Transmission epic fail!!!! (1 Viewer)

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Feb 16, 2007
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No major problems from my 1999 cruiser with 175,000 miles, until yesterday...i tried to accelerate from a stop sign and didn't move. The engine revved, but no forward motion. I shifted back to park, and then to drive....metal on metal sound and no forward motion. I put it in park and the car acts like it is in neutral....

AM I FUBAR'D?

Any ideas to what went out? Torque converter? Do i need a new tranny?

I've done a search and it seems like the 2000 model year had tranny failures, but I didn't see any 1999's.

Thanks for any help,
Will
 

TheFuzz

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I'm going two guess stator clutch in teh tork converter, or (judging from the metal on metal sound) planetary gears.

ETA:

Can you lock the center diff and then drive? That will help isolate trans vs diff issue.
 
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I'm going two guess stator clutch in teh tork converter, or (judging from the metal on metal sound) planetary gears.

ETA:

Can you lock the center diff and then drive? That will help isolate trans vs diff issue.
The cruiser drives when the center diff is locked! What does that mean?

Thanks,
Will
 

Trunk Monkey

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Front diff kerblooey. Weird place for that to happen. Did you forget the words "tried to accelerate from a stop sign like a drag car on ice patched roads"?
 
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Front diff kerblooey. Weird place for that to happen. Did you forget the words "tried to accelerate from a stop sign like a drag car on ice patched roads"?
LOL...I wish I could blame it on abuse, but I was accelerating normally. It was at a stop sign in my neighborhood.

Any idea how much a front differential costs? Is it a DIY?

Thanks,
will
 

Trunk Monkey

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Search, plenty of threads. Be aware if you keep driving it you can do more damage. If you don't wheel ever you can replace with the 00'+ 4 pinion diff. Depends on your ability to turn a wrench. It's not crazy difficult, but it would take some time. Good time to do CV's and hubs and brakes, etc.
 
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Search, plenty of threads. Be aware if you keep driving it you can do more damage. If you don't wheel ever you can replace with the 00'+ 4 pinion diff. Depends on your ability to turn a wrench. It's not crazy difficult, but it would take some time. Good time to do CV's and hubs and brakes, etc.
Thanks! I don't do any off roading. It's mainly a highway cruiser. I'll look into the 2000 4 pinion front diff.

Any other suggestions/ comments are greatly appreciated!

thanks,
will
 
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Is the '00 diff cheaper than an ARB? And why can't you wheel with it? I had no effin idea they could blow at a stop sign. I better get that ARB like yesterday

Speaking of...I know it's cheaper to bring your diff to a shop rather than the car to get ARB installed..how hard is removing the diff? I'm very mechanically inclined but inexperienced. How much is fair to install it if I bring in just the pumpkin?
 
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i havent done it on the 100, but I think you just need to remove the cv assemblies, unbolt the drive shaft, unbolt the 3rd member and pull the diff out. There is quite a bit of labor involved in this statement, but nothing too difficult. Not sure on ARB install cost.
 

Trunk Monkey

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Removing the diff on the 100 isn't what you'd typically think of (remove cover, pull axles, plop). The whole carrier shebang has to come out and then you can pull the diff.

I think the 4 pinion and ARB are about similar in price when it's all said and done (ARB adds compressor cost and some lines/wires). And it's '00 and newer, not just 2000. You can wheel with it no problem, 2000UZJ wheels the crap out of his. It's just that an ARB is intended for off road use and if you're never, ever going to use it, why put one in?
 
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I just replaced my front diff with a oem Toyota and I paid 975$ for complete diff. Cheapest way to go IMO

Easy to change took me about 2 hours, no need to remove the cv from the wheel spindle. Remove upper and lower ball joint on the lhd wheel and steering ball joint, remove the Bolt holding the brake line and you will be able to pull the cv out of the diff, the diff will need to be loose so that you can moving while someone is trying to pull the cv, then pull the diff toward lhd and the right cv will come out.
 
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Removing the diff on the 100 isn't what you'd typically think of (remove cover, pull axles, plop). The whole carrier shebang has to come out and then you can pull the diff.

I think the 4 pinion and ARB are about similar in price when it's all said and done (ARB adds compressor cost and some lines/wires). And it's '00 and newer, not just 2000. You can wheel with it no problem, 2000UZJ wheels the crap out of his. It's just that an ARB is intended for off road use and if you're never, ever going to use it, why put one in?
ARB front and rear are on my list I drive a 99. I thought you meant put in an 00 dif in the 99 but dont wheel it, i get what you mean though. Yeah for highway purposes no need for arb but my 99 has a jones'n to go strange places.

Is removing the carrier shebang something I could do? Im good at mechanical things but limited in automotive mechanical experience. I dont feel like theres anything there i could really fxxx up...

Lospice are you from NOLA? I went to tulane...
 
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ARB front and rear are on my list I drive a 99. I thought you meant put in an 00 dif in the 99 but dont wheel it, i get what you mean though. Yeah for highway purposes no need for arb but my 99 has a jones'n to go strange places.

Is removing the carrier shebang something I could do? Im good at mechanical things but limited in automotive mechanical experience. I dont feel like theres anything there i could really fxxx up...

Lospice are you from NOLA? I went to tulane...
I'm a new orleans native! Small world....I'm gonna get a quote fro
My stealer for a front diff....
Thanks guys!
Will
 

Trunk Monkey

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Actually, trackmur brings up a good point. Seems like others have had drive flange problems or CV problems too. May not be the diff at all.
 

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