Torque Spec for Drian Bolt on Transmission Pan (100 Series)?

[NHouston]

Getting several different numbers online for my 100 sereies. Can someone help me out here? Thanks in advance for your help. It is appreciated.

Factory Torque for Drain Bolt on Transmission Pan (100 Series)?

Stephen

 

[TheHomeBuilder]

Looks like 15 ft lbs

 

[flintknapper]

Just be sure to use a new crush gasket each time.

I don't ever 'torque' mine, just do it by feel (Gutentight). Obviously, you don't want to strip out the threads in the transmission pan, but you'd really have to crank on it to do that (if not using a long handled ratchet, breaker bar, etc).

 

[Ohthetrees]

I can tell you that the transmission oil pan drain threads are very delicate and soft (2001 4 speed) . I did 15lb with a good torque wrench and I felt the threads start to let go. I remove the bolt, and a brand new bolt would not spin in easily. I dropped the pan, cleaned up the threads with a tap, then carefully torqued to about 12 pounds. So far no leaks in six months. I have a feeling the threads were already in delicate condition from the previous owner.

I’m kind of nervous about the next time I drain the fluid, because rather than flush the whole transmission every 60k miles or so, my strategy is to drain the pan every other oil change. I hope the threads are in good enough shape to hold up.

 

[bigredmachine]

go euro spec, gutentight

 

[flintknapper]

I can tell you that the transmission oil pan drain threads are very delicate and soft (2001 4 speed) . I did 15lb with a good torque wrench and I felt the threads start to let go. I remove the bolt, and a brand new bolt would not spin in easily. I dropped the pan, cleaned up the threads with a tap, then carefully torqued to about 12 pounds. So far no leaks in six months. I have a feeling the threads were already in delicate condition from the previous owner.

Yep! That's why I advocate NOT using a torque wrench or any other long handled tool where you gain leverage. IF the torque wrench is not accurate....you can damage the threads. Just use a standard length ratchet (3/8") or even a box end wrench. You'll be able to tell by 'feel' when the bolt is tight enough.

I’m kind of nervous about the next time I drain the fluid, because rather than flush the whole transmission every 60k miles or so, my strategy is to drain the pan every other oil change. I hope the threads are in good enough shape to hold up.

I change the transmission fluid (drain and fill) in my LX and 80 series fairly often (about every 10-12K miles) and both bolts will tighten up plenty with no hint of slipping. Use a new bolt gasket each time.

^^^^^^^^ Expand for reply

 

[2001LC]

I can tell you that the transmission oil pan drain threads are very delicate and soft (2001 4 speed) . I did 15lb with a good torque wrench and I felt the threads start to let go. I remove the bolt, and a brand new bolt would not spin in easily. I dropped the pan, cleaned up the threads with a tap, then carefully torqued to about 12 pounds. So far no leaks in six months. I have a feeling the threads were already in delicate condition from the previous owner.

I’m kind of nervous about the next time I drain the fluid, because rather than flush the whole transmission every 60k miles or so, my strategy is to drain the pan every other oil change. I hope the threads are in good enough shape to hold up.

I've found transmission plug bolt threads damaged also. It's so sweet Toyota uses hard metal in the pan threads and softer in the plug bolt threads.

My first time I pulled the pan, as was going to replace pan. Now I'd just use thread repair tap with thick grease to hold waste metal, along with new OEM plug bolt.

I still use torque wrench every time, without issue.