Torque Tube Mods

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by truggier, Nov 9, 2005.

  1. truggier

    truggier

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    Modification of the torque tube I"m doing to make it fit with my longer drivetrain (i.e. chevy 350, nv4500, AA adapter, stock 3 spd TC). Nice to have it be removable in my opinion so that the tranny can be pulled if necessary while leaving the engine in.

    The bolts are 5/8" grade 8.

    Comments / praise / criticism (constructive, lol) welcome. It's only tack welded in right now.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2006
  2. CruisinGA

    CruisinGA

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    I heard somewhere that once the torque tube is removed/modified, it no longer serves its purpose but becomes just another crossmember? (If there is a difference?)

    Anyone care to elaborate?
     
  3. truggier

    truggier

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    Yeah, I've heard that too and would appreciate an elaboration as well. By it's very name, this tube is meant to twist about it's center when the frame flexes, and therefore provide a 'springback' function for the frame. The modification I've done would still allow this to occur but to a lesser extent because of the bolt slop, etc.

    I've also heard many people say they've removed this tube completely without adverse effects. I usually like to try to keep things as close to what Toyota intended as possible...
     
  4. truggier

    truggier

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    No other brave souls want to venture a post on this, huh? I'm going to need to pull these pictures soon to make room to upload others...
     
  5. Plowboy

    Plowboy

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    Did you scab plate the orginal tube and bolt to that or is it bolted directly to the inside channel? You might have issues of leverage since you added the spacer.
    If it is bolted direct to the channel. That channel will flex with the torque tube, not the entire frame=stress crackes in the inside channel and possable broken rivets.
     
  6. truggier

    truggier

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    I welded a 1/4" plate to the torque tube stub, and a matching plate to the torque tube. These two plates are then sandwiched together by three 5/8 inch grade 8 bolts.

    However, I'm also running the AA crossmember on my T/C and am wondering if I need the torque tube at all.
     
  7. bcon

    bcon

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    My first 40 was by no means as insane as some on here, but I just got my license and had HP so I was rough on it. When I did my first v8 it was a 325hp 350 sm420 3spd Tcase, and 35s. I cut the torque tube out of it as it was the same thing every v8 in my club had. I had the same xmember you have and it was fine. I used all 325hp and broke axles like they were free. This summer I did a frame off and nothing was wrong with the frame and it was all square. There were no cracks and no rivets missing or broken. I am not saying this would be the case with all setups like this but I was hard on it and it worked out well. When we put it back to gether we put in a new sm420, rebuilt tcase, and am adding a few more HP. I am not worried one bit and this time it is SOA and 39s with lockers. I will let you know in another 10 or so years how it holds up. Good luck, Eric
     
  8. HawkDriver

    HawkDriver

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    Not saying wether it's right or wrong, but my V8 40 has that tube completely removed as well. Cruiser's new to me, but prob been like that for quite a few years and I've seen no problems yet.

    Nice work though on your setup.

    As far as the springback effect, I can't see that single tube providing much springback, considering the other crossmembers having some effect. Who knows...
     
  9. truggier

    truggier

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    Thanks to all for their input.

    Based on this I just might remove the tube altogether. It'll leave more room for other stuff anyway. Fortunately I only tack welded it in...but I did chew through some drill bits to bore those BA holes.
     
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