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Any details on this? I tried searching green hub fan clutch and nothing came up. I need to replace my fan clutch soon.
Any details on this? I tried searching green hub fan clutch and nothing came up.
I need to replace my fan clutch soon.
Ohhh ok. Mine is a '97, so I guess I need the blue fan clutch?
Nothing is particularly wrong with my fan clutch now, but I need to take it off to do other seals and stuff and will be making a long interstate drive in a couple of months, so I would like to make sure I don't run into any issues. 220k on the clock so I am thinking I should change it now?
Kevin, how thick did you go? I've got 100K cst in the 's and it's been just fine even at prolonged highway speeds.
Never mind, saw the build thread after I posted.
It is a newer style blue hub. No belt slip at all.
You might have a point with your theory, but it sure moves more air than the my blue hub with 30K.
The only clutch available from Toyota is the neutered blue hub. The only "upgrade" path is used. That said, it should last longer than a couple of years, maybe try different fluid?
Could be...I think you did it the first two times. What truck am I looking for at a pick n pull for a green or black hub??
Good deal. The most that I have tried is 30K, thinking of ordering 50K next time.
In talking with some way smarter about these fluids than I, there are a couple of characteristics of the fluid that limit how far it can be pushed:
When heavily sheared (high viscosity with small shear area, like the late type blue hub), at some point, it will produce more heat than shear (torque transfer). More heat effectively reduces viscosity, making the process cascade, get worse. The heat oxidizes the fluid, shortening it's life.
If this continues, at some point, the fluid goes into a state where the shear is 10% or less of original. This is reversible, when the extreme shear is removed, allowed to cool, it returns to the original state.
This would explain why the clutches with smaller shearing area are never as strong as the ones with larger area. Take a black/aqua/early blue hub, with 10K in it and it will bark/slip properly tensioned belts, when quick snap revved after a heat soak. They attempt to pull your laundry through the grill. I have never been able to get that type of performance from a blue hub. Even worse is the red hub, regardless of viscosity are always weak, when stressed they fall flat, when allowed to cool, return to feeling somewhat strong.
From what I have been told and my observation agrees: The strongest clutch is one with the most shearing area. This needs less fluid viscosity to deliver good torque, the fluid is beat up less, will last longer and will deliver the most consistent torque drive when stressed.