Toyota Pulleys on GM PS pumps

bsevans

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Here are two ideas for those that want to run the stock Toyota belt on their GM Power Steering pumps with 3/4" press on shafts.

The first solution I've posted photos of. It is a Toyota Power Steering pulley that had a keyed hub. The hub is welded to the pulley and is easily removed with a lathe. The photos are reposted below.

The second solution is the use of a four bolt smog pump pulley using a another custom hub. The hub is constructed from Corrosion-Resistant Aircraft-Grade Aluminum
Alloy (7075). 7075 is one of the hardest, strongest aluminum alloys and is ideal for high-stress parts. The hub utilizes the standard GM installation and removal tools for power steering pump pulleys. The hub has a centering step for the pulley and four ¼-20 tapped holes. There is enough material on the back side of the hub for another centering step which would give you four different locations for the center of the pulley as the pulley mounting flange is offset from the center of the v groove. I use the Classic Cruiser bracket that utilizes the two head bolts for my PS Pump. The bracket came with clearance holes for the head bolts and does not have slots like most other brackets. I just finished the hub tonight and will post pictures of it installed tomorrow.

The Factory power steering pulley is larger in diameter than the GM PS pulley I’ve been using by better than ½”. The Toyota smog pump pulley is only 1/8” smaller in diameter than the GM PS pulley.

Both Toyota pulley setups required a spacer for the factory air pump to relocate the pulley to align it with the front crank pulley in my setup.
Power Steering Pump Pulley 06.jpg
Power Steering Pump Pulley 01.jpg
Power Steering Pump Pulley 03.jpg
 
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bsevans

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Smog Pump Pulley

Here are some of the photos of the hub and pulley
Power Steering Pump Pulley Hub 04.jpg
Power Steering Pump Pulley Hub 05.jpg
Power Steering Pump Pulley Hub 07.jpg
 

bsevans

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Spacer for the air pump pulley

Additional photos
Air Pump Pulley Spacer 08.jpg
Air Pump Pulley Spacer 05.jpg
Air Pump Pulley Spacer 03.jpg
 
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So how much did all that cost? Looks real good...
 

bsevans

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grant5127 said:
So how much did all that cost? Looks real good...
The first press on hub for the Toyota power steering pulley was purchased from Canton Racing products for approximately $25 (p/n 73-273F). I had to take a boring bar and enlarge the hole to .747 as it had a .661 ID for the pump shafts they use. I then purchased a 3" dia. x 1" t disk of 7075 from McMaster Carr for $20 and turned one to fit the power steering pulley. The 3.5" dia. x 1" t 7075 disk for the smog pump pulley was $26 from the same source. The spacer for the three bolt smog pump pulley was made from a 2" dia. piece of 6061 T6 that I had (~$5). The two disks of 7075 are on the expensive side compared to 6061 T651 which is about half the cost. I picked 7075 over 6061 because of the difference in ultimate tensile strength (83 ksi vs. 45 ksi), yield strength (70 ksi vs. 40 ksi) and machinability.
 

bsevans

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brew8 said:
Nice if you happen to have a lathe handy, cheers, Larry
I'm fortunate to have a friend that is way ahead of most of us in the "the most toys" race. The shop on his property is 40'x60'x14' and would make most any woodworker, machinist or welder feel like they need to make something. He, his wife and I retired from the same company and have known each other for over 20 years.

EDIT: I was incorrect about the size of his shop. It is only 30' x 50' x 14'.
 
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bsevans

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Smog Pump Pulley mounted

Photos mounted and running
Power Steering Pump Pulley 08.jpg
Power Steering Pump Pulley 09.jpg
Power Steering Pump Pulley 14.jpg
 

bsevans

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More Photos
Power Steering Pump Pulley 11.jpg
Power Steering Pump Pulley 13.jpg
 

bsevans

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Additional photos
Power Steering Pump Pulley 10.jpg
Power Steering Pump Pulley 12.jpg
 

bsevans

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Aluminum pulley to reduce the mass.

EDIT: I've been running a GM pulley with a GM belt for a number of years and had become used to the belt noise from two different width belts running on the crank and water pump pulleys. When I started the 40 up, the first thing I noticed was just how quiet the engine was with two factory width belts. Needless to say, the effort was well worth it as I'm very happy with this conversion.
Power Steering Pump Pulley 17.jpg
 
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bsevans

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Aluminum pulley to reduce the mass.

EDIT: I've been running a GM pulley with a GM belt for a number of years and had become used to the belt noise from two different width belts running on the crank and water pump pulleys. When I started the 40 up, the first thing I noticed was just how quiet the engine was with two factory width belts. Needless to say, the effort was well worth it as I'm very happy with this conversion.

