Traveling. Need help: 1999 front diff passenger-side output bearing... (1 Viewer)

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Apr 4, 2010
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Location
Austin, TX
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I have a 1999 100 series Land Cruiser and am on the road driving from Austin, TX to Lander, WY to get a NOLS Wilderness EMT certification... and seem to have lost my front differential's passenger-side output bearing (where the CV axle inserts @ the diff).


This a long story, and I have very poor internet. Here's the short version of my main questions:

1. Can this bearing and seal be replaced externally (w/o pulling and opening the differential)?

2. What are the part numbers for the bearing, seal, plate, etc?

3. Are any special tools required?

4. Can anyone link me to a walkthrough of the repair?

5. The internet seems to indicate this is a cone-shaped "tapered bearing" - like a wheel bearing. I haven't seen mine, but that doesn't make sense to me. It seems it should be a roller bearing or needle bearing. Can anyone verify this for me?

Any help with any of these questions would be greatly appreciated!!!

Here are more details and a fun story:

I am experiencing a front-end vibration that is wheel-speed-dependent at speeds over 45mph, but only under power. It is very bad at highway speeds. It increases when under acceleration and decreases when coasting - classic presentation of driveline problem. On my way here I went to a tire shop, bought two new rear tires and had them all balanced and rotated, so it's not a tire problem.

I bought the truck about 2 months ago look like a "mall mom car," completely stock with approx 240,000 miles on the clock. I quickly installed a 2" lift and 33" tires, a roof rack and rear bumper and drove it 1000 miles to Big Bend and back with no problems. I'm a reasonably good mechanic who is familiar with 4x4 Toyotas, but this is my first ever Land Cruiser.

When I lifted the truck both the CV axles' boots began to leak. I anticipated this would happen and was watching for it, so I caught the leak it started. I replaced all the boot clamps on both axles, but the next day passenger side CV axle ruptured it's inner boot. I replaced the passenger-side CV axle (with a new (not rebuilt) aftermarket one), installing it about 50 miles before leaving for my trip. The driver's side axle's boots remain fine with new clamps.

At this time I also did a full fluid change and driveline re-grease using AMSOIL products. This includes brake fluid, diffs, transfer, radiator, oil,wheel bearings re-pack; when I installed the lift (OME 2" heavy rear springs + rear air bags + stock tosion bar crank) I also did A quick timing belt + front engine seals + water pump, replaced the lower ball joints, and gave the Hundy a fairly thorough inspection. Its really is pretty solid, rust free, and in reasonably very good condition. And then I took off for Wyoming.


I got about 100-200 miles down the road when an intense front end vibration started. It had a sudden onset: at 75mph all of a sudden it was like driving on the road's "rumble strip." I pulled over to discover the passenger-side axle, which I had just replaced, had tore it's inner boot, and I (incorrectly) assumed I had installed a defective CV axle assembly. And I was pissed. I slowly limped to the nearest a small town that had one in stock, got there just before the store closed for the night, bought another new aftermarket CV axle (and some wheel bearing grease, paper towels, and front diff oil), and installed it there in the parking lot, in the dark, using just the tools I was traveling with. Because I'm a badass.

When I finally got back on the road the vibration was still there. I almost cried. It was about midnight. It seemed inconceivable that I would get two defective CV axles in a row.

I got back under the truck and closely reinspected everything and discovered that the new CV axle has considerable radial play where in inner joint inserts to the front differential: the joint will wiggle forward and backward, up and down, round and round.
This free play is what I think is my bad differential bearing.


I paid over $4000 for my Wilderness EMT class in Wyoming, I had about 36 hours to get there or else I'd loose my money... I had delayed my departure to celebrate my 11 year old son's birthday, and now it looks like I was out of time.
I was exhausted, devastated. Defeated.
There in the dark, in the cold, covered with grease in middle of the night, I couldn't imagine how to pull it off.


