Tricks for removing Exhaust Manifold Rings & Springs & Studs... (1 Viewer)

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Anyone got any tips/tricks for removing the rings and springs on the horns on the exhaust manifold? I've got new rings and springs to install and all the horns do is spin around...and around...and...around...

How about tips/tricks for removing the 3 studs on the bottom of the exhaust manifold that fasten the exhaust downpipe?

Thx.
 
for studs, use a stud puller/installer tool, or use 2 nuts torqued together as tight as you can get em on the stud and use a wrench to spin the stud lefty lucy. I used a deadblow hammer to remove my horns, just be carefull to not get them cocked so far in their bores that they damage their bores. might hone out the bore a hair in order to give the new rings something clean to seat on...
 

kinda hard to for pics on the exhaust horn with rings and springs...

see #s 15 and 16...they hold the two outer exhaust manifold 'horns' to the rest of the exhaust manifold...

exhaust manifold rings springs.jpg
 
they only get the horns stuck to the mani after years of use and some rust...think of the rings and springs as compression rings on a piston.....
 
for studs, use a stud puller/installer tool, or use 2 nuts torqued together as tight as you can get em on the stud and use a wrench to spin the stud lefty lucy. I used a deadblow hammer to remove my horns, just be carefull to not get them cocked so far in their bores that they damage their bores. might hone out the bore a hair in order to give the new rings something clean to seat on...

Cool. Thanks Lambcrusher.

On the studs (I like to be the only stud in my vehicle...so all the rest must go...), I didn't know there was such a thing as a stud puller/installer tool. I usually use the 2 nut trick, but didn't work on the first stud...stripped the head on one of the nuts (ouch..!).

On the rings/springs, I can't even see the buggers. Is the proper way to use some sort of spanner (like for snap rings)? Dead blow just pops that ring over those rigs...one by one...?
 
they only get the horns stuck to the mani after years of use and some rust...think of the rings and springs as compression rings on a piston.....

well, i've got new rings and springs...was going to split the manifolds to do the heat riser and gaskets anyways...so I'm in that typical mechanics dilemma...to try that additional fix (original problem was the intake exhaust manifold gasket to the head)...and possible open a can of worms?

Think I'll work on the studs first and let you guys come up with philosophical arguments on my best option while I practice my swear words...
 
Are you trying to remove the horns from the manifold or get the rings out of the grooves on the horns? The dead blow hammer method I think is for separating the horns from the manifold. To remove the rings/springs from the horns, the rings are split. find the opening and use something to pry the two ends apart. They make snap ring pliers that work this way, but the pliers might be too big to fit into the tight gap. get a little screw driver in there, then twist it. Once it opens up enough, slip one end out of the groove.
 
Are you trying to remove the horns from the manifold or get the rings out of the grooves on the horns? The dead blow hammer method I think is for separating the horns from the manifold. To remove the rings/springs from the horns, the rings are split. find the opening and use something to pry the two ends apart. They make snap ring pliers that work this way, but the pliers might be too big to fit into the tight gap. get a little screw driver in there, then twist it. Once it opens up enough, slip one end out of the groove.

Thx mbb...yeah, first trying to get the rings and springs out, then separating the horns and reinstall with new rings/springs...

I was thinking the same...must be a way to get at the ring to widen it enough to slide the horn out or remove the ring completely, then slide the horn out...

And if I get those rings/springs off, not quite sure the best order to reinstall the new ones. Maybe the spring goes back on with the horn, then after the horn/spring slides back on the rest of the exhaust manifold, then snap the ring...
...or maybe install the ring on the horn (so that it is towards the outside end of the horn) then spring (so it will be on the inside end, held into place by the ring) then 'persuade' the horn back into the exhaust manifold?
 
beat the horns out, remove rings and springs, install new rings and springs, hone horn bores on manifold body, install horns...you can't/don't remove rings and springs before getting the horns out...does that help?
 
beat the horns out, remove rings and springs, install new rings and springs, hone horn bores on manifold body, install horns...you can't/don't remove rings and springs before getting the horns out...does that help?

Yep. Thanks for the clarification Lambcrusher.
 
