Transmission Bearings

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Posting in this section b/c seems like alot of tech/gearhead people hang out here:

I'm installing a 1HZ input shaft in a late 1980's Aussie H55F with vacuum tcase. I am wondering how to determine if the bearings need to be replaced. The trans was supposed to be rebuilt when I got it, but the 2H input shaft showed very serious wear/damage and would have needed to be replaced. So, I am a bit skeptical.

I've disassembled the gearbox. When the gearbox was fully assembled, I didn't feel any slop/play in the input or output shafts. When I disassembled, the input shaft bearing has some slop/play. The output shaft bearing seems to have a little slop/play. Do brand new input and output shaft main bearings have play/slop? The counter shaft bearings are tight and smooth.

Should I get a complete rebuild kit, or just replace the bearings that have play?

Thanks!
 
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Having installed my second H55f behind the 2H in the HJ45, just to find out i thas some dubious grinding noises, as opposed to the whine of the previous, I'd say get the full kit... And post a link to a good supplier, I need one too..........
 
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Is this the shaft that runs directly on the rollers of the bearing with no inside race? The bearing will not last long if the shaft is chewed up even if the bearing was replaced with the rebuild. The shaft is available from Australian sources. They are not cheap. I think that one cost me about $700 through my rebuilder who dealt with 4WheelAuto in Edmonton. I would think that just about any of the cruiser shops can source it for you. Give Radd cruisers a call. A crankshaft shop could weld the chewed shaft following up with a precision grind to original specs if you have the time. It might be the cheapest option of all.
 
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My question is regarding the main bearings in the transmission - and, particularly, the input shaft bearing and output shaft bearing.

I'll probably end up getting a complete rebuild kit and replacing all the bearings.
 
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Read my post carefully. I think that I am trying to convey information that will help you with your decision. If I can make it more clear then I will try. By all means replace bearings but take special care with the one that has no inside race using the shaft as its inner race.
 
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Read my post carefully. I think that I am trying to convey information that will help you with your decision. If I can make it more clear then I will try. By all means replace bearings but take special care with the one that has no inside race using the shaft as its inner race.

If you are talking about the input shaft bearing, it does have an inner race that is not part of the shaft. For some goofy reason it is two pieces and not connected to the bearing. The loose inner race parts came with my bearing.

Just to be sure you are talking about the same thing here is a pic of the bearing with race parts and the shaft while the bearing was still installed

Both the new and old bearings had some play in my H55 (I also replaced those loose needle bearings in the front of the main shaft that the input shaft goes into. Just grabbed the output shaft of an H42 in my shop and it has some play as well, this is a tranny that had no noises or grinding that has 300,000 miles on it as well. Only removed it to install an H55. Just how much play is OK I couldn't say, never have been around a new one.

Tony
5 speed input bearing.jpg
5 Speed output shaft 001.JPG
 
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Joined
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2 piece Axial float type Brg. is what Kynot62 posted Pix of.
And for Doug384, there are shops that grind & spray up harden brgs surfaces .
I had many valves done , way back & had Coba Crankshaft grind a rebuilt throw journal after Chinook sprayed up the journal ..

Sometimes If the Splines and all other is good , just a bearing ride surface refinish / respray of metal is the way. Chinook Ind In Calgary


VT


Of course , this all depends on availability and price.
 
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Your in there, get a rebuild kit from Kurt @ cruiseroutfitters and then buy three toyota synchro rings (better than aftermarket and around $40 each.

best of luck getting it snug. The synchronizer ring is the $$$ item and I am not sure if you can bench measure it or if it must be installed....
 
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I have the pieces kicking around somewhere. It may be the layshaft that I am thinking of where the rollers run directly on the shaft. It is heavy five gear build up that looks like it has been machined out of one piece. Anyway the rebuilder at the time was adamant that the shaft be replaced as the bearing wasn't running on a finished surface due to wear and damage. If it was apart in my shop I would have outsourced it to the crankshaft hard surface and regrind outfit but because of distance it made more sense to just get the new shaft. It wasn't a cheap transmission job but the rebuilder does have one of the best reputations for cruiser work here in Southern Ontario and came recommended. I have no complaints with his work but if I had to do it again I'd it myself.
 
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I have the pieces kicking around somewhere. It may be the layshaft that I am thinking of where the rollers run directly on the shaft. It is heavy five gear build up that looks like it has been machined out of one piece. Anyway the rebuilder at the time was adamant that the shaft be replaced as the bearing wasn't running on a finished surface due to wear and damage. If it was apart in my shop I would have outsourced it to the crankshaft hard surface and regrind outfit but because of distance it made more sense to just get the new shaft. It wasn't a cheap transmission job but the rebuilder does have one of the best reputations for cruiser work here in Southern Ontario and came recommended. I have no complaints with his work but if I had to do it again I'd it myself.

Don't quite know what you mean by "layshaft" as an H55 only has three shafts, input, output shaft and counter shaft.

Could be we are talking about the same surface just with different terms. Post some pics if you can, always nice to know where to look for wear or damage. Something new to be learned all the time

Tony
 

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