Tranny hump

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Jan 22, 2003
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I have a '75 FJ40 with the gas tank under the passenger seat and the last when removing the tranny hump I also had to remove the gas tank too, is there any trick not to remove the gas tank?

I'm removing the tranny/xfercase combo. Thanks.

/td
 
Joined
Oct 19, 2004
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dont bolt down the tunnel cover where the tank is next time? Thats about it. You dont need to remove the whole tank btw- just pull up on it to unscrew the bolts, then slide it out. You'll need to remove your seats though.

-Dustin
 
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i'll hump your tranny... hell the kinkier the better....

seriously i couldn't work out how to unbolt it, so i didn't, i ended up trimming it though to get my 4 speed back in.
 
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I'm having the same problem.. I have all the bolts on the hump removed, the seats and the seat bracket removed, the shifter boots removed and I still can't get the hump out.....
 

65swb45

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Should only need to lift the tank 5 or 6 inches to get the clearance needed. Helps to unbolt the front heater and the gas pedal as well.

Good luck.

Mark
 
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The hump is sealed in place so that it is water tight. I had to pry the hump to break the seal. The sealant looked petro-based and was still soft so it resealed when I bolted it back on. Becareful not to bend it when you pry it loose. The gas tank needed to be lifted enough to get a wrench under it. Don't forget the bolts under the heater.
 
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Are there bolt holding the gas tank in place.. I know I've removed all the bolts on the hump is loose I can wiggle it around in every direction .. So I should just pry the gastank up a few inches to get the hump off??
 

DSRTRDR

I can mangle anything ...
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The gas tank is held in place by two straps, loosen those and you can lift the front up. A few inches will be enough. Heater removal is necessary, but you don't have to disconnect the water lines, just slide it into the passenger foot area.

If the seal becomes damaged or is brittle, you should put something into its place before you cover up again; at least to keep the heat out.
 
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I did have to remove my tank to get the hump off. Just lifting the tank slightly did not work on mine. I figured it was a good idea anyways to inspect and paint the tank while it was/is out.
 
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The reason I unbolted the hump on my truck was to remove and replace the t-case. The hump did not have to be removed, only able to be lifted a few inches. I left the shift lever in place and undid the linkage from under the truck. I was somewhat surprised that the designers made it this way. If the hump was a few inshes longer the t-case could have been removed without involving the hump.
 
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Well I am removing the hump to install a transfercase brace, while I'm in there and have access I think I'll install a twin stick transfercase shifter...
 

rusty_tlc

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Relix said:
Well I am removing the hump to install a transfercase brace, while I'm in there and have access I think I'll install a twin stick transfercase shifter...
Why?
 
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DenverCruiser said:
I did have to remove my tank to get the hump off. Just lifting the tank slightly did not work on mine. I figured it was a good idea anyways to inspect and paint the tank while it was/is out.
This did not work for me neither that why I asked at first. I will a mental note to drain the gasoline from the main tank outside before getting the truck into the garage.

/td
 

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