Torque Steer/VSC Issues

[2000UZJ]

The past few weeks I have been getting the VSC light and beeping constantly. I have cleaned the front wheel speed sensors, reset the ECU (removed battery for 1 hour).

Few symptoms that will trigger the VSC Alarm:

-Hard acceleration (anything over ~50% throttle.
-Any type of on-ramp that is a 270* turn.
-Speeds above 70MPH seem to trigger it for over 5 minutes (40% of the time)
-After the car wash, or heavy rain it goes off like crazy. I have checked all connections and harnesses to confirm no cuts, abrasions, or corrosion.


Few things that have happened-
-ABS and trac have intervened on the highway and pulled me into other lanes.
-VSC cuts throttle going through intersections
-VSC and ABS lights illuminated constantly until vehicle is shut off (most coming when coming from Low range to High range).
-ATRAC is still operational.
- No CEL or codes thrown, I have scanned while the VSC light was going off.



On to the torque steer...a few months ago I developed a torque steer, constantly pulling to the right when accelerating. I figured alignment, when she went onto the rack we lifted all 4 tires to check for play. On the driver side there is 0 play (of course a little, but nothing to be concerned about). However on the passenger side there was substantial play on the wheel @ 3 and 9o'clock. I would say 1.5" of play. Anyways, a few weeks ago I blew up a CV axle at Windrock. I was having too much fun in 2WD in the rain. However I did notice one thing...the torque steer is gone. It was awesome. Full throttle and it tracked dead straight. I replaced the axle and the torque steer is back. I have a feeling this is partially causing my VSC issues...


Symptoms of the torque steer:
-Any time throttle input is giving the truck will pull right, counter steering with the top of the wheel @ 10-11o'clock depending on how much throttle.
-Full throttle is all over the place.
-Under coasting, hard braking and through the corners she tracks beautifully.
-Cruising at 70MPH is effortless, a little wiggle in the wheel and the whole truck wiggles...no dead zone. However when I hit the gas the dead zone becomes quite large. Wheel must be put at 11o'clock, or I will change lanes. Makes it quite hard to drive in stop go traffic as I'm all over the lane trying to keep it straight.
-Torque Steer was present before I did the suspension swap/front end lift. It seems to be getting worse quickly.

I am thinking right now the inner tie rod is worn, as the outer seems fine. I can't see too far into the front end but it looks like the rack is tight and doesn't budge.


FYI- My suspension setup is as follows:

OEM Torsion bars (indexed and lifted to 2.8" lift)
Bilstein HD Shocks
OME 866+30MM Spacers (3.1" lift)
Revalved N74L with custom upper shock mounts and custom lower mounts.
No Sway bars F/R





Thanks in advance. I can take a video of the steering wheel during driving if that would help anybody diagnose. I'd rather track this down before I get sent into the trees on a mountain pass because VSC thought I was sideways at 70MPH

 

[agaisin]

maybe i missed something - you said there was 1.5" of play on passenger side wheel. did you identify the source of that play and fix it yet?

sounds like you thought about inner and outer tie rod ends, but what about wheel bearings - loose or shot? with that much play i would think it should be 'easy' to see where the play's coming from?

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[2000UZJ]

maybe i missed something - you said there was 1.5" of play on passenger side wheel. did you identify the source of that play and fix it yet?

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I found the play, I haven't found the fix yet. I can't figure out if it's the rack or the inner tie rod. That is why I posted, I figured maybe somebody has had this issue.

 

[agaisin]

I found the play, I haven't found the fix yet. I can't figure out if it's the rack or the inner tie rod. That is why I posted, I figured maybe somebody has had this issue.

ahh - sorry i didn't get that from my initial read. good luck!!

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[2000UZJ]

Alright. After close to 800 miles this weekend I have noticed a few things.

-The VSC only kicks in and applies ABS when I am turning right.
-It will continue to intervene until I turn the wheel slightly to the left and the weight shifts back over
-I unplugged the front wheel speed sensor, disabled the system but alarm still when off. Though no intervention, so I was able to play around on a closed road and steer back and forth to activate the alarm.
-I am running super soft suspension and no sway bars, I am starting to think the yaw sensors are seeing very odd angles from the body roll and thinking I'm in trouble. Which makes sense, but only when I turn right? I checked for chafing of lines and there is none, however I can't seem to get the rear speed sensors out. I don't feel like breaking them so any feedback on how to pull them, I thought about chanel locks and some muscle but don't want to risk cracking the housing, or snapping something forcing it to break free in there.

