Transmission fluid drain-and-refill question (1 Viewer)

[Phx99Cruiser]

So about two years ago (approx. 21k miles) the dealership did a full transmission pan drop fluid replacement. Currently having no shifting or other problems...

For maintenance, would I be ok to just drain the pan by removing the plug (about 6qts I've read, correct?) then refill those 6qts. Then next oil change (about 6 months as I run Mobile 1 oil) repeat the transmission 6qt drain and refill. If I do this, can I introduce a synthetic with what is in there? I'm assuming the dealership used non-synthetic.

Or should I wait (another year?) and do a pan drop and replace with all synthetic? I would plan on using the Amsoil ATF.

I appreciate any insights - thanks!

 

[no-pistons]

So about two years ago (approx. 21k miles) the dealership did a full transmission pan drop fluid replacement. Currently having no shifting or other problems...

For maintenance, would I be ok to just drain the pan by removing the plug (about 6qts I've read, correct?) then refill those 6qts. Then next oil change (about 6 months as I run Mobile 1 oil) repeat the transmission 6qt drain and refill. If I do this, can I introduce a synthetic with what is in there? I'm assuming the dealership used non-synthetic.

Or should I wait (another year?) and do a pan drop and replace with all synthetic? I would plan on using the Amsoil ATF.

I appreciate any insights - thanks!

I only got about 4-5 quarts out when I did mine. I jacked the front end as high it would go to get as much out as I could. I don't see any problem with your first plan. I had no idea what was in my transmission when I bought the rig and so far have done a couple drain and fills with Mobil 1 ATF with no probs.

 

[Copenhagen1]

I use Mobile 1 ATF as well. I have done the drain and fill twice now and both times I have only gotten 4 quarts of fluid out.

I started with a empty drain pan, then carefully measured what came out of the transmission pan. That way I wasn't worried about overfilling.

 

[Supra88]

x3 on drain, measure, and refill with synthetic.

 

[OregonLC]

1) Send a sample into BlackStone and get a baseline. Post your results here so we can collect a trend of 'normal' data for A343Fs.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/515419-a343f-blackstone-results.html

2) If you want to do the flush, here's the procedure.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/509458-a343f-fill-procedure.html

 

[NMuzj100]

- Better to do it now and get the remaining factory fill out. (waiting a year is no big deal but this is fan forum)
- 75% of all wear particles created by the transmission during it's lifetime are present after 10k miles or so (assembly and initial wear in).
- The transmission has no filter so any contaminates can only be removed by fluid drains.
- A coolant line fluid exchange will get more old fluid out with less wasted fluid (important if using a pricey premium fluid).
- No need to do another pan drop anytime soon - possibly ever.

 

[no-pistons]

- Better to do it now and get the remaining factory fill out.
- 75% of all wear particles created by the transmission during it's lifetime are present after 10k miles or so (assembly and initial wear in).
- The transmission has no filter so any contaminates can only be removed by fluid drains.
- A coolant line fluid exchange will get more old fluid out with less wasted fluid (important if using a pricey premium fluid).
- No need to do another pan drop anytime soon - possibly ever.

It does have a metal screen filter in there.

 

[Newps]

I did something that makes this process simple and clean. I purchase one of the Home Depot plastic buckets and a top. I used a measuring cup and poured in one quart of water, then marked the bucket with a sharpie and wrote 1 quart. Repeated this process 10 times. I use a couple of ramps when I work on the truck. With the ramps the bucket will fit underneath with no problems. Since the bucket is so tall the amount of fluid that can splatter or be blown by the wind is almost nill. Another nice benefit to using the home depot bucket is the lid. Once snapped down this thing is not coming off. This is by far the safest way to transport oil for disposal.

- Drain it.
- Look at how much came out.
- Refill with the same amount.
- Start truck and check transmission dip stick to make sure it’s within range.

Hope this helps.

 

[OregonLC]

I did something that makes this process simple and clean. I purchase one of the Home Depot plastic buckets and a top. I used a measuring cup and poured in one quart of water, then marked the bucket with a sharpie and wrote 1 quart. Repeated this process 10 times. I use a couple of ramps when I work on the truck. With the ramps the bucket will fit underneath with no problems. Since the bucket is so tall the amount of fluid that can splatter or be blown by the wind is almost nill. Another nice benefit to using the home depot bucket is the lid. Once snapped down this thing is not coming off. This is by far the safest way to transport oil for disposal.

