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It may not have needed shims when new from the factory so there aren't any (maybe).
The correct shims used to set the output shaft bearing preload are available in a variety of thicknesses from Toyota.
Setting the bearing preload with a shim/s is done by experimentation. Get a micro torque meter first that will measure within the range specified in the manual.
Install a thin shim, bolt up the bearing retainer with its gasket, then measure the preload.
If too tight, reduce the shim, if too loose, install a thicker one or add to what you've got until the preload when the bearing retainer is bolted up is within the allowable range specified in the manual.
The correct shims used to set the output shaft bearing preload are available in a variety of thicknesses from Toyota.
Setting the bearing preload with a shim/s is done by experimentation. Get a micro torque meter first that will measure within the range specified in the manual.
Install a thin shim, bolt up the bearing retainer with its gasket, then measure the preload.
If too tight, reduce the shim, if too loose, install a thicker one or add to what you've got until the preload when the bearing retainer is bolted up is within the allowable range specified in the manual.
g-man
SILVER Star
This is one of the last things you do when buttoning up the rear output.
g-man
SILVER Star
FWIW georg at Valley Hybrids can sell you a shim kit. but the shims are not marked or numbered.
Been a while since i did this but I think they go between the bearing race and the bearing retainer
Been a while since i did this but I think they go between the bearing race and the bearing retainer
g-man
SILVER Star
I'll sell you the remaining shims from my set. I think I only used one or two. PM me.
In the "inspection of transfer components" section of the 1984-1990 Chassis & Body manual, it says to start with the thinnest shim if replacing the output shaft rear bearing. The table posted above by g-man gives some guidance how much preload each successive shim will give.
I've never seen a table of shim thickness vs pre-load and I doubt there is one as it's going to be individual to the mfg tolerance of each T'case.
SOR has an aftermarket shim package that's inexpensive ($9 - SOR # 070-33A )
Years ago I asked Marv Spector this question and he simply said, '... I add shims till it [output shaft] spins like this...' and made a wheel-spinning motion in the air with his hand, like spinning a wheel of fortune prize wheel.
I took from that they didn't get too fussy with the preload, though I did set mine with an in/lb meter per FSM since I didn't have the learned 'feel' of doing hundreds of them.
Also, that race pops in/out pretty easy, with a brass drift, so it's not too difficult a trial and error process.
SOR has an aftermarket shim package that's inexpensive ($9 - SOR # 070-33A )
Years ago I asked Marv Spector this question and he simply said, '... I add shims till it [output shaft] spins like this...' and made a wheel-spinning motion in the air with his hand, like spinning a wheel of fortune prize wheel.
I took from that they didn't get too fussy with the preload, though I did set mine with an in/lb meter per FSM since I didn't have the learned 'feel' of doing hundreds of them.
Also, that race pops in/out pretty easy, with a brass drift, so it's not too difficult a trial and error process.
I got a shim set from Georg when I did mine. I found that the info in table from the FSM that @g-man posted above (which is also in the A440 manual) was dead nuts on with respect to preload vs thickness.