Tough Dog Lift Question - Driver's side lean 1"

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Joined
Mar 12, 2019
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Location
Houston
Question for those that have installed TD lifts, I had the lift installed on my 2017 LC last week at the local Toyota dealer and have a 1" lean to the drivers side (i.e. driver's side is 1" lower than passenger side, front and rear) that won't correct. I've tried resetting the kdss and also the method of putting the block under the high side rear tire, no luck. Not sure if settling over time would correct. As instructed, the dealer put the taller RH spring on the passenger side, consistent with what it seems most folks on this forum have done, but could this be creating the lean in my case? If anyone here has run into this issue, did you find a fix? Would swapping the rear springs help correct (so the taller RH spring on the driver's side)?
 
Question for those that have installed TD lifts, I had the lift installed on my 2017 LC last week at the local Toyota dealer and have a 1" lean to the drivers side (i.e. driver's side is 1" lower than passenger side, front and rear) that won't correct. I've tried resetting the kdss and also the method of putting the block under the high side rear tire, no luck. Not sure if settling over time would correct. As instructed, the dealer put the taller RH spring on the passenger side, consistent with what it seems most folks on this forum have done, but could this be creating the lean in my case? If anyone here has run into this issue, did you find a fix? Would swapping the rear springs help correct (so the taller RH spring on the driver's side)?
What you did is the correct setup. Or at least it was in my 2013 when I did my lift install in 2017. You're not the first to note the same issue on this forum recently though.

It's possible TD has made changes and it's no longer correct to ignore the markings and swap them. It's possible the 2016+ has slightly different suspension characteristics or weight distribution which affects the lean. It's possible things will settle a bit after you 500-1000 miles on the suspension.

If the lean doesn't go away after a break-in period, and if you're good with the passenger's side height, I would look at adding some trim-packers to the driver's side rear to level it out. Really that is what they are for. You could swap the springs around if you prefer, though that may result in the driver's side being slightly too tall, in which case you'll need trim-packers for the passenger's side anyway. BTW if you do a rear spring swap or trim-packer adjustment you'll might want to get another alignment once it's settled a bit. At least in my experience where I was about 1.5" too high on the DS with the rears NOT swapped and then swapped the rears I found it had impacted my alignment specs. YMMV.
 
Not running tough dog, running OME 2721 with Kings. Longer spring on the passenger (right) side.

I'd look to make sure the spring is centered on the upper spring seat. If the coil is not on there correctly, it can add additional height.

I've run this exact same set on a '13 and a '16 and there is no difference.

I did experience a lean on my '13 before I was able to open the KDSS shutter valve screws and let it self level.
 
Sometimes weird behavior on these suspensions is caused by rubber bushings having their bolts tightened while the vehicle isn't on the ground. Lower Control Arm bushings, sway bar clamp bushings, etc.. As mentioned above, make sure the rear springs are centered into the upper mounts as well as rotated into the proper divot on the lower mount.

Can you tell if the lean is being caused primarily by the front or the rear?
 
What you did is the correct setup. Or at least it was in my 2013 when I did my lift install in 2017. You're not the first to note the same issue on this forum recently though.

It's possible TD has made changes and it's no longer correct to ignore the markings and swap them. It's possible the 2016+ has slightly different suspension characteristics or weight distribution which affects the lean. It's possible things will settle a bit after you 500-1000 miles on the suspension.

If the lean doesn't go away after a break-in period, and if you're good with the passenger's side height, I would look at adding some trim-packers to the driver's side rear to level it out. Really that is what they are for. You could swap the springs around if you prefer, though that may result in the driver's side being slightly too tall, in which case you'll need trim-packers for the passenger's side anyway. BTW if you do a rear spring swap or trim-packer adjustment you'll might want to get another alignment once it's settled a bit. At least in my experience where I was about 1.5" too high on the DS with the rears NOT swapped and then swapped the rears I found it had impacted my alignment specs. YMMV.

Thanks, was thinking the same that if I swapped the rear spring I may get the lean on the passengers side but wasn't sure. Would adding a trim packer down the road also correct the lean on the front or would I need to consider the strut spacer to balance out?
 
Not running tough dog, running OME 2721 with Kings. Longer spring on the passenger (right) side.

I'd look to make sure the spring is centered on the upper spring seat. If the coil is not on there correctly, it can add additional height.

I've run this exact same set on a '13 and a '16 and there is no difference.

I did experience a lean on my '13 before I was able to open the KDSS shutter valve screws and let it self level.

Thanks, confirmed that the springs are seated correctly. When I noticed the lean I inspected underneath and actually found that the drivers side rear spring wasn't seated correctly and was hoping that would resolve the lean, but when the dealer seated the spring the lean remained about the same.
 
Sometimes weird behavior on these suspensions is caused by rubber bushings having their bolts tightened while the vehicle isn't on the ground. Lower Control Arm bushings, sway bar clamp bushings, etc.. As mentioned above, make sure the rear springs are centered into the upper mounts as well as rotated into the proper divot on the lower mount.

Can you tell if the lean is being caused primarily by the front or the rear?

Interesting, would loosening the bolts and then retightening them possibly help resolve? The dealer i went to does many lift installs, so would assume they would know to tighten/torque once on the ground (but who knows). May have to invest in the proper torque wrenches to do myself or ask the dealer to loosen and retighten while I watch to ensure it's done correctly.

