TRD SC Fan position vs stock (1 Viewer)

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Lots of noise is made about the S/C, but the real market is small, niche with a niche market. In other words, not enough to support any development, sales profit, abusing those who do this stuff is likely to have the effect of them saying screw it. :hillbilly:

On the spacer, making more has uncovered that there are at least two differing heights on the idler pulleys. So it's not a one size fits all thing, at this point, haven't figured what changes, how to determine/measure if it needs ~.200" or ~.300" spacer.
 
Lots of noise is made about the S/C, but the real market is small, niche with a niche market. In other words, not enough to support any development, sales profit, abusing those who do this stuff is likely to have the effect of them saying screw it. :hillbilly:

On the spacer, making more has uncovered that there are at least two differing heights on the idler pulleys. So it's not a one size fits all thing, at this point, haven't figured what changes, how to determine/measure if it needs ~.200" or ~.300" spacer.
is the spacer depth varying depending on year or just across the board? and witsend has always done right by me, and Ive bought almost one of everything thus far, still need a link for air powered blender cause that a go. @NLXTACY
 
WTF did I miss? The last message I got was that you thought the bearing was bad so I had another sent out. I do not physically send these out. I don’t do the machining on them. If it doesn’t arrive then seriously I need a text, call, email or anything saying “hey dumb****, where is my part”.

But I suppose finding a thread on here complaining is just as good since I eventually found it. Ugh.

If it’s bad please ship it back to me ASAP. I cannot get credit for it unless I have the unit. In the meantime I need to understand what failed on my end AND get you a replacement. This is literally THE first time any of the clutches had an issue so it’s virgin territory.

And btw, “pretty bad about these things”? I’d love to hear more. I’ve never been accused of not taking care of bad/defective/malfunctioning parts...until now.
... sorry I do not know it gonna turn this way, just was looking for an alternative solution as this "orange clutch" fail , well not fail it is was working well for its primary purpose - cooling well, but the bearing inside start rattling and when I pull by fan fins it is not firm it is lose, so I took it off so for the cause it will compliantly fail and fan rip apart belts, pipes, radiator etc. I do not have any information to who to send for a replacement I do not have any info on the next step.
 
its my opinion the orange hubbed clutch design is the same basic design as the blue hub and some other Aisin clutches with only slight changes for their specific applications. In the case of the orange hub it's slightly taller for the diesel application for whatever reason.

it's unfortunate your clutch had an issue but even with todays manufacturing abilities failures still happen.

Before assuming its a bad clutch and just replacing it I would inspect the water pump for running true and the fan itself for anything that might cause a balance issue. You're looking for something that would induce a wobble or unusual loads on the clutch.
 
its my opinion the orange hubbed clutch design is the same basic design as the blue hub and some other Aisin clutches with only slight changes for their specific applications. In the case of the orange hub it's slightly taller for the diesel application for whatever reason.

it's unfortunate your clutch had an issue but even with todays manufacturing abilities failures still happen.

Before assuming its a bad clutch and just replacing it I would inspect the water pump for running true and the fan itself for anything that might cause a balance issue. You're looking for something that would induce a wobble or unusual loads on the clutch.
I did look at those failure points - it is a clutch inside , water pump OK (new) Aisin, fan (OEM) my original, studs one that comes with a clutch. all looking solid just clutch is wobble between hub and the clutch acceptably unit. I can probably still use it , but I do not want to risk it as it will create too much damage on the terminal failure.
 
ok, get it back to us.
I was dealing with Jovi
WTF did I miss? The last message I got was that you thought the bearing was bad so I had another sent out. I do not physically send these out. I don’t do the machining on them. If it doesn’t arrive then seriously I need a text, call, email or anything saying “hey dumb****, where is my part”.

But I suppose finding a thread on here complaining is just as good since I eventually found it. Ugh.

If it’s bad please ship it back to me ASAP. I cannot get credit for it unless I have the unit. In the meantime I need to understand what failed on my end AND get you a replacement. This is literally THE first time any of the clutches had an issue so it’s virgin territory.

And btw, “pretty bad about these things”? I’d love to hear more. I’ve never been accused of not taking care of bad/defective/malfunctioning parts...until now.
Hi are you Joey?
 
Joey is the owner/operator of Wit's End and goes by NLXTACY here on mud.

Landtank is the creator/maker of the orange hub clutch and has Joey sell them.



I was dealing with Jovi

Hi are you Joey?
 
Yeah, Joey has excellent customer service. I have emailed him a few times with stupid questions at 2-3 am and he’s gotten back within 30 minutes. Pretty sure that he doesn’t sleep.
 
is the spacer depth varying depending on year or just across the board? and witsend has always done right by me, and Ive bought almost one of everything thus far, still need a link for air powered blender cause that a go. @NLXTACY

So far it appears that the difference in spacer thickness requirements is due to variables in the TRD S/C tension bracket assembly.
 
So far it appears that the difference in spacer thickness requirements is due to variables in the TRD S/C tension bracket assembly.

^^^ This, it doesn't appear to be related to the motor year, something to do with differing parts used in the S/C kits.
 
I know it’s been a while! But I just wanted to get something clarified. Can you run a normal 1fz fan with the supercharger spacer or does it contact the radiator? I know that spacing the fan closer the motor will make it more efficient but is it necessary in order to run a “ non ringed” fan
 
I know it’s been a while! But I just wanted to get something clarified. Can you run a normal 1fz fan with the supercharger spacer or does it contact the radiator? I know that spacing the fan closer the motor will make it more efficient but is it necessary in order to run a “ non ringed” fan
Depends on the year of the LC. 95-97 yes. The 94 uses the one with the circle.

This is what I seen with my buddy's
94. The original fan was close to the radiator and making contact with the shroud.
 
I wouldn’t run a stock fan on a SC engine with the water pump spacer in place. The fan could slice your radiator open at the bottom.
Ok good to know! Can it be done with the 3fe fan? I was reading in joeys super long thread that you can because it spaces it towards the engine 1/2”. I just wanted to verify this before I fork out the money for a new one!
 
I've been meaning to update this thread.

I installed my SC in October 2022 with 1/2" steel spacers found at Advanced Auto and a modified blue hub. A month later, I drove the Cruiser 7 hours to Tenn, wheeled around on the Windrock trails for three days, and then drove 7 hours home.

However in January of this year, I must have gotten on the throttle a little too hard and my fan reached in and sliced my radiator. Luckily for me this happened about 2 miles from home and I still had most of my coolant by the time I pulled in the driveway.

I replaced the damaged TYC1918 at 1.89" thick with a Denso at 1.42" thick for more breathing room between the blades and core. In addition, I replaced the 1/2" (12.71mm) spacers with 8mm aluminum spacers from McMaster Carr. I also replaced my stock fan with another stock fan ordered off Amazon since there were signs of plastic fatigue on the original. This combination left me with about 4mm of space between the pulleys/belts and the fan.

Sadly, the TYC was only 2 months old. I broke the nipple off my original radiator during the SC install in October.

Photo1: Slash in the TYC
Photo2: 8mm spacers, stock fan

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