TRE bung taper in reversed direction (1 Viewer)

[bikersmurf]

I’ve done a Scout II P/S conversion. By using an ‘81 Toyota 4x4 TRE the stock 40 series drag link is now the +/- 5” longer it needs to be to fit perfectly with the 40 drag link.

The challenge I’ve come across is that the taper in the Mini-truck TRE faces towards the back of the truck rather than the front.

The taper

The old TRE from my scrap pile vs new TRE.

The 60 series damper to install.

The stud/mount.

The damper needs to be in front to clear the Tie Rod.

Solutions?

Drill the TRE out & Make a new stud?

Reverse the taper and hope there’s enough extra length in the stud for it to fit?

Add shim to above suggestion?

Other ideas and wisdom?

 

[matzell]

So did you go from a 84-85 mini truck 21 mm down to the 79-83 19mm set up? if so why? what was wrong with the other set up. Pics might help? I guess the scout is outside the frame and you needed it longer. Why not cut and install a solid rod to extend the other one or just buy a 84-85 tie rod and cut it down to fit? You can also re-tap the tube once you have the correct size. Anything over a 33" with a locker and you will bend the drag link.

 

[65swb45]

I have about three relay/drag link rods left on the shelf that I had custom made back in the day for the Scout conversions. Use the stock Toyota lower end and the routine SAE upper end for the pitman arm. If you had a stateside shipping address, I’d be happy to sell you one.

 

[bikersmurf]

So did you go from a 84-85 mini truck 21 mm down to the 79-83 19mm set up? if so why? what was wrong with the other set up. Pics might help? I guess the scout is outside the frame and you needed it longer. Why not cut and install a solid rod to extend the other one or just buy a 84-85 tie rod and cut it down to fit? You can also re-tap the tube once you have the correct size. Anything over a 33" with a locker and you will bend the drag link.

Only running 33x10.50s, open diff, and no plans to go larger. The next tires will likely be 16” equivalent to 33 but slightly narrower than 10.50s.

I have about three relay/drag link rods left on the shelf that I had custom made back in the day for the Scout conversions. Use the stock Toyota lower end and the routine SAE upper end for the pitman arm. If you had a stateside shipping address, I’d be happy to sell you one.

The steering is installed and working. The TRE already has the correct taper to fit the pitman arm.

I’ve currently got an aftermarket steering damper I’m going to get rid of. I’ll going to install a Monroe aftermarket 60 series damper where the 40 series was.

The challenge is the taper faces rearward. The stud needs to face forward to mount the steering damper. Other than that, I’ll just need to move the OEM mount further across to account for the longer 60 series damper.

 

[pb4ugo]

Why do you want to run a dampner? If your steering geometry is close you shouldn't need it.

 

[bikersmurf]

I’m thinking I’ll turn the stud to remove the taper, drill out the TRE to remove the taper, and then turn a sleeve to make up the difference.

 

[bikersmurf]

Why do you want to run a dampner? If your steering geometry is close you shouldn't need it.

I’m aware many running Saginaw boxes get away without a damper. However I feel it’ll reduce some of the stresses that would otherwise have to be absorbed by the box.

I also feel there’s a reason the engineers who designed Scouts, Landcruisers, and many other vehicles to have them. Even the ambulance I drive has one, and many find their E350/450 Fords drive better after installing one from an ambulance.

 

[bikersmurf]

Here are a couple links that explain it better than I care to. I’m also trying to modify my rig to make it easier on my body so I can keep driving it more.

Why You Need an Aftermarket Steering Damper

photo by wattanaphob via iStock There are many questions and misconceptions around steering dampers. When do you need to upgrade? Will it fix death wobble? D

www.4wdtalk.com

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