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Tried Cleaning the stock 80 filter

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by IdahoDoug, Nov 9, 2003.

  1. IdahoDoug

    IdahoDoug

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    Well, started by rinsing it from the inside to the outside with warm water. Got a bit of the easier stuff out - small vegetable matter, some feathers, etc. Then dunked it into a bucket of warm soapy water (dawn liquid) for 30 mins with gentl agitation. Pouring this out, I was amazed as the amount of fine black stuff that came out. Repeated this twice and on the last rinse not much more came out. So, its drying now.

    One bummer is that the pleats did not hold their shape well and many have become wavy or wobbly in appearance. Using the water, I could move them back and forth, so I straightened them up a bit. Now, the filter is drying, so it could take up to a day as nothing more will drip out of it, though I can feel at least a pound of water is trapped in there. CDan and I suspect this was not a Toyota unit, so a proper OEM might tolerate cleaning better.

    My hope that it would be servicable again are dashed. Pleat displacement has left ares that would get high flow for a while, then plug before having filtration take place broadly across it's media surface. But I'll keep it on hand in the event Mt. Rainier blows and we get caught by the ash plume before getting the loaded 80 out of town. This area got over a foot of ash from St. Helens and people tell me an air filter would quickly clog. So it would at least get us out of town and heading East ahead of the plume.

    DougM (fessing up the REAL reason he wants a back-up air filter.
     
  2. Jonathan_Ferguson

    Jonathan_Ferguson ★ is in the wrong locale SILVER Star

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  3. scottm

    scottm

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    Hey bro, I'm getting bogged down with filter research. I'm tring to use a vacuum loader in a desiccant transfer machine. Conair sales guy said it'd work, now Conair tech guy says they've tried for years to use them to load their own desiccant dryers but the filters always plug - grrrr. The machine is nearly built, so I've got to make it work, so much filter monkeying ahead. I'm getting K&N involved, and looking at prefilters. This stuff is like talcum (volcano ash?), would a prefilter work? If so you should keep one on hand for ash.
     
  4. e9999

    e9999 You want to do what...? Moderator

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    eh, I like to experiment too. Washed a paper filter for a shop vac for about the last 10 yrs, at least once a year. Finally gave the ghost with some of the pleats splitting. Dang, $15 to replace... Hope i get another 10 yrs out of that one. <G>
    So it is possible...
    E
     
  5. george_tlc

    george_tlc SILVER Star

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    Hmm - I may be wrong - but I think that Toyota has different filters for the 80 and one of those is the paper one we get here in the US. I'm pretty sure that in oz (other places too?) you can get a different filter than can be washed a few times. This is going from 'memory' from quite a few yrs back when this subject came up on 80scool so may just be my :whoops:.

    george s
     
  6. IdahoDoug

    IdahoDoug

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    Scott, what about a water filter? Where the vacuum's drawing through a chamber of water. The water bubbles up and the dessicant gets caught in the water, which can be filtered and reused. Depending on how high a flow, it would be fine (high flow would be a problem). Though I don't know what water content would be added to the air, and since you're working with a dessicant......

    On the ash strategy, I think I'd try to be out of here by the time the plume arrives as I'll get plenty of warning. Holmass has agreed to call me just before the plume annihilates Seattle so I'll know it's time to pack up and drop the hammer. Supposedly there's an area out there that's bulging a bit. Glad I climbed it before the top thousand feet or so disappears :D

    The dust cup in the 80 seems to do an excellent job of trapping a talcum - like particle, and from what people describe, the ash was more coarse than that - like very fine sand. So, should deal with the stuff well. You can see it in some areas around here - up to a foot thick.

    I think the best strategy would be to have a spare filter on hand while exiting the area. Of course if you stay in the stuff, I don't know there's any way to avoid serious engine damage. My filter is still soggy after 24 hours sitting on a heater vent.
     
  7. Jonathan_Ferguson

    Jonathan_Ferguson ★ is in the wrong locale SILVER Star

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    I would'nt worry about the Air Filter in an area with Bush Fires, As the HZJ78 and 79 use the same Air Filter(A340) which are a very common Fire Truck for small towns in Australia. :cheers:
     
  8. scottm

    scottm

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    [quote author=IdahoDoug link=board=2;threadid=7287;start=msg61066#msg61066 date=1068435975]more coarse than that - like very fine sand.
    [/quote]

    Prefilters I've seen so far are like a foam sleeve around the paper filter. Our welder builds and races cars on dirt track, uses them. I just cleaned the one on my lawn mower yesterday. Some are like fine nylon mesh. You could make or buy one, keep it near the filter in the engine compartment.

    Yeah, about half the guys in the shop came up with the water-bong suggestion, even offered to bring in an example. The main reason they need this machine is to keep moisture from getting to the desiccant, better stay away from water. I did find out the blower & motor assy is made in Ohio, widely available, cheap, held in by one screw. I'll probably just make it a wear item and let it plug up.
     
  9. DanKunz

    DanKunz SILVER Star

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    I have a "dry-charger" for my K&N as I do not trust the standalone filtration it provides.

    I have been VERY pleased with the dry charger as it is black, VERY fine mesh and I can visually confirm that it is catching very fine particles prior to hitting the oiled filter.

    After running it for ~1000 miles now I checked my throttle body and it is 90% cleaner than the last time I was in there without the dry charger.

    .02 spent!