- Drain it.
- Look at how much came out.
- Refill with the same amount.
- Start truck and check transmission dip stick to make sure it’s within range.

Hope this helps.

^ Home Depot Bucket / Lid = Great Idea.

 

[Phx99Cruiser]

Thanks for the replies all. I'm a bit torn on whether to do the full flush and pan drop or just the partial drain and fill. Comes down to cost and effort I suppose. I'd like to have the full Amsoil synthetic running through...

Gotta go flip a coin then check the fund$ available right now I suppose

Either way I'm gonna get a Home Depot bucket and lid!

 

[OregonLC]

Thanks for the replies all. I'm a bit torn on whether to do the full flush and pan drop or just the partial drain and fill. Comes down to cost and effort I suppose. I'd like to have the full Amsoil synthetic running through...

Gotta go flip a coin then check the fund$ available right now I suppose

Either way I'm gonna get a Home Depot bucket and lid!

check with Amsoil website. I got lucky and have a warehouse within 5 miles of the office. If you join their little club thing ($10) it's a significant discount and the shipping is free if you pickup at the warehouse.

 

[NMuzj100]

check with Amsoil website. I got lucky and have a warehouse within 5 miles of the office. If you join their little club thing ($10) it's a significant discount and the shipping is free if you pickup at the warehouse.

I buy my Amsoil from a little old lady with a two-car garage full of motor oil. She has it all in stock and sells to me at a substantially reduced price without the "become a dealer nonsense". Check your local dealers and find one who keeps a decent stock.

The cooler line method is very easy but a bit messy. Nothing is easier than drain and fill though.

 

[UZJ100LC]

It does have a metal screen filter in there.

Does the filter really need to be changed? I was going to do a drain and fill at every oil change interval. Because I don’t want to drop the pan.

 

[Hokie99]

My understanding is that our filter is nothing but a screen and does not need to be replaced.

 

[Malleus]

Does the filter really need to be changed? I was going to do a drain and fill at every oil change interval. Because I don’t want to drop the pan.

Draining the pan and refilling it is a very costly way to get clean fluid in the gearbox. You'd need a very large amount of fluid to continually dilute the old fluid until it's been completely replaced, and that's assuming there is no wear internally while you're doing it, which isn't realistic. You wouldn't change your engine oil that way, why change the transmission fluid that way?

It literally takes an hour to completely change the fluid. And that's if you take your time, and include every single task, from start to finish, including cleaning everything afterwards.

 

[UZJ100LC]

Draining the pan and refilling it is a very costly way to get clean fluid in the gearbox. You'd need a very large amount of fluid to continually dilute the old fluid until it's been completely replaced, and that's assuming there is no wear internally while you're doing it, which isn't realistic. You wouldn't change your engine oil that way, why change the transmission fluid that way?

It literally takes an hour to completely change the fluid. And that's if you take your time, and include every single task, from start to finish, including cleaning everything afterwards.

You mean do the exchange process? Yes I think you are right and I’m leaning towards doing it

 

[Malleus]

You mean do the exchange process? Yes I think you are right and I’m leaning towards doing it

Yes, use the transmission to pump the fluid in and out. It's painless. Let the pan drain for as long as you can, so you won't have to wait so long. Overnight will get you 3-5 qts from the pan. Use @2001LC 's video, if you need instructions.

 

[awesomeissquid]

Yes, use the transmission to pump the fluid in and out. It's painless. Let the pan drain for as long as you can, so you won't have to wait so long. Overnight will get you 3-5 qts from the pan. Use @2001LC 's video, if you need instructions.

Using this method do you have to drain the pan or can you just pump it all out from the hoses?

 

[Malleus]

Using this method do you have to drain the pan or can you just pump it all out from the hoses?

This is a rabbit hole; here you go:

Using this method do you have to drain the pan or can you just pump it all out from the hoses?

2001LC xmsn flush

 

[76lcmike]

Thanks for the replies all. I'm a bit torn on whether to do the full flush and pan drop or just the partial drain and fill. Comes down to cost and effort I suppose. I'd like to have the full Amsoil synthetic running through...

Gotta go flip a coin then check the fund$ available right now I suppose

Either way I'm gonna get a Home Depot bucket and lid!

change fluid, drive a couple miles drain and fill again. do this 3 times or how many times you want.. done.
tyranny's always shed material, metal, clutch material and always breaks down due to heat.
change it every 30k you'll be right as rain. unless under extreme conditions