Trans cooler

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So question from this video...

Is the drain hose for our application the top port of the addon cooler?

I just downloaded the fluid adjustment pdf from post #33 👌

 

Acrad

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I keep the ATF warmer...or thermostatic switch..whatever it is called open all the time. I saw many on the Tundra forums did this since that switch opens up above 200 degrees. Not sure of the exact open temps but something for you to experiment with if you think your AT cooler isn't dropping temps enough.

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Acrad

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The top AT connection on the radiator is from the transmission and the bottom one is the return.
 
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I think I found and error maybe in the parts list?? Inlet vs. Outlet hose #4..... From post #26 over at L club.

"Stock hose from AT to radiator can stay. I need to update parts list on first post".

That to me is Outlet hose that is remaining unchanged....

Screen Shot 2020-08-01 at 14.38.00.png

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Here is the parts list.... Shouldn't we not be ordering the outlet hose?

EDIT: DO NOT ORDER THIS PART. Not needed. 32943-35040 QTY:1 (NO. 4 OIL COOLER INLET HOSE) NOTE: Not needed as stock inlet hose can just stay in place.
 

Acrad

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Looks like we have a schematic discrepancy here from the 2010 FSM.

I do know after ordering all those parts that PN was leftover and is still in the OEM bag.

Just checked an updated '14 FSM I have and this makes it more clear.

No. 4 here is listed as "inlet" and is also shown "*a" below which is shown as the top connection on the radiator which is the same line I did not change.

Screen Shot 2020-08-01 at 1.47.27 PM.jpg
Screen Shot 2020-08-01 at 1.47.33 PM.jpg
 
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OK cool.

I ended up ordering that hose as well.... I used your oem links (if that's your links) and that hose wasn't removed from post #4 at L Club. Totally ok with me, seeing that things are labeled a little differently. We can check to see what hose I end up leftover 😂
 

Acrad

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Yeah... that's mine. I'm Acrad over on CL. It makes for a clean and protected install even if you don't use the OEM cooler. Most of the lines have a braded loom covering on them.
 
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I installed the OEM cooler and pulled a 3500 lb trailer over the weekend while monitoring AT temps using OBDLink. There are two transmission temp parameters - one that climbs dramatically when lockup goes false, and one that changes much more slowly and is always lower. Where are these two parameters sensed?

I assume #1 (the higher and more rapidly responsive one) is the transmission outlet to the cooler, and #2 (slower to change and always lower) is the cooler outlet / trans return?

I did not have the thermal valve pinned.

I saw temps of ~205F as long as lockup was true, but it would shoot up to 215 - 220 pretty quickly if lockup was false.
 
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That’s pretty good actually. I pulled that camper from the picture above from Loveland to Cheyenne and my temps would get up to 250 if I wasn’t careful. 3800 lbs and a 20-30 knot headwind. Once I got on the highway on level ground it was right around 206F.

I believe you are correct on those temps it’s pre-and post cooler.
 
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I was also watching the thermal degradation estimate number - it seems to increment anytime there is sustained temp above 210. In 800 miles of towing, it incremented from 2649 to 2655.
 

Acrad

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The hotter one is somewhere near the torque converter and the cooler one is near the pan on the valve body.
 
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I don’t think so. I think you have to reset it with tech stream, and the Toyota literature has some rules you’re suppose to have followed before you reset - like drain/replace more than 50% of the fluid or something like that.
 

Acrad

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That is what I have seen in FSM as well. A reset is available in TS. This parameter showed up with 14+ models.
 

Acrad

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I've seen a few on GXOR in slow & go off-road...probably not in 4L get this one. Fluid temp was pushed to over 300 degrees. I have to look again but doesn't reset until below ~270 degree range. It is in a thread somewhere. I've yet to see anyone draining fluid on a 460 over 25K miles that is still translucent in any way.


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