& install the two new rings on the manifold "horn" so that the gaps are 180º opposed from each other. EDIT[ & for others who might end up doing this, spraying rust release penetrating oil in the gap of the horn and manifold makes removing it MUCH easier].

manifold horn ring.jpg


Spring:
spring.jpg
 
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Ahhh I see what you guys are talking about now, I've never had to play that game before.
 
& install the two new rings on the manifold "horn" so that the gaps are 180º opposed from each other. EDIT[ & for others who might end up doing this, spraying rust release penetrating oil in the gap of the horn and manifold makes removing it MUCH easier]

Sweet. Thanks for the picture and info, OS! That really helps...I was just going to post up and ask about where the springs went...because I got the horns off, but see only one ring on each horn (so each horn has an open groove where there is neither a ring nor a spring). So I was wondering if the springs had disintegrated...but it appears that the springs are underneath each of the rings.

So, if I understand you correctly, Output, you recommend leaving my old springs and rings installed in their grooves and install my new springs and rings in the empty grooves, so that, in total, each horn will have two sets of springs and rings...right? And make sure that the groove on the new ring is 180 offset from the old one on that horn.

And then to reinstall the horns? Just tap 'em back in with a rubber mallet?
 
Ahhh I see what you guys are talking about now, I've never had to play that game before.

Rings and springs...springs and rings...

They were hidden! Had to tap out the horns first in order to see them!
 
Just an update on the studs...used stud extractor tool... thanks @LAMBCRUSHER !

All three manifold to down pipe studs removed...only 1 broke...drill and helicoil to keep the M10x1.25 stud size/thread.

Both j-pipe (exhaust manifold to EGR cooler) studs removed...only 1 broke...drill and helicoil to keep the M8x1.25 stud size/thread.
 
Are you trying to remove the horns from the manifold or get the rings out of the grooves on the horns? The dead blow hammer method I think is for separating the horns from the manifold. To remove the rings/springs from the horns, the rings are split. find the opening and use something to pry the two ends apart. They make snap ring pliers that work this way, but the pliers might be too big to fit into the tight gap. get a little screw driver in there, then twist it. Once it opens up enough, slip one end out of the groove.

@2mbb , I'm thinking of leaving the old spring/ring set ups (when I removed the horns, each horn had 1 groove filled...and according to Output Shaft, the spring is underneath the ring occupying the same groove as the ring) and installing a new spring/ring set in the empty groove for each horn. So I'll have 2 spring/ring sets for each horn...good idea or bad idea?
 
Since the horns are off, it would be best to replace all the springs and rings. A set of 2 per horn. One spring and one ring per groove total.
If the old rings don't seat correctly, the exhaust will leak past them and then you will have to listen to an exhaust manifold leak for another 10 years. Replace them.

Never throw any FJ60 part away if it is at all usable. There is no telling when it will be discontinued.... and the next time around there may not be any new parts available.

And as Lambcusher mentioned, clean out the bores and the ring grooves. 1000 grit sand paper wet sanded with some penetrating rust releasing oil (pb blaster, liquid wrench or similar) really helps to knock down the rust to ensure that the rings have a nice surface on which to seat.

If nothing appeared to be in one of the grooves when the horn was removed, install one new spring and one new ring per groove. There should not be an empty groove when reinstalling the horn. Yes, the ring gaps ideally should be 180º apart but who really knows if you would notice the difference if installed otherwise?

The delicate spring goes under the stronger square shaped ring.

The horn (with the new springs and rings) can be installed by using the rust releasing oil spray to help lubricate the insertion (did I just say that?). Compress the ring with your fingers or a soft tool (wood) so that you don't scratch it, and wiggle the horn into the manifold. If the manifold and horn were cleaned up, the horn should insert into it's mate without a struggle. You shouldn't need to use a mallet to get it where it needs to be.
 
You shouldn't need to use a mallet to get it where it needs to be.

Cool...thanks for the detailed explanation...very helpful...

...I'll keep the mallet within reach (an implied threat)...what was it that TR used to say?
 
One technique for removing studs that I've heard of (but never tried) is to thread a nut on the end of the stud, weld it on, and then remove just like you would a bolt. It sounds appealing.
 

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