Total Chaos 2+ Long travel ... what shocks King's or Fox's (1 Viewer)

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May 25, 2015
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Guy's ,
so I need your honest opinion . I got Total Chaos 2"+ long travel kit that I'm getting ready to install on my '10 FJ and now trying to decide on the shocks . I'm split between Foxes and Kings and have hard time deciding which ones I should get . I did some research in a "blue room" , but I find that a lot of folks there cater or afraid to say anything negative against the vendors and their products .
So have at it , Foxes or Kings and why, for off road adventuring and exploring , no extreme rock crawling or anything like that . Reliability is no. one priority , than goes comfort plush ride off road and handling and should I go with 650 lbs. or 700 lbs. spring if I'm planing to get LCNW front tube bumper with the winch ?
 
The LCNW bumper is a sick bumper! But even with a winch you wont have to worry about the weight as opposed to like and ARB bumper or something. For more on bumper weights and details check my thread out on the blue room, The NEW Complete Front Bumper Listing and Comparison Thread, UPDATED!!! - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum

You can also check out my lift comparison if you haven't already, The NEW Complete Lift Listing and Comparison, They're All Here! UPDATED! - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum

But between Fox and King, both are winners in my book. Probably in my mind I think of King a little higher than Fox though. Fox is amazing don't get me wrong but since they are installing it on Raptors and the new TRD Pro Tacomas and such it is loosing it's exclusiveness and in my mind that may mean to make it readily available in large scale production for these different vehicle companies that they have changed designs and production to make perhaps a "cheaper" product maybe material-wise or durability-wise. That's probably just my head thinking weird things but if I could choose between the two I think I'd choose King.

Be prepared though for quite a different feeling when driving once you have the long travel installed. I drove a guy's long travel FJ just last night and it was a lot less refined of a driving experience, especially when it comes to steering stability and body roll. I guess you could add a secondary shock and get extra stability for your ride yet still retain the dampening and articulation you wish to achieve with long travel.

Here is a link to the FJ I drove, Skunkworker Build - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum

Hope this helps some.
 
Thank you for the links and opinions FJX !!! First i was all Fox , but their customer service is terrible although when it comes to internal components my research showed Foxes being beter and more robust tan Kings . Decisions , decisions ...
 
Can't go wrong with either or!! Personally I'm a Fox fan based of my downhill mountain biking experience. Sure their customer service sucks but when you don't really have to talk to customers on a daily basis like icon you can afford it!
 
What do you plan on doing with the rear to account for the extra track width?
Rear is going to be "Long travel on the cheap" , with Metal-Tek springs , links and Fox shocks . I was thinking on putting wheel spacers , but not sure if it's a good idea .
 
I don't think you necessarily need spacers. I have the Metal-Tech links with Icon "overland" spec springs (long travel, progressive coil) and Icon long travel 2.0" shocks. It provides plenty of travel. You'll want to add extended bump stops to keep your wheels out of the fenders though. I got those from M-T as well.

Stage 1 Icon 2.0" long travel versus standard Stage 1 Icon 2.0"
RearShocks2016-02.JPG


The new lower links really help with articulation by replacing OEM rubber bushing with a johnny joint.
2014-04 MT-LCA (11).JPG
 
Just a suggestion call the tech line at both King and Fox tell them what you are planning on doing and see how they answer your questions. Go from there. I am also using the TC Mid travel on my 011 FJC. When I did the upgrade (2013) I purchased a complete kit both front and rear from MT. They gave me a good deal on this set up and I am currently running 2.5 remote reservoir Icon shocks on both the front and rear, which I purchased with this set up. Have about 20 k on this set up. It is being used as a DD. I live in the land of salt SLUT. So the temperature can go from -10 to 110 and plenty of salt during the winter and other corrosive chemicals that the State Road services decides to use. Wash the truck once a week and use Tri-Flow to lube the uni-bals once a week with the washing. Does this work? Its what TC recommends it`s cheap so I use it. With that being said to date I have replaced both lower uni-balls and had both rear shocks rebuilt. The uni-balls at 24 months not sure on the mile the rear shocks ~20000 just had this done. The reason for the long winded assertion is so you can see what you are getting into as far as maintenance. I have the 650 # spring on the front with a full DO bumper with a bull bar a 9000# winch with 2 7 inch HID lights. I like the 650# springs. I don`t have a front sway bar. It is no auto crosser for sure. But would I go for the 700# springs not at this time. The ride is to harsh and I don`t like the way they flex imo. I also did the MT extended rear suspension with Icon overland spring with MT LCA and UCA with 2.000 wheel spacers and no sway bar. I am considering doing a rear sway bar. So far no problems with the wheel spacers. It tracked really bad with out the wheel spacers. Don`t forget to do limit straps in the front. Extended brake lines both front and rear and get an extension for the rear ABS line for the rear I know this because I broke mine. It handles like a truck that is as large as the FJ with no sway bars. But it works for me and I know how it behaves. Does it handle like a stock FJ no but it rides like a Cadie. I can weigh it down with tools spare parts and camping gear (enough for a week) and feel perfectly safe and comfortable. If you are going this far you might as well regear and do a front locker. Front locker is way better than the A-Track as long as you are judicial with the skinny petal. Way fewer broken CV`s imo. Do I like this set up sure do. I don`t baby the thing and I don`t beat on it either but I do use it. I have done the Rubicon a bunch of trips to Moab with overlanding mixed in as well. Good luck with you quest.
 
