Transfer case/front drive issues (1 Viewer)

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myquestoyota

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Mar 1, 2010
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Western WA
I put the 40 into 4wd this weekend and had an intermittent growling vibration issue. I took it out on the road in 4wd high and it would growl and then go away depending on load. My first guess was u-joints. Yesterday I removed the front driveline to check the u-joints and to feel the transfer case and front axle without the driveline in place. The u-joints had no play in them. The front output flange has some play in it, how much is too much? The flange at the front axle has very little play and feels really smooth with little or no perceivable backlash. I change the gear oil while I was at it. My concern is the front of the transfer case. How difficult is it to change the front bearing on the t-case? I have the bypass hose from the tranny to transfer and have no leaks to speak of.
 
What are your driveline angles like? Are your pinion and TC flanges parallel with one another? Is the driveshaft properly in phase? What suspension modifications do you have, if any?

Does it still grown with the hubs locked and not in 4wd? Or without the driveshaft in?
 
The driveline angles are good. I put a OME 2.5" lift on 8 years ago and put shims in for the front axles at that time. No other mods since. It has been good the last 7 winters so this is a recent problem. I was out last winter nursing two repaired shoulders and thought I should run my 4wd before I needed it. The only questionable thing I have found is the side play in the flange at the transfer case, everything else seems pretty solid. I have had the hubs in and out occasionally and have the front driveline out right now while I diagnose the problem. I'll put the hubs in just for a test on the way home and report back. When I get close to home I will put it in 4wd to test that also. I had it in 4 low a couple of times to move my boat around and it does not exhibit any problems at low speed.
 
The front output should not have any lateral "play". It should not have any rotational play when engaged either. A bit of gear lash but thats it. IIRC you can remove the nose cone and replace the bearing. It may change the preload and that is adjusted with shims at the rear output housing so you have to put the front bearing in and then check the preload , adjust if necessary.
 
Drove it home with the hubs in and put it in 4H. No vibrations or growling.
 
I see this hasnt been answered yet.
Well I'm not sure and after I removed it I realized I forgot to mark it but it had not been removed for a long time and was working fine until this year.
Now I need to revisit clocking it before I reinstall it.
 
I'm still leaning toward the front bearing on the T-case. How many :banana: job is that?
 
I figured one of the gurus would chime in or at least link a thread with some clues. I've searched the best I can but have not found an answer.
 

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