Before I took the tranny apart, just sitting on the bench,when I would shift into reverse there would be a clunk sound.After getting into it I realize it is the collar on the reverse gear hitting the back of the case. Is this normal.I got the SOR 4 speed rebuild manual that gives measurements for where the gear should be and the post for the shift arm should be.I can not obtain the measurements for the post ,the gear hits the back of the case. Keeping in mind this is my first are there any suggestion to make sure this will be OK after it is all back together. Thanks,Tommy
TRANSMISSION REBUILD QUESTION (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter TOMMY76
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kiwidog
Kiwidog
Hi Tommy76,
I assume you have the top cover off the transmission and are looking down inside? The pivot for the reverse lever has non concentric pivot on the side of the case. There is small groove and centre pop mark on the outside end of the pivot. This gives you reference of where the non concentric pivot is. You should adjust it so that the idler gear( the one that slides) when it is in reverse and the three gears are all lined up and the teeth mesh fully. This will mean that the idler gear is not hitting the case. You should do this so you understand what you are doing when you adjust the pivot later with the top cover on.
There is description in the FSM on how to adjust the pivot.
The outside of the pivot has a small centre pop make which should be position up toward the box top. Reinstall the top cover making sure all the shift rails are in neutral You should see a square looking down into the shifter tower hole. The reverse fork must pick up the pivot on the bottom of the lever. The idler is not engaged with the reverse gears. Once the top is sitting on the dowel pins then you can put the transmission in reverse by moving the shift rail. Its the one with button on it when looking down the shifter tower. Turn the transmission over with input shaft and verify that the output shaft turns the opposite way. Now adjust the pivot on the side of the case. You have about 45 degrees of adjustment and the centre pop mark must always be up. The slot will be at a slight angle maybe and adjust it so you hear no noise from the idler gear hitting the case. You can't see it you can only hear it. Then lock the 10mm nut (14mm wrench) to the case so the pivot can't rotate, and you are done, the reverse adjustment anyway.
Thanks jb
I assume you have the top cover off the transmission and are looking down inside? The pivot for the reverse lever has non concentric pivot on the side of the case. There is small groove and centre pop mark on the outside end of the pivot. This gives you reference of where the non concentric pivot is. You should adjust it so that the idler gear( the one that slides) when it is in reverse and the three gears are all lined up and the teeth mesh fully. This will mean that the idler gear is not hitting the case. You should do this so you understand what you are doing when you adjust the pivot later with the top cover on.
There is description in the FSM on how to adjust the pivot.
The outside of the pivot has a small centre pop make which should be position up toward the box top. Reinstall the top cover making sure all the shift rails are in neutral You should see a square looking down into the shifter tower hole. The reverse fork must pick up the pivot on the bottom of the lever. The idler is not engaged with the reverse gears. Once the top is sitting on the dowel pins then you can put the transmission in reverse by moving the shift rail. Its the one with button on it when looking down the shifter tower. Turn the transmission over with input shaft and verify that the output shaft turns the opposite way. Now adjust the pivot on the side of the case. You have about 45 degrees of adjustment and the centre pop mark must always be up. The slot will be at a slight angle maybe and adjust it so you hear no noise from the idler gear hitting the case. You can't see it you can only hear it. Then lock the 10mm nut (14mm wrench) to the case so the pivot can't rotate, and you are done, the reverse adjustment anyway.
Thanks jb
- Thread starter
- #4
thank you both for all your help. I am using Vae Victus thread from 2013 where y'all were a great help to VV and everyone doing a rebuild.
I must be missing something. If the pot mark has to always be at the top where does the adjustment come from. Isn't the post one piece?
The only thing I see in the FSM is one pic on page 3-27 that says lock the nut when the punch mark is straight up. thanks again for all your help,Tommy
I must be missing something. If the pot mark has to always be at the top where does the adjustment come from. Isn't the post one piece?
The only thing I see in the FSM is one pic on page 3-27 that says lock the nut when the punch mark is straight up. thanks again for all your help,Tommy