Front locker is way better than the A-Track as long as you are judicial with the skinny petal. Way fewer broken CV`s imo.
I beg to differ on this point. A-trac preserves CV axles because it never binds a wheel like a locker has the potential to. I have successfully used A-trac without any lockers on a variety of terrain from Moab, West Texas to the Blue Ridge/Appalachian mountains for 10 years.

FWIW, I am preparing to install a front locker (Harrop e-locker) in the next month, but I plan to still utilize A-trac first in offroad situations. Then the lockers if that doesn't work.
 
Just a suggestion call the tech line at both King and Fox tell them what you are planning on doing and see how they answer your questions. Go from there. I am also using the TC Mid travel on my 011 FJC. When I did the upgrade (2013) I purchased a complete kit both front and rear from MT. They gave me a good deal on this set up and I am currently running 2.5 remote reservoir Icon shocks on both the front and rear, which I purchased with this set up. Have about 20 k on this set up. It is being used as a DD. I live in the land of salt SLUT. So the temperature can go from -10 to 110 and plenty of salt during the winter and other corrosive chemicals that the State Road services decides to use. Wash the truck once a week and use Tri-Flow to lube the uni-bals once a week with the washing. Does this work? Its what TC recommends it`s cheap so I use it. With that being said to date I have replaced both lower uni-balls and had both rear shocks rebuilt. The uni-balls at 24 months not sure on the mile the rear shocks ~20000 just had this done. The reason for the long winded assertion is so you can see what you are getting into as far as maintenance. I have the 650 # spring on the front with a full DO bumper with a bull bar a 9000# winch with 2 7 inch HID lights. I like the 650# springs. I don`t have a front sway bar. It is no auto crosser for sure. But would I go for the 700# springs not at this time. The ride is to harsh and I don`t like the way they flex imo. I also did the MT extended rear suspension with Icon overland spring with MT LCA and UCA with 2.000 wheel spacers and no sway bar. I am considering doing a rear sway bar. So far no problems with the wheel spacers. It tracked really bad with out the wheel spacers. Don`t forget to do limit straps in the front. Extended brake lines both front and rear and get an extension for the rear ABS line for the rear I know this because I broke mine. It handles like a truck that is as large as the FJ with no sway bars. But it works for me and I know how it behaves. Does it handle like a stock FJ no but it rides like a Cadie. I can weigh it down with tools spare parts and camping gear (enough for a week) and feel perfectly safe and comfortable. If you are going this far you might as well regear and do a front locker. Front locker is way better than the A-Track as long as you are judicial with the skinny petal. Way fewer broken CV`s imo. Do I like this set up sure do. I don`t baby the thing and I don`t beat on it either but I do use it. I have done the Rubicon a bunch of trips to Moab with overlanding mixed in as well. Good luck with you quest.

Thank you for the awesome reply . This is exactly what I needed . Your experiences and opinion is a bunch of help . I already have air lockers installed front and rear with a slight re-gear so it runs better in the mountains with 280 tires . My FJ didn't come with the e-locker or A-trac , so for more serious adventures I decided to go with air lockers . All's left to do is install dual air compressor and hook up the air lines to the lockers . Got everything from the East Coast Gear Supply . Good thing you told me about 650 lbs. spring , I was about to go with 700 lbs , but still had a worry in the back of my mind about the stiffness . Also thank you for ABS line heads up , nobody warned me about that . Is that some special el. cable that I need to purchase or something that I can solder myself ?
 
He's talking about the wheel speed sensor that mounts onto/into the hub flange. The cable routes up the spindle and across the upper a-arm. They are not cheap if you have to replace.
 
Yes it is the abs line for the rear. The tech at the Toyota dealer managed to over extended the rear diff and it ripped the electrical line. He found a longer abs electrical line, not sure what he used this was sometime ago and it is visible from what was one previously. I will ask him the next time I visit him. I am not saying this would be an issue for you but keep an eye out for this as it could be a potential issue. As for the A-Track versus air locker drives preference.
 

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