Another mod to consider is to wire the headlights to switched power....so key off = head lights off. Parking light power would still remain on unswitched power. I'm so used to driving Saabs that I haven't turned my headlight switch off in pretty much ever because key off = headlights off. Its something I therefore constantly forget when I drive the 60 because I pretty much run the headlights all the time as a safety feature.
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I don't think its the purple tint that you want. I think you are simply confusing your desire for the tint with those wheels. Those F5 Stealth wheels are one of the few aftermarket ones that are both more modern and work well with the 60 shape.
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- #303
Well the electrical problem turned out to be a simple fix... and now I’m chasing a vacuum leak that’s causing the truck to run horribly. It won’t run without choke, even warm. I swear I can hear the vacuum leak but can’t find it with either heater hose or starting fluid. I thought it might be a fuel problem so I changed my filter but that made no difference.
It runs really happily at 1500rpm around half choke and sputters if I move the choke in or out from that spot. Could this be caused by dirty jets in the carb? It ran really well on Sunday when I took it on its longest drive since the engine swap... and now it’s angry with me.
It runs really happily at 1500rpm around half choke and sputters if I move the choke in or out from that spot. Could this be caused by dirty jets in the carb? It ran really well on Sunday when I took it on its longest drive since the engine swap... and now it’s angry with me.
Vacuum leaks will cause that to happen. Find the vacuum leak and then adjust the timing and carb
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- #306
I replaced both of mine shortly after getting the engine running so I hope I can rule those out. I also cranked those nuts today to try to further rule out that spot.
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- #307
I won't call this job done until everything is torqued to spec but the springs, shocks, pins, and shackles are all swapped out!! Getting those pins out is just awful. I didn't take great before and after photos, in part because the job took a lot longer than expected and also because the rear is very loaded in the "after" photo... but I think the difference is still clear. The last photo shows how the front looked with only the DS changed out. 
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- #309
Haha I guess that depends who you ask. They're OME CS004 springs all around with an extra leaf in the rear. With my stock bumpers that probably means 2.5" in the front and 3" in the rear. I bought the springs used from @torfab, I think they were on his truck for a year and a half or so. Broken in! I should be able to see the final stance next week after I get my 33" BFGs out of the back of the truck and onto the wheels. If the stinkbug is really bad I'll just prioritize building some drawers.
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- #310
Yesterday I got the suspension all torqued down. I have a persistent vacuum problem that requires half choke to run but that didn't stop me from taking the truck around the block to test out the suspension. It feels so good!
I also spent a while trying to debug that vacuum leak (I think it's the carb base, need an offset 12mm wrench to really tighten it down) and changing out frame-to-axle brake lines. I got the rear line in just fine but I encountered a rounded nut on one of the hardlines in the front so that may have to wait... or I'll just replace it with a soft line altogether.
I bought some wheels and tires a couple of weeks ago intending to just swap the tires onto my rims and re-sell the wheels. Unfortunately I really like the way these wheels look leaned up against my truck. Bad news is they're 15x10 with 4" or 3.75" backspacing and the tires are 33x10.5. I could spend the money I would pay to a shop to swap the tires on lugs and spacers instead... but that tire/rim width combo doesn't feel good to me long-term. Still... look at it!
I also spent a while trying to debug that vacuum leak (I think it's the carb base, need an offset 12mm wrench to really tighten it down) and changing out frame-to-axle brake lines. I got the rear line in just fine but I encountered a rounded nut on one of the hardlines in the front so that may have to wait... or I'll just replace it with a soft line altogether.
I bought some wheels and tires a couple of weeks ago intending to just swap the tires onto my rims and re-sell the wheels. Unfortunately I really like the way these wheels look leaned up against my truck. Bad news is they're 15x10 with 4" or 3.75" backspacing and the tires are 33x10.5. I could spend the money I would pay to a shop to swap the tires on lugs and spacers instead... but that tire/rim width combo doesn't feel good to me long-term. Still... look at it!
