particularly care about any of the trail scratches but the one idiot who smacked my door last winter when my truck was covered with the crap they put on the highway gave it a nice vertical section of 1" horizontals scratches.

Hasn't peeled or anything else yet. It was done last election, so 4 years now.
 
Did my this summer as they looked terrible. Washed, sanded with 400 and 600 grit, cleaned, taped, primed, spayed and clear coated. Maybe $50 in materials and 4 hours of time. Held up well thus far to heat, humidity, dirt and the car wash. While not factory it looks very good and no regrets whatsover.
 
Blue painters tape, tons of elbow grease sanding and 6 coats of $8 Rust-o-leum silver metallic spray paint and my '05 looks great. My local body shop quoted $500 to repaint just the center strip where the clear coat was peeling.

If it fades or peels off in a couple of years, then another $8 and a weekend afternoon will take care of it.
 
Here's a pic of mine after they were sprayed. Wish I had taken some close ups before I did them. They looked terrible; really made the whole ride look junky.

I'm surprised how well scratches, dents, and dings in the moldings smoothed out with the 400 and 600 grit.

By the way, I know I have the stink bug thing going on. I need to level it out...
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Just wanted to share - finally after years of looking at the splotchy and faded center side molding trims, ordered the base and clear coat aerosol spray cans from Automotivetouchup.com Touch Up Paint, Aerosol Spray Paint and Touchup Paint Accessories | AutomotiveTouchup | 888-710-5192 to match my '99:

Description: 12 oz Aerosol Spray Paint, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser: Riverock Green Mica 1C3

Taped the centers, sanded with 220 grit then some Simple Green, wiped with damp paper towels then dry, then a micro cloth. Used Rustoleum gray primer then sanded after a couple hours with 600 grit. Wiped-down again.

Three coats base paint, three coats of clearcoat.

Just done two days ago so we'll see how it holds-up.

In a couple of weeks I think I'll tackle the front and rear bumper corners where I've got some scraps and chips.

Don't know if you can tell from the pictures, but the color matches the body exactly, it's a bit of a different shade from the "outside" of the plastic trim. The slight contrast looks good IMHO.

Got back from a Utah trip last week with only a few dings added to the sliders and a piece of trim needing repair (and a whole lot of cleaning too).

Phx99Cruiser, did you get all of your trim painted with one aerosol paint can (and then one can of clear)?

How is it holding up?

Thanks.

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Also, does anyone have an idea on the thickness of the foam tape I should purchase for this job?

My FSM was no help on this one.

Thanks again.

I just bought the tiny piece of trim behind the one you're missing, and it had the tape on it.
 
That's the tape I used to refasten one of my side trim pieces after breaking it loose. It's holding perfectly so far...
 
Got back from a Utah trip last week with only a few dings added to the sliders and a piece of trim needing repair (and a whole lot of cleaning too).

Phx99Cruiser, did you get all of your trim painted with one aerosol paint can (and then one can of clear)?

How is it holding up?

Thanks.

Yes - I recall not needing more than one can of paint and one can of clearcoat. I did purchase more at the time as I still need to to my bumper corners...weather's turning nice so maybe I should knock that out in the next couple of weeks :hmm:

It's holding up well, looks just like when I applied it. Very happy with it.
 
GaFJC and Deltapine1 what white did you guys use to match the white body color? Epoxy paint and epoxy clear coat? Did you just choose a close match at the store or did you have Napa mix you up an exact match in a couple cans? Both trucks look good! I have to also do the fender flares on mine...errr. Would love to remove the flares but they've rubbed significant scratches in the body since the PO never removed them.
 
GaFJC and Deltapine1 what white did you guys use to match the white body color? Epoxy paint and epoxy clear coat? Did you just choose a close match at the store or did you have Napa mix you up an exact match in a couple cans? Both trucks look good! I have to also do the fender flares on mine...errr. Would love to remove the flares but they've rubbed significant scratches in the body since the PO never removed them.



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These are the products I used early last summer, purchased from Advance Auto. They didn't have the quantities in stock but were happy to order them in for me. For a rattle can job it came out far better than I hoped. 99% of people wouldn't know it wasn't OEM.

Take time with the prep; buy some 400 and 600 grit sand paper. Blue painters tape will slide in between the trim piece and the respective body panel. Take your time and let each coat dry properly before the next.

My 100 isn't garaged and not washed every month and the rattle can has held up very well.

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I took on this project tonight and made a pretty good mess on the driver side...oh well. I'll be busy tomorrow.
 
I took on this project tonight and made a pretty good mess on the driver side...oh well. I'll be busy tomorrow.

Whenever mine gets scratched badly, or faded. I sand down the area and spray dark primer to help fade into the surrounding paint. Apply three light coats allowing 30 minutes of drying between. Always looks perfect after.
 
Where are the runs and drips? Body panel or body molding?
 
Sand with fine grit, no need to primer again if you don't sand too much.

Post a few pictures when you're done!

Exactly, just be patient and use very fine sandpaper. 220 is likely too rough. Go 400. Be patient applying the paint coats also. I'm the king of drips with the rattle can but didn't have any on my 100 molding.
 

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