Tough to tell if the lean is primarily front or rear, they're both about 1". Is there way to tell?
 
Measure with a measuring tape from hub center to the wheel arch on a flat surface like the garage floor with the vehicle level. You should be at roughly the same height side to side.
 
You're going to need a real big significant other, or so I suppose. I've just got this tiny one, so what do i know.

IMG_20200924_133811.webp
 
Thanks, was thinking the same that if I swapped the rear spring I may get the lean on the passengers side but wasn't sure. Would adding a trim packer down the road also correct the lean on the front or would I need to consider the strut spacer to balance out?

In my experience, leveling the rear fixed the front.

FWIW the front shouldn't be off once you get the rear situated, as the front springs are the same coil rate and length for each side both in stock form as well as aftermarket.
 
I had a slight lean, 3/4” low at the rear driver side and pretty much level up Front when I was all stock. After adding the tough dog 45mm lift the lean was even more present, about 1.25” low on the Rear driver side and about 1/2” difference at the front.
I ended up adding trim packers (20mm) to try get things level but things were still 3/4” off. Tried every KDSS procescure to level the lean without any success.
I ended up buying a second set of tough dog rear springs to see if same length springs would level things out. In the end I swapped the longer spring to the driver side which leveled things out. The initial measurement after swapping springs still had the driver side 3/8” low but after a month the two sides are now equal and the fronts are within 1/4”.
There is definitely some KDSS witchcraft going on with the 200 series suspension.

This thread details my saga down the rabbit hole of KDSS and suspension lean:

 
I was about 1-1.25" taller on the DS with my taller spring on that side originally. Swapped the taller one to the PS and my rear was level.


I definitely get the feeling sometimes that not all trucks are the same, even when you're looking at identical model years. I found that out when @TRAIL TAILOR supplied my front bumper, for instance - @TonyP and I had the same 2013 MY, but his parking sensors apparently fit but mine would not without enlarging the holes. I know Jason was probably thinking "WTF the parking sensors should be a zero banana job!" Later on I broke a parking sensor grommet and the replacement I received for the 2013 was NOT the same as my originals. It seemed like my factory originals were actually the angled rear grommets, and the replacements were flush.

tl;dr - if you've got a lean or an inch or more in the rear and the higher side has the taller spring, swap your springs and see if that fixes it, then use trim packers to fine-tune the setup once you've put a few thousand miles on your rig and broken in the springs a bit.
 
The 4Runners and GX460's struggle with the KDSS lean as well. It's a PITA and almost makes it not worth having.
 
The 4Runners and GX460's struggle with the KDSS lean as well. It's a PITA and almost makes it not worth having.
I have noticed most 4x4 trucks exhibit a lean of between 0.5” to 1.5”. I’ve checked jeeps, raptors, Silverado’s, Toyota’s...etc. all leaned at the rear. i did notice the ones running blocks for their lift were more consistently level.
 
I have noticed most 4x4 trucks exhibit a lean of between 0.5” to 1.5”. I’ve checked jeeps, raptors, Silverado’s, Toyota’s...etc. all leaned at the rear. i did notice the ones running blocks for their lift were more consistently level.

Agreed. Lean has been with us for as long as slinky suspensioned vehicles have existed.

Beware of the fallacy of KDSS lean.

A depressurized KDSS system would be the equivalent of a disabled sway bar. Which symptoms would not result in a static lean. But dynamic (cornering) lean resistance.

KDSS enables or disables the sway bar. Unless there was a procedural installation issue... A sway bars function is to flatten posture and does nothing to apply lean. Nor should the sway bar system be tweaked in an attempt to use it to correct a lean.

The root cause for leans is within the primary springs. Either sagging or taking a set over time. Spring/shim packers (small 5mm or 10mm shims placed at the rear lower end), or replacing springs, is the solution.
 
Thanks everyone, seems like the answer is to swap out the rear springs and that may help level out the front and rear. I'm going to give it a few weeks to let things settle out a bit so that I can get more accurate measurements. If it's still off, I'll try swapping out the springs.

I'll keep you posted.
 
I have noticed most 4x4 trucks exhibit a lean of between 0.5” to 1.5”. I’ve checked jeeps, raptors, Silverado’s, Toyota’s...etc. all leaned at the rear. i did notice the ones running blocks for their lift were more consistently level.

I was into Jeeps for many years, the TJ/LJ series were notorious for rear passenger lean, usually associated with the fuel tank but they was definitely suspension design issues at play. I never had any lean issues with my F-250/350's or the Ram 2500 that also used rear rear coils.
 
Just closing the loop on this, after about a month the 1" lean persisted (lower on driver's side) so I took back to the dealer and they swapped the rear springs (putting the taller "RH" spring on the driver's side). This corrected the lean and am now level or within 1/8" on all four corners.

FD: 37 7/8
FP: 38

RD: 38 1/2
RP: 38 1/2
 
Happy to hear this worked for you as well.
Through this whole process I noticed that as I raised the rear driver side height to equal the rear pasenger it resulted in the front passenger side becoming lower then the front driver.
My rears are equal but now my front passenger is 1/3" lower.
 
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Happy to hear this worked for you as well.
Through this whole process I noticed that as I raised the rear driver side height to equal the rear pasenger it resulted in the front passenger side becoming lower then the front driver.
My rears are equal but now my front passenger is 1/3" lower.
FYI within 15mm (5/8") is considered within spec by Toyota for the KDSS system.
 
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