When I do eventually get them removed, I used a damp rag and a tooth brush to clean them. Should I use something else that may clean a little better? I do plan on replacing the TRE's (inner and outer) sometime this month, I can't seem to get my TRE off the hub in the first place, I tried removing it when I did CV's and couldn't get it off the the bolt with a huge rubber mallet.

 

[spressomon]

Why not just disconnect the wheel sensor(s) in the engine bay?

 

[2000UZJ]

Why not just disconnect the wheel sensor(s) in the engine bay?

That's what I did for the high way drive. However, I do like my VSC and ABS working. Especially in Atlanta and heavy rains.

 

[spressomon]

Your post about using channel locks and not being able to remove the rear wheel sensor(s) made it sound like you might be unaware of the engine bay connectors for same.. Unplugging the ABS connector in the engine bay on my '99 is a whole lot easier/faster without risk to breaking the wheel side sensor. Never looked at a VSC/TRAC equipped system so I may be way off-base...

 

[2000UZJ]

Your post about using channel locks and not being able to remove the rear wheel sensor(s) made it sound like you might be unaware of the engine bay connectors for same.. Unplugging the ABS connector in the engine bay on my '99 is a whole lot easier/faster without risk to breaking the wheel side sensor. Never looked at a VSC/TRAC equipped system so I may be way off-base...

IIRC the wheel speed sensors are the same as the 98-99. The connectors look to be the same. I just can't pull it from the hub, seems to be stuck. They do come out. I need to clean the rear driver sensor. I am thinking that is causing the issue since the others were caked in dirt and mud from over the years. They haven't been cleaned since 2000.

 

[spressomon]

Gotcha. Mine were badly corroded...fortunately I only had to replace both front sensor wire assemblies and not the rears.

 

[2000UZJ]

I'm going to soak them in PB blaster for a few days,leaving the system unplugged and giving it another shot mid week. I am praying the sensor is just dirty and can't read the wheel speed. I'll report back when or if I find anything.

 

[2000UZJ]

The torque steer is getting worse by the mile. It's almost impossible to keep the 100 straight while accelerating. I'm fighting it constantly, it's always pulling to the right now.

I have no clue what this could be, new rack? tie rod ends worn?

I think the VSC issue is a side effect of all of this. I floored the 100 for the first time in weeks today to pass somebody and it just about pulled me into the side of a few vehicles. It was absolutely ridiculous. My '95 Bronco II had more accurate steering than this thing right now. Like I said in earlier posts the passenger side wheel has a ton of movement at 9 o'clock and 3o'clock. 12 and 6 are rock solid. I'm almost affriad to drive it as I feel like I have no control while merging at high way speeds or accelerating off the line from a stop light, I swear people must think I'm drunk...really really drunk ( I was pulled over Monday night because of this, it took forever to explain to the officer what was happening...mainly because I'm not sure what is happening lol)

somebody give me something to look for, its going to the dealership Friday night regardless of cost. I am sure fixing this is cheaper than driving off the road into a bus station or slamming into the person next to me because I hit the gas a little to hard and the truck decided to go postal with no steering. How do I verify if my rack is still good? same for tie rod ends?

 

[petrotk40]

I would bet if you could trace what the play in your passenger wheel, you'll find the problem. The rack could be loose I guess. If it's not leaking it should be fine.

 

[2000UZJ]

Toyota has confirmed the rack is bad. It's internals are actually coming apart. The bushings have disappeared anyways, I have requested they save the old rack and I will disassemble the rack and take pictures of the inner workings. The tech is a 42 year old veteran that is certified on all Land Cruiser platforms and has more experience on the 100's than anybody I've ever heard of. Toyota flies this dude around the US for big jobs

$1750 out the door with new rack, tie rod ends, alignment. I'm not happy, but I'm excited she won't handle like a mysterious smoke in the woods.