Well for those of you out there looking for a setup to run a Toyota factory belt with your GM pump, I found a solution you may like. Classic Cruisers makes press on hubs that mount the factory water pump dual pulley. They make one hub that aligns the water pump pulley when you use their upper bracket as shown in the photos. They also make a press on hub that aligns the water pump pulley when mounting the pump in place of the smog pump. The price of the two different mounts (upper or lower) is $149.95. The price for the press on hub and a reconditioned pulley (sandblasted, powder coated and checked for straightness/roundness) is $95.
Classic Cruisers
 
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Call me simple(and cheap), but I went to the junkyard and bought a Volvo junk pump(saginaw) from an early-mid 80's 240DL(suggestion courtesy of PinHead) for $5, pressed off the old hub and pulley and pressed it back on my reman Sag pump.
Cooler, you might try that. I'll get you one if there are no dead Vulvas in your neighborhood.;)

Ed

I run Toyota OEM alternator belts on both the PS and alternator. Guess what? no more rubber particles lining my hood!
 

Coolerman

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I would appreciate that very much! Around here they think that any part from any junk car is worth 70% of the cost of a new one. PM me with details about costs.

OT I just came through Kansas City twice in the past two weeks. Coming and going while camping in Colorado...
 

bsevans

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Call me simple(and cheap), but I went to the junkyard and bought a Volvo junk pump(saginaw) from an early-mid 80's 240DL(suggestion courtesy of PinHead) for $5, pressed off the old hub and pulley and pressed it back on my reman Sag pump.
Cooler, you might try that. I'll get you one if there are no dead Vulvas in your neighborhood.;)

Ed

I run Toyota OEM alternator belts on both the PS and alternator. Guess what? no more rubber particles lining my hood!

The Volvo pulley is not the same width as the Toyota pulley and the belt will run high in the V groove. Yes I know it will work, but I wanted a pulley that was designed for the 17mm Toyota belt. I have a Volvo pulley, hub and backing plate if anyone would rather do that. The other issue is alignment. The Volvo pulley and hub do not line up with either the front or rear crank pulley using Classic Cruisers brackets. I tried it on the upper bracket and was not happy with the results.
 
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The Volvo pulley is not the same width as the Toyota pulley and the belt will run high in the V groove. Yes I know it will work, but I wanted a pulley that was designed for the 17mm Toyota belt. I have a Volvo pulley, hub and backing plate if anyone would rather do that. The other issue is alignment. The Volvo pulley and hub do not line up with either the front or rear crank pulley using Classic Cruisers brackets. I tried it on the upper bracket and was not happy with the results.


With Bill Dorry's bracket and part of the mounting bracket that came with the Vulva pump mine lines up perfectly. Riding a little high in the groove beats too deep;)

Ed
 
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With Bill Dorry's bracket and part of the mounting bracket that came with the Vulva pump mine lines up perfectly. Riding a little high in the groove beats too deep;)

Ed

On a previous truck, I used to call it "brown truck" I went to the bother of turning a complete pulley from 7075 T6 aluminum on my lathe. I cut the groove to the precise dimension of a Toyota belt using my indexing collet holder bolted to the table of my 9" x 48" Bridgeport and using a bit that I ground from a 1" endmill on my K.O Lee precision tool grinder. The slowest part was cutting the groove as it meant high bit speeds along with slow powered rotation in the indexing fixture. 7075 is better than 6061 but both are gummy compared to steel and load bits up too easily for my preferences, but that's just me. Anyway the whole project was a Big hassle, but boy was it perfect and I was kinda' glad about how I'd figured out cutting that circumferential groove. It took forever though.

The truck I'm putting together now, I call it 'white truck' has a Vulva pulley from the same place the pump mounting bracket came from - the local junkyard. Works just as well though I guess the belt is about .040" higher in the vulva groove than the perfect one was. Can't tell for sure 'cause the pulley left with the truck some 12 years ago. The bracket I got didn't line up quite right at first but a simple little spacer cut from a piece of oil hardened steel stock fixed that in about 15 minutes.
 

bsevans

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Well, I recently converted to the Classic Cruiser press-on hub and their reconditioned dual water pump pulley. I did modify the hub to accept a tool to remove GM power steering pulleys. I did this because I found with the groove neither the radiator or the power steering pump need to be removed to remove the hub/pulley. I was hoping I could modify the hub I made for the 4-bolt to also work with the water pump pulley but it was not meant to be.
Power Steering Pump Pulley 25.jpg
Power Steering Pump Pulley 27.jpg
Power Steering Pump Pulley 28.jpg
 

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