Toyota Power Steering (1 Viewer)

[Degnol]

I've located a power steering box from an '83 4Runner. The yard wants $75 for it, and that sounds reasonable. I intend to run a GM pump because of cost and because it puts out higher pressure than the Toyo. I'm only running 31's, and I'm not a rockcrawler...not too many rocks here in MO.
From all I've read, this box ought to work. I can fab a bracket for the box. I've got a '66FJ40 with the old steering column, so I have to cut the column and install a rag joint. The outer tube on my column runs right into the box, so will I have to fab a support for that? Or will the rag joint be enough stability? I was thinking about putting a boot over the tube/steering shaft.
Kinda thinking out loud here, check my reasoning, please.
Don't want the Scout or Saginaw setup.
Ed Long

 

[rick_d]

When TLC van nuys installs a column system, they often take a later column like 1973+ and weld the outer tube to a flange plate that covers the oval firewall access hole. If you decide to go this route you can upgrade the entire column, steering wheel etc (I would not keep the '66 stuff). I wish I had a close up photo- there may be one on the tlc4x4.com site or ask for an image via email (can't hurt).

the '66 steering wheel will not fit the '73+ column so you will need the whole system. You will have to splice in the turn signal/horn connections but they are a better system than E-1972 anyway.

You will also have to suffer with the E-1969 pin type center arm which you should expect to OH every 2 years or 15,000 miles.

The bracket you could make, buy JT outfitters, buy Hadleys recut OEM bracket, or another sourced on (Classic Cruisers?).

 

[Degnol]

Thanks for the reply, and let me ask you another question. If I were to change out the center arm for the later tapered center arm, are the tie rods going to work? Seems like they would. This cruiser won't see 15K in two years so maybe I'd be better off rebuilding the old style. I've about adjusted it all that I can. The tierod ends are new, my manual steering box is tight, I put all new seals in the knuckles and checked the wheel bearings, so any steering slop would be in the centerarm, right? I'm really holding out for a disc brake axle to swap out.
Ed

 

[Degnol]

Thanks for the reply, and let me ask you another question. If I were to change out the center arm for the later tapered center arm, are the tie rods going to work? Seems like they would. This cruiser won't see 15K in two years so maybe I'd be better off rebuilding the old style. I've about adjusted it all that I can. The tierod ends are new, my manual steering box is tight, I put all new seals in the knuckles and checked the wheel bearings, so any steering slop would be in the centerarm, right? I'm really holding out for a disc brake axle to swap out.
Ed

 

[Pin_Head]

$75 for a used push-pull box sounds steep. They go for $25-30 out here on the left coast and there are lost of them for sale on the POR board.

 

[Guest]

$75 is high. I just picked up a box from local yard for $20.
Don't pay more than you have to.
Jeff

 

[rick_d]

It's possible to swap and early for late center arm, but be well aware the later units have a different mount angle to crossmember than the early and a support plate will have to go in the frame horn.

Mini boxes here are $65 and I would not buy one with over 160K on it. 255K has got to be sloppy, 300K worse yet.

Because of the issues and the fact it's just an early 40 I would move to saginaw or 60/scout over mini/OE PS. If you had a 45 wagon or pick up (removable top) I would try a little harder not to GM it.