I'm extracting this sub-topic from an earlier thread.
I installed (Slee's) full OME suspension last weekend - zero vibrations and the ride and return-to-center characteristics are perfect, so I'm glad I did the caster bushings "up front". Only now I'm beginning to obsess over CruiserDan's comment from a similar situation-
"The only other thing I changed is the rear track bar. I got an adjustable one from Christo. I probably didn't need it as I'm not that tall, but my rear axle was shifted slightly to one side, which offended me."
I also offend easily, but I don't want to "over-solve" what may be an issue with ZERO functional impact. If we know in advance how much "shift" is typically induced by the 2.5 lift, or if it can easily be measured after the install, wouldn't it be possible to cut & lengthen the track bar (Panhard rod?) to compensate? I'm looking for a quick, simple, cheap, robust, cut & splice approach, based on a standard rule of thumb - like the 5mm or .25" downward adjustment of the rear brake valve that goes with a 2.5" lift. Also, why wouldn't it be necessary to lengthen the front bar too? How would you measure the relative shift? Pros and Cons?
Thanks CruiserDan and all, BigMac
I installed (Slee's) full OME suspension last weekend - zero vibrations and the ride and return-to-center characteristics are perfect, so I'm glad I did the caster bushings "up front". Only now I'm beginning to obsess over CruiserDan's comment from a similar situation-
"The only other thing I changed is the rear track bar. I got an adjustable one from Christo. I probably didn't need it as I'm not that tall, but my rear axle was shifted slightly to one side, which offended me."
I also offend easily, but I don't want to "over-solve" what may be an issue with ZERO functional impact. If we know in advance how much "shift" is typically induced by the 2.5 lift, or if it can easily be measured after the install, wouldn't it be possible to cut & lengthen the track bar (Panhard rod?) to compensate? I'm looking for a quick, simple, cheap, robust, cut & splice approach, based on a standard rule of thumb - like the 5mm or .25" downward adjustment of the rear brake valve that goes with a 2.5" lift. Also, why wouldn't it be necessary to lengthen the front bar too? How would you measure the relative shift? Pros and Cons?
Thanks CruiserDan and all, BigMac