Top shelf shocks

Joined
Apr 20, 2020
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Washington
Hey all,
What’s the current selection of top shelf 80 series bolt on shocks? I keep coming back to Slinky stage 5 with bypass and adjustable compression/rebound dampening but want to see what else is out there at this time that is comparable. I’ve seen Fox mentioned a few places but can’t locate any specs. King, Radflo, Slee, and others make remote resi options but not with bypass and comp/reb adjustability, correct? BP-51s are internal bypass w/ adjustable comp/reb? What else is out there that I may be missing?
 

Irish Reiver

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Have you looked at the thread in the sticky section?

 
Joined
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Syracuse, Utah
Having run several different shocks and now on the Slinky Stage5 bypass shocks for the past 18months I can say it's the best ride and performing bolt on shock I've experienced on an 80. Obviously the comperable Icon shock will be the closest to it, but will have different valving. I'm not aware of anything comperable from FOX that would be a bolt on option for an 80. The BP51 is good but since they are internal bypass the bypasses take up volume inside the shock so it's closer to a 2.0 shock than a true 2.5. The OME shock will also limit droop a little (too short). The Dobinson MRR is another similar option. King will have a shock option for the 80 but you get a generic tune for the 80 unless you send them into Accutune or somewhere else to get them really dialed for the 80.

With any top shelf shock, maintenance (rebuilding frequency) should be a consideration. Lots of factors go into how often a shock will need to be rebuilt. FWIW, I ran the Slinky Stage4 shocks for 3 years without needing a rebuild. Been running the Stage5 for a year and half with no sign of needing a rebuild yet.
Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
 
Joined
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Messages
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Washington
Having run several different shocks and now on the Slinky Stage5 bypass shocks for the past 18months I can say it's the best ride and performing bolt on shock I've experienced on an 80. Obviously the comperable Icon shock will be the closest to it, but will have different valving. I'm not aware of anything comperable from FOX that would be a bolt on option for an 80. The BP51 is good but since they are internal bypass the bypasses take up volume inside the shock so it's closer to a 2.0 shock than a true 2.5. The OME shock will also limit droop a little (too short). The Dobinson MRR is another similar option. King will have a shock option for the 80 but you get a generic tune for the 80 unless you send them into Accutune or somewhere else to get them really dialed for the 80.

With any top shelf shock, maintenance (rebuilding frequency) should be a consideration. Lots of factors go into how often a shock will need to be rebuilt. FWIW, I ran the Slinky Stage4 shocks for 3 years without needing a rebuild. Been running the Stage5 for a year and half with no sign of needing a rebuild yet.
Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Thanks Adam- that’s what I was looking for. Correct me if I’m wrong but are the Icon/Slinky the only bolt on external bypass available?
 
Joined
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I’m super happy with my Slee (ADS). While I’ve never experienced a bypass shock I feel like there comes a point of diminishing return when working within the suspension travel limits of the 80 or any stock suspension system. We aren’t trophy trucks where travel is measured in feet.

I do feel some sort of bump stop upgrade is well worth it. My Timbren’s have been great. Zero maintenance and a fraction of what hydro bumps cost.
 
Joined
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I’m super happy with my Slee (ADS). While I’ve never experienced a bypass shock I feel like there comes a point of diminishing return when working within the suspension travel limits of the 80 or any stock suspension system. We aren’t trophy trucks where travel is measured in feet.

I do feel some sort of bump stop upgrade is well worth it. My Timbren’s have been great. Zero maintenance and a fraction of what hydro bumps cost.
I really like my Timbren bumpstops too. It’s a nice addition for sure.

I wouldn’t say the point of diminishing returns happens as soon as one might think with an 80. I’ll use the Canguro Racing 200 series as an example since I’ve spent a little time in that race truck. Because it races in the Stock Full class it is required to have factory suspension arms and links (as well as steering and some other things). So the amount of travel available isn’t really any different from a stock IFS 200 series but it still definitely takes advantage of large triple bypass shocks front and rear. So the amount of travel isn’t what would determine if a vehicle will benefit from bypasses or not. I think an 80 can definitely benefit from bypass shocks depending on how it’s driven.

A couple thoughts about specific features of different bypass shocks and how they are adjusted. The BP51 has two collars that are adjusted with a tool that comes with the shock. That’s fine but you do need to keep track of the tool so you can make adjustments.
The Slinky/Icon as well as some of the other non bypass shocks with just compression control have a knob that is turned to make the adjustment and no tool is needed.
There are 10 adjustment settings for both rebound and compression respectively on the BP51.
The Slinky/Icon bypass shocks have 25 adjustment settings for both compression and rebound.
Dobinson MRR shocks have 20 settings for low speed compression and 10 for high speed compression and around 12 settings for rebound.
A higher number of settings doesn’t necessarily mean a shock is better than one with fewer. Generally speaking it means a greater ability to fine tune the shock for specific behavior and ride control.
Slinky shocks also have an internal “bump zone”. Not sure if there is a similar feature in the others.
 

