Tow Strap Quick Question (1 Viewer)

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Do i need hooks to use a tow strap, could i just sort of loop it onto itself. If not where can i buy some cheap tow hooks from?
 
hadji,

I take it you missed the thread this week about cheap recovery points, danger, how it's the source of global warming, high gas prices and backcountry vehicle access closures, eh?

The better tow straps have a cloth loop at each end - no hook -, which is preferred. In recovery with a hooked strap it's not IF the strap will come off once in a while, but WHEN. And when it happens, you don't want a 1lb hook rocketing at the back of your head.

So, get an all fabric strap and a pair of stout over rated shackles that let you either hook it to your factory loops, or loop it onto itself on the other end with the shackle as the attaching point to reattach - for instance around the stuck's axle.

This way, the strap is positively attached at both ends, not a simple open hook that can be nudged off by dragging on a rock, etc.

DougM
 
I bought a cloth tow strap with close loops at the end. Do i need a couple things like this
93856.gif
or could i just pass the tow rope through a closed look (like on the lc) and then pass the tow strap through its own closed loop thereby not need a shackle at all. kind of like you do with those tags for luggage.
 
the strap with tighten on itself if you loop it thru, and take you an hour to loosen...lol...much better to use a rated quality screw-type clevis similar to what you have shown...they run $10ish each, I carry about 3 in each of my vehicle recovery bags.
 
You'll need at least 1 shackle, Hadji. Think it through and you'll realize you cannot pass it through itself like the luggage strap (excellent visual, BTW) on both ends. As what's-his-name points out, that strategy will also have the strap tighten itself incredibly, making removal time consuming.

Get ridiculously over rated shackles and don't buy unrated everyday ones for general use - the rated weight should be permanently molded into the shackle unless you're unequivocally certain of the honesty of the source of the shackle. For reference, the WARN recovery kit I won at an offroad event has shackles marked "4 3/4 ton" and "3/4". The 3/4 refers to the thickness of the threaded pin. These things are huge - about 5 inches long. That is a safe working load for using it all the time every day. The actual breaking strength is most likely 5 times that, but that's the kind of margin you should be comfortable with.

The recovery strap it came with is smaller than my biggest 27,000lb rated strap, but I don't know the actual rating. Others here may have this same blue Warn strap and be able to chime in.

Go big on recovery gear. Learn by searching what the dangers and correct procedures are because it's usually the person helping the stuck that gets hurt.

DougM
 
I bought a cloth tow strap with close loops at the end. Do i need a couple things like this
93856.gif
or could i just pass the tow rope through a closed look (like on the lc) and then pass the tow strap through its own closed loop thereby not need a shackle at all. kind of like you do with those tags for luggage.

Not that it would not work, but that is a Stainless steel marine/sailboat shackle. probably too small size wise for any off road work. of course can't tell the rateing just looking at photo.
 
I've been looking around (at some autoparts store, home depot, and tractor supply company) and all i could find was this type of hook rated at 10k lb's.
grade%2070%20slip%20hook%20copy.gif

The capacity of the hook seems fine, but is this style a bad choice?

Also does the tow strap have to go where that pin is with the hook at where the tow recovery point of the vehicle is? Or can the tow strap be on the hook and the recovery point of the vehicle be where the pin is?
 
You DO NOT want to attach a hook to the end of your strap.

Your strap would not fit through that hook anyway.


If you have the OEM tow hook on your rig (mounted to face upward) then just drop the loop of the starp over that. If you have one of these hooks on each rig, you don't need anything else.

Otherwise you need some sort of attachment point. Looping the strap around a bumper or an axle is not a real good option (although sometimes you do what you have to do...).


Mark...
 
I would not use a hook, do not skimp on this stuff as it could cause damage or dismemberment. Find a couple of rated shackles. Maybe try a rigging company? Or order some from a 'mud vendor, if you can't find any local to you.
 
alll I say dont wrap it arould a bump or something. The coners always seem to cut them up and let them go flying
 
you can find serious D or anchor shackles at some regular hardware stores.
 
I don't know enough to assume, so I wouldn't. A 9k lb winch would be the minimum used on an 80 series, and a snatch strap will exert much more force than a winch.
 
Cruiser Outfitters has some HUGE recovery D-shackles...these things look like they'd rip the frame out from under a 40 with the right mount points. Seriously do it right or don't do it at all...I happen to have the stock hooks mark mentioned but as soon as I can get a lil more money I'll be doing mounts and d-loops the right way for sure!
 
i bought the one i posted, it is pretty freakin massive. This is the biggest bow-shackle that i have found online and in the stores so i'm assuming its the correct one to use

If someone knows of a bigger dshackle online send me the link so i can see it and decide whether or not to get the bigger one.
 
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also its a 20mm bow type shackle with 7/8" pin diameter, i saw one with a 5/8" pin rated at 13k lbs
 
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the warn one is only rated 4 3/4 tons, its too expensive looks like i'll pay the shipping and still be ahead
 
Good call. Go for the 3/4 hardened pin that has the 13,000lb load and you will be fine or go with the 1" 15,000lb clevis and never worry. I think the rule of thumb is to get equipment that has 1.5 times the working load of the fully loaded vehicle, so if your cruiser weighs 6,000lb. your equipment should be able to handle 9,000lb loads. I usually go double on the working limits of my stuff just to be over cautious. I'm suprised the Warn is so expensive and has a lower rating. Guess we pay for the advertising and the name. Problem solved.

And sorry if I was a bit obtuse to you earlier. Just showing concern for your safety.
 

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