Transfer whine (1 Viewer)

[fjbj40]

Guess I will start a new thread.

My transfer case has stated whining more in the past few hundred miles!

Why am I saying it’s the transfer case? I had Valley Hybrids do a PPI and Georg said it was the transfer case, they often start the whine at about 300,000 miles, I’m at 285,000.

So after different post readings I get the impression that it can often the rear and front output bearings?

Anybody have an opinion? Someone mentioned gears, I have drained the oil and there is no glitter, 6000 miles on the oil. It was not golden coloured, more like charcoal grey.

Going to tear into it this weekend, hopefully.

 

[tylerbre]

Have you checked your transmission mount? Gear whine getting into the cabin will be exacerbated by an old, worn-out, or stiff aftermarket mount.

FWIW, I'm at 270 and I notice a little whine at cruising speed on-throttle but I always chalked it up to old mounts...

 

[fjbj40]

Have you checked your transmission mount? Gear whine getting into the cabin will be exacerbated by an old, worn-out, or stiff aftermarket mount.

FWIW, I'm at 270 and I notice a little whine at cruising speed on-throttle but I always chalked it up to old mounts...

Thanks, will have a look!

 

[fjbj40]

Going to try 90/140 oil and see if the noise changes as some trouble shooting first.

 

[LC4LIFE]

Prior to me swapping the front output bearing, which was the noisy bearing in my case, I put a qt of Lucas Oil Stabilizer in mine to really thicken it up along with thick gear oil. It quieted it down for a few thousand miles and then it came back. I never thought it was going to grenade, it was jut a bit noisier than I preferred.

You may also want to make sure it's not one of your differentials as I have seen diff noise travel right up the drive line making you think its the t-case when it was not.

 

[fjbj40]

Seems like the 75/140 quieted the xfer down, some.
I get the noise throttle on or throttle off once up to speed but coasting/slowing down it gets quieter.

Xfer gets pretty hot though?

Think I will check the front diff next.

I will remove front driveshaft take it for a spin but I am not sure if I can just pull it, I seem to remember there may have to be something done before that’s possible?

Search time!

 

[Kernal]

You need to lock the center differential before removing a driveshaft.

WARNING: the vehicle can roll, even with the automatic transmission in Park, if a driveshaft is removed and the CDL is not locked. Do not get under the vehicle before doing this (and always block/chock the wheels).

Procedure:
Start the vehicle, shift the Transfer case into LO, check that two warning lights (ABS and Diff Lock) come on, left lower instrument cluster, turn off vehicle, remove DIFF fuse from dash fuse box (lower right fuse in the box),
shift transfer case back to HI.

When you then start the engine the two orange warning lights should come on and stay on, ABS (because it's been disabled) and Diff Lock (because the CDL is locked).

Now you can drive it safely for as long as you want in that configuration.

 

[fjbj40]

You need to lock the center differential before removing a driveshaft.

WARNING: the vehicle can roll, even with the automatic transmission in Park, if a driveshaft is removed and the CDL is not locked. Do not get under the vehicle before doing this (and always block/chock the wheels).

Procedure:
Start the vehicle, shift the Transfer case into LO, check that two warning lights (ABS and Diff Lock) come on, left lower instrument cluster, turn off vehicle, remove DIFF fuse from dash fuse box (lower right fuse in the box),
shift transfer case back to HI.

When you then start the engine the two orange warning lights should come on and stay on, ABS (because it's been disabled) and Diff Lock (because the CDL is locked).

Now you can drive it safely for as long as you want in that configuration.

I tried to get Center diff to lock, used the procedure you mentioned and get no lights. I can hear a click by my right knee though when I shift into low, sounds like a relay?

I want to remove front driveshaft to eliminate front end in trying to figure out a whining noise. Xfer case or front diff, though I am sure it’s the xfer case as 75/140 oil quieted it down some but it’s still there. Just trying a progressive troubleshooting procedure to be sure.

 

[TNOverlander]

I tried to get Center diff to lock, used the procedure you mentioned and get no lights. I can hear a click by my right knee though when I shift into low, sounds like a relay?

I want to remove front driveshaft to eliminate front end in trying to figure out a whining noise. Xfer case or front diff, though I am sure it’s the xfer case as 75/140 oil quieted it down some but it’s still there. Just trying a progressive troubleshooting procedure to be sure.

You can try shifting in and out of low 50-100 times (literally) and often that gets it working again. If it has set for years without being put in low this is common. Mine had sat for a long time when I bought it 5 years ago. I tried this ridiculous sounding method and my lights came on and things started working and haven’t failed in the 5 years since. If that method doesn’t work you could try replacing the switch that detects when it’s locked. Others may chime in but there’s some switch for a Tacoma that works and is cheaper/more available I think.

You need to be sure the center diff is locked as others mentioned for safety and also if you drive with front driveshaft out and center diff unlocked you can/will burn up the viscous coupler in the tcase.

 

[Kernal]

IME it's easier to remove the switch on the top passenger side of the transfer case and work the detent ball in and out while cleaning it with CRC Quick Dry
Electronics cleaner, they putting it back in. If that doesn't work try replacing
the switch (or check it per the FSM). There's an aftermarket replacement that's fairly inexpensive, try some searches for that.

 

[fjbj40]

Tried all this, no joy

Going to remove actuator today.

 

[fjbj40]

Actuator out, took 30 mins, stupid easy, dropped tranny 2”, popped the bolts out, whack on side with brass drift, lifted it out!
See other thread for continuing saga

Center diff locking

I followed the instructions for locking center diff, but it’s not acting like it should. I started truck, shifted to low, but I did not get the “ABS and diff lock” light. ABS light comes on when I first turn on key but goes out in a few seconds. I do not have a ctr diff switch, yet. But I...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[fjbj40]

I have since driven without the front driveshaft....whine is gone!

So maybe it is the front diff or maybe it is the front output on the xfer.

Any recommendations on how to determine? Maybe put the 75/140 gear oil in the front, put driveshaft back on and see if it quiets down? Odd though, putting 75/140 in the xfer seemed to quiet it down some also