Then I realized I could maybe pull my front driveshaft and drive there in "2wd" mode. So I did this and was reminded my Hundy is an AWD, and the center differential lock only engages in 4wd-low. Ih8mud taught me the "7-pin mod" (burred in an in-cabin air filter thread?!) and I knocked it out, got the center to lock, and by 1:00 am I was back on my way. I drove the remaining 1200 miles in about 24 hours and got there on time. I'm currently in Lander, Wy finishing my class.

For whatever it's worth, I don't think overdrive works under these conditions (my dash light doesn't illuminate). Also my fuel economy improved in 2wd mode from about 10mpg to 12 mpg, while driving 80mph the whole way.


So... I know I can fairly easily pull the axle again, and if it's easy to swap out that diff bearing and seal, I'd like to fix it before driving the 2000 miles I have planned for my drive home (which ideally includs a pass through Yellowstone and Moab...).



Thanks for your help and I apologize for any typo's. I thumb-typed this with the most sketchy internet connection ever - which also mkes researching my problem almost impossible from here. I've attached some random trip photos for the fun of it.



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Man... you get the Chief Dan George / Outlaw Josey Wales award for perseverance!

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Beyond that I'm no help on this one but I'm looking forward to reading what the solution is
 
The bearing in the diff on pass side is one of the carrier bearings, so rebuild of diff if ,IF that is the issue. Did you use a new clip ring on diff end of CV? More later.

Edit:
Let's check a few things before we go too far.
1. (question above) Could be clip ring is not seating or holding in retention groove in dif.
When this ring seats you can not move CV in and out more than a tiny bit.
Sound a lot like it is not seating.
2. Write up only says you pulled driveshaft, did you also remove drive flanges from both hubs?
Were the splines in drive hubs in good condition. Have been cases where they strip.
3. Your front is cranked up pretty high, how much droop do you have?
Too little droop can cause some weird vibrations.
Puts extra stress on retention clip ring.

Could be several other issues, before you get to the bearing in diff. If it is that bearing need to pull diff and rebuild it. There is a bearing and seal in the extension tube on driver's side that you might replace with out pulling diff, but that's not the one with a problem.
I am thinking it is not the diff bearing, because if it had that much play your front diff would be howling like a coyote on crack.
 
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Have you had a chance to look into this more?
 
Yesterday I finally was able to meet up with an older gentleman at a Toyota Dealership service department.
We Brainstormed together for a while and decided that my problem most likely is that the inner CV Axle is probably not fitting correctly into the differential, and that I should probably drive home with the front driveshaft removed, rebuild the OEM one I removed and saved - which only had a freshly ruptured boot, and use that one.

I was able to verify what Skido said, especially that the passernger side of the front diff does not have an output bearing.... so any free play is either from the inner workings of the diff's carrier OR from the CV axle....


I guess I will be just fine until I get back and have a chance to do all that work.
Thank you for your help!

-Steve
 
Thank you all for the input and good thoughts. I was completing a school and was attempting to navigate finals while also working through this issue with my Land Cruiser.
I ended up driving home safely and uneventfully back to Texas. This morning I rebuilt my OEM origional CV axle and installed it back into my truck. This completely solved my issue.

It turns out that my NEW aftermarket CV Axles - purchased from Advanced Auto Parts - were both either defective or out of spec for my 100 series. I uploaded two photos of the two axles. The black ones are the OEM Toyota (with fresh boots and McMaster clamps) -- they are clearly different than the aftermarket ones. The aftermarket ones also had slightly smaller teeth where they fit into the differential, though it is hard to see in the photos.

Thanks again for the help, and stay away from aftermarket CV Axles.
-Steve

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Hot damn. Good job. It's amazing how these things continuously spit out aftermarket parts. OEM or NoEM
 
Thread revival!
On a related note, I've replaced both CV axles on my Subaru. I researched OEM vs after market and found Subaru forum overwhelmingly recommend OEM although there is a huge price difference ($300 vs $50). There were accounts of people using after market that failed in less than 10,000 miles compared to 80-100,000 for OEM. I bought OEM and did not regret it. I'll pay for OEM CVA's on my LC if necessary.
Just my 2 cents for anyone researching this topic.
 

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