Transfer case leak - how long can it go? (1 Viewer)

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I have what seems to be a common leak. Oil dripping from emergency brake drum and needs topping off every so often. Question is will this drain itself dry and self destruct? Until fixing this properly I feel compelled to pull the fill plug (tranny too) and top it off everytime I want to drive it for fear of burning it out but that's a real hassle.
 
Obviously this varies with the individual leak, how hard you drive, how often, and so forth. That being said, when I have had to deal with it, you can usually get an idea from the size of the puddle on the garage floor, and have daily driven (1000 miles/month) it without a refill for 6 months. But that was too long and I should have filled at 4.
 
Agree with Dave as my experience that leak was slow and not something you had to deal with every time you take a drive. Maybe check it once a month or so.

Do the e-brake rebuild. You can get the kits fairly cheap. A few hours of labor. If your output flange is raced then you need a new one or use a speedi-sleeve (got mine from NAPA) which solved my leak.

AndrewT
 
like the others said depends on the leak, i only check mine in the spring and fall, but it isnt a DD any more because of gas prices. i have had it 3 years now and have only had to top it off once (t/c and R axle) just finished front rebuild so i wont check it till fall but no leaks yet.
 
cruiseroutfit said:
Cheap fix, a seal and mabey a set of park brake shoes... :D


Thanks! I assume we're talking about the rear transer seal. Why brake shoes? Are these damaged by leak?
 
Yes, they may be damaged by the leak. Mine were completely oil soaked - took them to the glass bead cabinet and cleaned them up. That was 5 years ago.

The seal replacement is a 1 banana job, going to do mine this weekend as I failed to when I switched to the 3 speed transfer case that came off a rig which hadn't run in years.
 
hey not to hijack, but when doing e-brake rebuild, how tight do you go on the big nut that holds it all togeather?
 
not too tight, but make sure it's pinched over properly.

my brothers wasn't and we noticed a HUGE leak, had a look, and the only reason the whole lot didn't fall out at speed was because his drive shaft couldn't compress anymore to let it slide that last 5mm off the spline
 
I used to have a leak in mine a few months back. Started out as a small leak drop of fluid after every drive. I took it on a 100 mile one way trip and towards the end of the trip the case started to make some noise. Once stopped all the fluid that was left was on the ground which wasn't very much. so I would try and fix it asap if not keep a close eye on it.
 
the big nut needs to be about 100#. the rear bearing needs to be about 14 inch #. there is a huge diff.


jim
 
just checked my orion notes and it says 101-123 foot #s on the front and rear big nuts. forget about the one on the end of the trans shaft. have fun


jim
 
If the speedi sleeve isn't available and you do have a groove on the seal surface, there is always the trick where you just don't quite put the new seal in as far as the last one was, usually jus a couple mm out will do. Did that to my front main when I was in a pinch and never had a leak again.

Unfortunately these gearbox's are'nt made out of magnesium. The main and tail gearboxes on the Blackhawk can actually fly for 30 minutes with complete loss of oil. Cool huh... :grinpimp:
 
The combination of a sleeve and the double seal deal has worked fine for me.

Also, I just ground out the lip inside the speedo housing with a die grinder to fit the second seal. No need to send it off/exchange, just be careful you don't take too much or JB Weld, here you come!
 

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