towing electrical problems

[dsmith]

just returned from Laguna Beach towing an airstream 22ccd,i installed a hidden hitch in canada and a prodigy ,tow rite sway control -problem when i stop for gas or anything the lights will not turn off, and the rear wiper goes on and cannot be turned off untill i remove the trailer connector,talked to airstream they said i need a battery isolator as power is flowing back to the car, camperworld said they had never heard of the problem, another tech said install a diode.

help would be appreciated

david

 

[DMX84]

I don’t think I have a diode, and that’s not happening to me. I’m using a 7 way connector, what is yours?

 

[e9999]

yup, got similar problem with the 03. Bad design on the Toy. Evidently, the power ran back from the battery in the our trailer to keep some dashboard stuff on. Fawkers at the local Toy dealer would not help. So finally I ended up putting a relay in the battery charging wire of the 7 pin connector to physically disconnect the battery in the trailer from the truck when the key is off. I would not leave it as is, for fear of the electronics being damaged.
I must have described this in detail someplace.

 

[DMX84]

Is that limited to only the 03’s?

 

[dsmith]

electrical problem

yes i have a 7 pin, idid disconnect the trailer battery and all was well therefore it must be the trailer power flowing back to the car, the question is what is the best solution for this problem.

david

 

[Pigeon]

Theres a recall out there on the trailer harness.

 

[dsmith]

electrical

talked to another tech and he said that i must have a ground short, i am now back home in canada and will try to solve the problem - thanks to those who replied

david

 

[DMX84]

The white wire should be the ground. And if it’s not working well I would think you should also get a ground connection through the receiver/ball.
I have my doubts that a ground fault will cause your condition.

 

[dsmith]

electrical problems

it is confusing but i will try to find a competant electrician and sort it out unless you have a different sugestion

david

 

[DMX84]

it is confusing but i will try to find a competant electrician and sort it out unless you have a different sugestion

david

David go to Radio Shack, they have answers.

Also, about the supposed ground issue, do all your lights, electric brakes, etc work? Not a ground issue IMO. Try a diode on your positive cable (should be black). This is only going to cost ~$1.90. Then rig a simple test lead and put in line on your charge wire, and try duplicating your problem. If it doesn’t work let us know. If it does then you will want to solder it in place somewhere out of harms way. I can help you if you haven’t soldered before.
Dean

 

[e9999]

a diode eh? I didn't think about that when I was struggling with mine...
is this reliable enough over long periods of time?
heat issues?
and how much voltage would one lose?

 

[dsmith]

electrical problem

yes i was told about the diode, and the problem was rectified when i removed the pos terminal from the trailer battery which means as far as i can see that power is being sent to the car from the trailer battery, one tech even said a battery isolator would also work, im still trying to figure that one out, but i do think a diode may be the answer apart from the voltage drop again thanks hope i can get it resolved

david

 

[DMX84]

a diode eh? I didn't think about that when I was struggling with mine...
is this reliable enough over long periods of time?
heat issues?
and how much voltage would one lose?

E- You get what you pay for. A good isolator will be a little expensive, but you also can get a cheaper one. But if you aren’t using a trailer but every once in a while then the cheaper one will probably do. I also don’t think voltage drop is an issue with an isolator/diode because it will allow the isolated battery to get charged only.

 

[dsmith]

electrical

the only issue that stops me from putting in a diode is that i have been told by more than one tech that the real problem is a short in one of the wires, or two wires touching, seing the cord from the lexus is moulded they told me to cut this off and replace it with one that can be opened this way all the wires could be checked

david

 

[DMX84]

I disagree.

 

[dsmith]

electrical problem

thanks for all your advice Dean i will get the diode and see what happens, why dont other vehicles have this problem? anyway i will try and tackle the problem this weekend.

david

 

[DMX84]

E9999 alluded to the fact that he had something going on.

But from what is described by you I suspect it’s the voltage getting back to your vehicle and the diode will prevent that. E9999 used a relay to kill the circuit
Perhaps there is a diode in the factory wiring harness and that’s why most of us are not having this problem? - Unless there’s a problem?
The diode is a cheap test, and letting someone do some diag on you electrical system is going to be $$.
I think I have an isolator lying around if you want to barrow it & try it and see if it works for you.

Question, are you using an aftermarket trailer light converter or the factory unit? If it’s the factory one is it the newer type? IE: is routed up into the rear wheel well by the tail lamp? If you have the old style (mounted underneath the car above the spare tire), than get rid of it, its buttco, mine was all corroded internally and didn’t work at all. (This is covered by a recall).

 

[dsmith]

electrical problem

Dean i thought the recal was for the years 1996-1999? mine is 2004 i will check anyway were did you splice to install a new harness and were did you put the diode? it seems that some of the hitch shops have heard about the trailer wiring, one told me it was a nightmare, its Saturday morning and i will try and find the parts but the last time i checked uhaul only carry butco products.

again thanks Dean will crawl under the car today and get back to you

david

 

[DMX84]

Yes, I think you are correct about the recall; I was not sure what year you rig was.
I have no diode in my unit, seems to be a problem with some new LC/LXs’?
What I’m saying is just try a diode with a simple splice somewhere easy to access, preferably without having to hack the wiring. I think I will even work on the ground wire (this may be the easiest for the test) - you will not be able to put the trailer on the ball as this will complete the ground circuit.
Are you able to duplicate the issue in the driveway with out having to drive the car?
Who installed the 7 way? If someone else did it then check the connections, most of the time they use the U-haul connectors that cut into the wire and make a connection. They are ok for a while, but usually fail after a while, especially if they are subjected to the elements. I think if you have a short somewhere it could possibly be in the 7way itself. You can check that pretty easy just by removing the small Philips screw on the side and slide the wires through the front. Look for a strand of wire that maybe sticking out that can touch another conductor. I would check both ends. I still don’t think it a short.

What do you mean about the trailer wiring being a nightmare? The 100 or the camper?

 

[dsmith]

electrical problem

Dean i live victoria bc went to uhaul yesterday the installer has a forerunner he told me his harness wiring was not very good, when he saw my car he said quote-not another one- he had done 2 landcruisers year unknown but he said they were using his memory 2001 and 2003, after working on them he advised the owners to just put in a new harnes--
yes i can duplicate my problem in my driveway if i startup the car plug in the trailer then stop the car remove the key the dash lights and headlights will stay on and my rear winshield wiper will move slowly back and forth, remove the plug everything is ok, start up plug in turn off ignition, remove pos battery terminal from trailer battery everything ok--power is therefore coming back from the trailer, trailer schematic shows the pos and ground leave the trailer side and return to battery on trailer.

david