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Tranny & Ranger install madness!!!

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by CruiserMax, Aug 19, 2006.

  1. CruiserMax

    CruiserMax

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    Well we went back at my 55 with the Ranger-4speed-tcase install. What a nightmare! WE can't get the fawking input shaft in front of the Ranger Overdrive to push into the pilot bearing. The extra mass of the Ranger is sure complicating this task.

    Part of the problem is the extra length that the Ranger adds: the back of the tcase is bumping up against the rounded part of the rear tranny cover opening. It is preventing us from tilting the rear of the case upwards. This part of the floor is already bent. I think we need to cut this open to allow the rear of the tcase to tilt more when we slide this sucker in. We are using an engine hoist and a tranny jack.

    Thinking about buying some longer "guide bolts" for the hellhousing today. What size and thread count are these bolts? The truck and bolts are at Rodeny's place so I can't bring them with me when I get the "guide bolts."

    Also, should we add some RTV to the heads of the flywheel bolts? And will loosening the bolts that hold the pressure plate help getting the tranny to side in?

    This is driving us nuts!!!!

    Thanks!

    Max
     
  2. Mark W

    Mark W

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    Loosening the PP bolts will not help. Did you use a pilot shaft to line up the clutch disc exactly so that the input shaft will not be off center on the pilot bearing at the end of the crank? If not, you will want to do so. You can pick these up at most parts stores.

    You can remove the rear motor mounts from the bell housing and drop the back of the motor to help line up the tranny assembly more easily.

    Don't bother adding sealant to the heads of the flywheel bolts. Sealant or locktite to the threads of the bolts however is a very good idea.


    Mark...
     
  3. CruiserMax

    CruiserMax

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    Thanks Mark,

    We used a "kit" clutch alignment tool. I will redo that to check on things though. The extra length of the Ranger is a real bitch. We will be adding a third person next time so hopefully this sucker will go in. Are longer "guide bolts" a good idea?

    Good to see you last week Mark!

    Cheers,

    Max
     
  4. Mark W

    Mark W

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    Longer guide bolts can't hurt. Unless they prevent you from having enough room to get the tranny in straight... :(

    I have never foiund them to help much myself. I will however use screwdrivers and tapered punches through the bolt holes to help twist and manuver the tranny to line it up. Just don't get carried away with really muscleing it around this way and damage any of the threads.

    Lots of patience and a willingness to do the same thing over and over again while hoping for different results is sometimes the only way to get it in. :(

    Pay LOTS of attention to making sure that things really are perfectly lined up as you try to get it in. It can be deceptive and you really do need it lined up perfectly.


    Mark...
     
  5. CruiserMax

    CruiserMax

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    Do you know what size(thread etc) the housing bolts are?

    Max
     
  6. mel lowe

    mel lowe Cruiserjunktion@gmail.com Supporting Vendor GOLD Star

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  7. Poser

    Poser Oh...Durka Durka Durka. s-Moderator Supporting Vendor

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    Did you make sure to slip fit the pilot bearing on the input shaft BEFORE you installed the pilot bearing into the end of the crank?



    If you did not do this, it is very possible that the OD of the input shaft on the Ranger is too large to slip into the bearing...
     
  8. Poser

    Poser Oh...Durka Durka Durka. s-Moderator Supporting Vendor

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    12mmx1.25



    Good luck!


    -Steve



    FYI-


    If you have an 'extra' four speed trans and tcase combo, you can use two of the longer three bolts that hold the case onto the four speed tranny after cutting the head off.... ;)
     
  9. CruiserMax

    CruiserMax

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    No, but the new and old bearing looked identical though...
     
  10. Poser

    Poser Oh...Durka Durka Durka. s-Moderator Supporting Vendor

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    Just because the look identical, does not mean that the inside bore diameter is identical...


    I know many people that have not fitted the pilot bearing to the input shaft of the tranny before installing the piolt bearing, only to find that the input shaft would not slip into the bearing and that the input shaft needed to be sanded down with emery cloth to make the new bearing fit.
     
  11. CruiserMax

    CruiserMax

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    Mel, that looks like a pretty cool idea. I will try that. Can you expain in a little more detail about the loosening of the rear motor mounts? How much and and much motor movement are we talking about to make the tranny combo slide in more easily?

    Thanks,
    Max
     
  12. mel lowe

    mel lowe Cruiserjunktion@gmail.com Supporting Vendor GOLD Star

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    I lowered it about an inch....

    I removed the rear mounts from the bell housing after supporting the engine weight with a floor jack.

    After loosening the front mounts, I lowered the rear very slowly.

    Be very careful doing this........

    My worn front mounts broke, leaving the engine supported by only the jack and the firewall.

    I should have loosened them alot more than I did......
    2f.JPG
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2006
  13. Mark W

    Mark W

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    This is what I was refering to when I suggested removing the mounts from the bellhousing. With something as long as the Tcase/tranny/ranger aseembly, you may have to do this. Interference between the firwall and the back of the engine will limit just how far you can tip it. But it should be far enough.


    Mark...
     
  14. Degnol

    Degnol

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    X2......and I was just trying to put a 4 speed in a '66 but ran into x-member clearance. Poser told me to drop the motor down. I did not loosen the front motor mounts, but they were relatively new. I also started out using "guide bolts" but ended up taking them out and just concentraing on getting the tranny input shaft in place then rotating until the holes lined up.

    GL on the swap!:bounce: :bounce2:

    Ed
     
  15. CruiserMax

    CruiserMax

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    Mucho thanks to all that have responded with words of wisdom.

    We will try variations of all of the above. If none of this works we will then try the ultimate solution that we have discussed: mass quantities of gasoline and a match!!!
     
  16. Pin_Head

    Pin_Head

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    Knowing how far the tranny needs to go can be a big help in identifying the problem.

    2 inches or more: The splines of the input shaft and the clutch aren't engaging, so you need to rotate the output shaft on the transfer case to get them to engage.

    1 inch or less: The nose of the tranny isn't fitting into the pilot bearing because they aren't lined up properly. Have someone step on the clutch pedal to release the clutch disk, while you wiggle the tranny so the the nose can slip in.
     
  17. CruiserMax

    CruiserMax

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    Thanks for this: We got it pretty close a couple of times; maybe two inches?

    I think a fresh day, new knowledge and an extra person will get her done as they say.

    Max
     
  18. Mark W

    Mark W

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    If you put the tranny and the T/C in gear this will allow you to turn the inputshaft by spinning the parking brake drum. This can assit with getting the shaft through the clutch disc.

    A nearly perfect alignment, side to side and top to botom is very very very important to get the input shaft to slip into the pilot bearing. Once you get it close enough to get thread engagement you can gently pull the transmission into position by tightening the bolts evenly. Don't force it if it doesn't want to go. If it fights you, loosen the bolts a little and try to shift it around and then tighten up again.


    Mark...
     
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