10" wheel is pretty darn wide...and with spacers? I went with 16 x 8", love that size combo. But then there is the tall skinny look......rabbit hole
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- #312
Yeah I'm going to mount the 33x10.5s on my 15x8.5 slot mags. I just can't justify buying spacers and lug nuts for rims that don't match the tires. What's more, I'll be able to make a decent amount back by reselling the AR767s.
In other fun news, the electrical gremlins have started having their way with Treebeard. I'm confident that this was self-inflicted when I was trying to wire up the carb fan. It seemed so simple! I don't think my fuel cutoff solenoid is working (no clicks heard on key turn) and I suspect that the spark from my ignition coil is weak (it really doesn't want to start, especially without starter fluid). I need to buy a multimeter and start replacing my gnarly battery cables.
In other fun news, the electrical gremlins have started having their way with Treebeard. I'm confident that this was self-inflicted when I was trying to wire up the carb fan. It seemed so simple! I don't think my fuel cutoff solenoid is working (no clicks heard on key turn) and I suspect that the spark from my ignition coil is weak (it really doesn't want to start, especially without starter fluid). I need to buy a multimeter and start replacing my gnarly battery cables.
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- #313
I just confirmed that the FCS clicked when hotwired to the battery and worked backwards from there. The engine fuse was blown and a swap has me back up and running. Still no carb fan... is it possible that I blew the fuse by trying to ground the carb fan sensor wire? Isn't that what you're supposed to do to get it to run on a timer? I suppose it's also possible that the carb fan itself is bad and that I succeeded in supplying power to it, only for it to pull more than it should have. I have a newer carb fan that I'll swap in and try again.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Can bwnch test the carb fan and yes grounding the sensor wire is what you need to do and should hear a faint click from the driverkick panel. I bench tested the one in the 84fj60 i am working on and installed it but it wont come on it wasn't working before but i got it spinning with an 18v battery on the bench. Green connector blue with red strip should have power when grounding the sensor wire. Make sure to turn the key on then off then ground the sensor wire and test the blue wire with red stripe for power
Tommy
Tommy
- Thread starter
- #316
The 33s are on! I also got an alignment and brake bleed. This feels like a big milestone as the truck is finally driving and looking the way I want. Time to outfit it for the summer...
. I hope you keep those mags.
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- #318
@MoaByte the mags definitely stay for now. I'm considering plasti-dipping them so I can see if I like them black and still be able to reverse it. 
Today I ordered a Radio Shack buzzer, multimeter, and some extra fuses. The buzzer is going to help me to stop killing my 24F battery by leaving the lights on.
I also developed a knocking noise that seems to be coming from my PS side front wheel. My steering and braking performance also got noticeably worse at the same time. I jacked it up when I got home and found that there's quite a bit of 12-6 play in the wheel so my knuckle rebuilds will happen this weekend. It's not what I had hoped for but at least I have time to do it!
Today I ordered a Radio Shack buzzer, multimeter, and some extra fuses. The buzzer is going to help me to stop killing my 24F battery by leaving the lights on.
I also developed a knocking noise that seems to be coming from my PS side front wheel. My steering and braking performance also got noticeably worse at the same time. I jacked it up when I got home and found that there's quite a bit of 12-6 play in the wheel so my knuckle rebuilds will happen this weekend. It's not what I had hoped for but at least I have time to do it!
I did the Plastidip thing on the Rusty chrome stock wheels. So easy, didn't even need to mask the tires. It would wear thin after a year or so then I'd shoot a couple more coats. The only down side was how quickly they got dusty.
That buzzer mod for the headlights is slick. While you are messing with buzzers, there is one behind the passenger kick panel that prevents you from enjoying your stereo with the doors open. Find it, it's in a plastic box and snip the wires from the speaker. Why Toyota thought you needed a buzzer to tell you your door is open with the key in and not a "You left your lights on Dummy" is puzzling.
That buzzer mod for the headlights is slick. While you are messing with buzzers, there is one behind the passenger kick panel that prevents you from enjoying your stereo with the doors open. Find it, it's in a plastic box and snip the wires from the speaker. Why Toyota thought you needed a buzzer to tell you your door is open with the key in and not a "You left your lights on Dummy" is puzzling.
red66toy
Supporting Vendor
Looking very nice! Love the stance. 