 

[shidosha01]

Toyota has confirmed the rack is bad. It's internals are actually coming apart. The bushings have disappeared anyways, I have requested they save the old rack and I will disassemble the rack and take pictures of the inner workings. The tech is a 42 year old veteran that is certified on all Land Cruiser platforms and has more experience on the 100's than anybody I've ever heard of. Toyota flies this dude around the US for big jobs

$1750 out the door with new rack, tie rod ends, alignment. I'm not happy, but I'm excited she won't handle like a mysterious smoke in the woods.

I just had rack n pinion steering replaced and both axles replaced a few months ago. Now my VSC kicks in at entering and exiting ramps. Kinda scary because it also happens at 25 mph curvy roads. And when the vsc kicked in I almost lost control of my rig. Could there be something my mechanic have missed after replacing steering rack?

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[RobRed]

I just had rack n pinion steering replaced and both axles replaced a few months ago. Now my VSC kicks in at entering and exiting ramps. Kinda scary because it also happens at 25 mph curvy roads. And when the vsc kicked in I almost lost control of my rig. Could there be something my mechanic have missed after replacing steering rack?

Sent from my not so impressive iphone5

Steering angle sensor needs to be calibrated.

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[shidosha01]

Steering angle sensor needs to be calibrated.

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Thanks a bunch and you were right. I didn't have a scan tool to reset and give this a try.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UvtwFVT1Q10

The above link worked for me and no more vsc issues. I drove all day today without any issues. ****please note that I only experienced vsc issues after rack n pinion replacement***** the pins on the LC OBD ii 2001 is different than what you see on the video clip. I positioned the paper clip in a similar fashion as seen in the video and had the same warning lights flashing during the reset.

I've driven over a hundred miles with no more issues with the VSC.

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[NOSAJ]

Ok I searched and this seems to be the closest to my issue. However, my situation is different.

2001 lx.
New rack
New cv axle drivers side
Passenger cv axle rebuilt
New front bearings
New rotors
Brake pads
New upper ball joints
Alignment
Maybe 300 miles since all this work.

I get an alarm only when turning right off our local exit. the type of 4 leaf clover exit where it loops around. There are NO other symptoms and the alarm stops when coming out of the turn. NO warning lights. NO funny pulling to one side. Just the alarm. Only when turning right off these long sweeping loop type exits. It doesn’t do it during a regular right turn.

Only other thing that I’ve noticed that seems different is when going straight at any speeds over 50-55 the steering wheel pulses or has a slight trimmer. I was thinking the steering shaft might need to be rebuilt? But not sure if the alarm is a wheel sensor or if like listed above the steering angle sensor needs to be recalibrated? Again NO other symptoms…just the alarm noise and back to normal. Any help appreciated!

Jason

 

[2001LC]

Check:

1. That all dash lights are working. The system goes through a self test. first few seconds IG key turn to ON. All warning lights should come on.
2. Check your brake fluid level. Read, what is embossed on brake reservoir, on how to set level.
3. Check wheel bearings. You should have zero play at the 12 & 6 o'clock.
4. Make sure all ball joints good.
5. Make sure all TRE inner and outer good.
6. Make sure all shock good.
7. Make sure AHC pressures and vehicle stance, correct.
8. Check your stabilizer system links and bushing.
9. Have tire balanced.
10. Make sure all wheel lug nuts, torqued to 97ft-lbf.
11. Make sure alignment correct.
12. Zero point calibrate.

Here' loose wheel bearing, 2K miles after being replaced. The INDY shops, "claims" to be Toyota & Lexus specialist. They're rip-off shops can't keep a good mechanic. But hey. prices aren't bad! You get what you pay for.

 

[NOSAJ]

I did all the work.

Thanks! I need to do:
1&2

Bearings are new. I’ll recheck

Upper ball joints new

Rack and outer Tre new and oem

Shocks are Ironman but will check probably 5 years old.

AHC is deleted. Has ome lift

Need to check links. Rear are original. Front bushings original but has Trail tailor links

Tires are new. Just balanced

Will check torque

Shop just did alignment

Need to do zero point calibration

Thank for the help!

Jason