FMC80

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As far as I know Adam and Morgan are the only two dudes in the US that have the slinky stage 5. For the rest of us peasants we have to settle for stage 4 at best (if you can even find them).

What are you looking to do with the “top shelf” shock?
 
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I’m very happy with the fox shocks in the back, still reassembling it after one ton swap and have new fox shocks for front but haven’t driven with them up front yet.

The rear shocks with airbags are so much nicer for potholed gravel roads.
 
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I really like my Timbren bumpstops too. It’s a nice addition for sure.

I wouldn’t say the point of diminishing returns happens as soon as one might think with an 80. I’ll use the Canguro Racing 200 series as an example since I’ve spent a little time in that race truck. Because it races in the Stock Full class it is required to have factory suspension arms and links (as well as steering and some other things). So the amount of travel available isn’t really any different from a stock IFS 200 series but it still definitely takes advantage of large triple bypass shocks front and rear. So the amount of travel isn’t what would determine if a vehicle will benefit from bypasses or not. I think an 80 can definitely benefit from bypass shocks depending on how it’s driven.

A couple thoughts about specific features of different bypass shocks and how they are adjusted. The BP51 has two collars that are adjusted with a tool that comes with the shock. That’s fine but you do need to keep track of the tool so you can make adjustments.
The Slinky/Icon as well as some of the other non bypass shocks with just compression control have a knob that is turned to make the adjustment and no tool is needed.
There are 10 adjustment settings for both rebound and compression respectively on the BP51.
The Slinky/Icon bypass shocks have 25 adjustment settings for both compression and rebound.
Dobinson MRR shocks have 20 settings for low speed compression and 10 for high speed compression and around 12 settings for rebound.
A higher number of settings doesn’t necessarily mean a shock is better than one with fewer. Generally speaking it means a greater ability to fine tune the shock for specific behavior and ride control.
Slinky shocks also have an internal “bump zone”. Not sure if there is a similar feature in the others.

While that may be true how many of us are pushing our 80's hard enough to feel that much difference. Mine is not a stripped down race truck in the stock class. It's loaded full of camping gear and booze running a moderate pace down a trail. Pushing on these trucks that hard generally results in some other weak link showing its ugly head. Like tire carriers falling off. :hillbilly: How much stress is the front axle knuckle balls going to take at those speeds and loaded truck weights before the housing fails?

If you have the coin to drop on a bypass shock than by all means go ahead. If you have to work on any kind of budget I say you're better off to take some of that money and replace old warn out suspension bushings steering ball joints etc...
 
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While that may be true how many of us are pushing our 80's hard enough to feel that much difference. Mine is not a stripped down race truck in the stock class. It's loaded full of camping gear and booze running a moderate pace down a trail. Pushing on these trucks that hard generally results in some other weak link showing its ugly head. Like tire carriers falling off. :hillbilly: How much stress is the front axle knuckle balls going to take at those speeds and loaded truck weights before the housing fails?

If you have the coin to drop on a bypass shock than by all means go ahead. If you have to work on any kind of budget I say you're better off to take some of that money and replace old warn out suspension bushings steering ball joints etc...
Valid points.....and I deserve the tire carrier comment. :)
However, the point of bypasses is to allow the oil to flow freely with less resistance (by bypassing) than there is through the primary valve stack. That means you can set it for a nice soft ride on the road and/or to ride nice and smooth on the moderate speeds roads but still have the dampening needed for the big hits at speed through the primary valve stack. It definitely isn't a shock type that require a truck to be a stripped out race truck or to be pushed hard to see/feel the benefits. (side note: with the safety cage/bumpers etc in the race truck I don't think the weight is that much different from a stock one). One argument could be "well why not just get a shock that has a valve stack that has that soft, smooth setup"? You could but those shocks may not have enough dampening to control body roll and bottoming out on a heavier trail rig. The bypasses give you the best of both worlds by having the dampening control to keep the truck smooth and stable when the shock piston moves past the bypass zone and into the primary valve stack, whether that's in a corner or when you don't see that deeper hole when you're just cruising down a trail.

Bypass shocks definitely aren't cheap and there are some nice shocks that don't have bypasses that can work nicely on an 80. Before I got the Slinky shocks I had a totally different opinion on shocks and suspension in general on the 80. I figured, just give me a shock that keep the truck from pogo-sticking down the trail and doesn't bottom out on every bump and I'll be good. After experiencing the benefits of a really nice suspension for the past few years my opinion has changed completely. And I would say I feel the benefits on the road and mild trails as much as I do pushing the truck hard. I still realize the expense of a high end suspension isn't in the cards for everyone.
 

LINUS

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I’m running a full coilover Icon on my G2 Tundra - not adj model, but amazing for a IFS truck.

I’ll be doing RR Icons & then Icons on my 80.

I’m sold on them if $$ isn’t tight.
 

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