Transmission shifting a little wonky only in 4low! (1 Viewer)

[alia176]

All right, the center diff lock actuator has been swapped because the original one was making some nasty sounds.

All limit switches have been checked for continuity and they seem to be operational.

I'm going to button everything up now and then go for a drive. I'm not sure if I fixed the weird shifting issue but I sure did fix a flaky CDL actuator

Listen to this noise! New video by A. Ali - https://photos.app.goo.gl/pSSLK3GUpL3irnyDA

 

[alia176]

Okay, that's a wrap for the CDL saga. A different actuator has been installed and the center diff lock relay does not have extra sounds coming out of it from the left side kick panel. The motor sounds a little bit quieter and obviously very much smoother.

Here, have a listen : New video by A. Ali - https://photos.app.goo.gl/MDnh2vW7e5xqBu4e6

Thanks for all the inputs fellas, have a nice weekend.

 

[alia176]

4low shifting is still wonky so this will continue

 

[george_tlc]

Okay, I've been playing with this issue this morning. I pulled out the center diff lock limit switch which is on the nose of the transfer case, and it checked out pretty good. I would have expected complete continuity zero ohms when the switch is closed but it doesn't. It was something like xxx kohms.

Resistance should be less than an ohm with the switch 'closed' (pushed in). xxx kohms is NOT good.

The issue with these switches on our 80 is that very little current flows through them (they're being used as 'sensors') and the contacts inside the switch mechanism oxidize over time (if not used a lot to mechanically wipe the contacts clean).

You can bring back some life by electrically 'cleaning' them -> CDL Sensor/Switch - http://www.george4wd.taskled.com/cdl.html and at least you should be able to get down to reliable < 1 ohm when closed. Then at least you can re-run your tests knowing the switches are reporting true open/close condition.

cheers,
george.

 

[alia176]

Resistance should be less than an ohm with the switch 'closed' (pushed in). xxx kohms is NOT good.

The issue with these switches on our 80 is that very little current flows through them (they're being used as 'sensors') and the contacts inside the switch mechanism oxidize over time (if not used a lot to mechanically wipe the contacts clean).

You can bring back some life by electrically 'cleaning' them -> CDL Sensor/Switch - http://www.george4wd.taskled.com/cdl.html and at least you should be able to get down to reliable < 1 ohm when closed. Then at least you can re-run your tests knowing the switches are reporting true open/close condition.

cheers,
george.

Thanks for confirming George, my numbers were stupid high so I'll look into cleaning them.

 

[landtank]

Thanks for confirming George, my numbers were stupid high so I'll look into cleaning them.

Just replace them. The 2 that are the same can be purchased at OReilly for cheep. The odd ball I got from Toyota. But it may be out there some where.