Too much frame rust? (1 Viewer)

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Dec 17, 2017
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Location
Columbus, OH
I am looking at a FJ62 locally that appears to be in pretty good condition except it has a decent amount of rust on the frame. Would I just be throwing $4000 down the toilet if I bought this truck? I don't know what to expect or look for with a rusted frame. I am going to see it in about an hour, but I will not be making an offer today. I know to look for rust in the rain gutter, wheel wells, door frames, and around the wind shield. I have also read to pay attention to how it is shifting. Anything else I am missing?

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FJ62 Hood 1.jpg
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Not an easy answer. If it's mechanically sound and the frame isn't too rusty it may be worth $3000 to $4000. If you are just looking for a truck to play with and not worry about it could be a good platform. If it's something you want to make really nice then hold off and find something better. My rule of thumb is to buy the cleanest one I can find that matches my budget. Spending low thinking you can fix it up will mean you spend a ton of time and money on the truck before you ever get to drive it if you ever finish it.

Learned from experience
 
My goal is not to restore this to show or anything like that. This would be my daily driver, but I only live about 2 miles from my office and would not put many miles on it. Probably at least once a month I am driving 60-100 miles to go fish or hunt somewhere and I would like to take this truck on those trips. Besides keeping my high school beaters running I owned an XJ for five years and had to do some mechanical work on that. I am definitely not a car expert so I'm sure I would have to have professional help at some point. I am in a position that I can afford to spend money as necessary repairs come up. I just don't want the whole thing to fall apart the first time I drive through a field.
 
Be sure to probe the chassis and see if it's solid with surface rust or crumbling. If it's crumbly be wary.
 
that thing has a crap ton of bondo in the rear quarters and the dog leg over the rear wheels. the back end has clearly been repainted.
the picture of the frame looks like a chunk of it is gone.
 
need pics of the front of the rear spring hanger area, just picked up a parts rig and the frame is full in that area and its breaking out on the inside.
I'd find someone local, if possible, to look at it with you.
what is the asking price? and mileage.

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Get an 80 or pay $10k for a decent 60. Always buy a landcruiser for the quality of the frame and body. Engine and gearbox issues are much easier to repair to a high standard. I don't think you can ever fix a rusty old hulk.

That thing in the pics shouldn't be on the road.
 
I see a chunk missing too. Saw it right off. I tried to zoom in but my phones being fussy then I see two others pointing it out too. That right there is the kicker. Frames your biggest worry. My first truck had holes bigger than silver dollars around the shackle mounts. I DD it like that for 5 years but never wheeled it. Eventually sold it for parts cuz I didn’t want anyone trying to drive it any longer.
 
Run Forest
 
I just did some of this frame work in September due to a failed inspection. Front of the rear springs where the perch mounts to the frame. Bitch was grinding off the rivets in the body mount to get it out of the way. Both sides ...outer frame. Sucks but as the young people say these days..."it is what it is!!"

meaning you just got $hit on but you're gonna have to take it! Anyway not a big deal...just get a $800 dollars worth of mig welding stuff, a lift and grinder, some C clamps and 2 dollar can of spray paint.

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The inner frame box material that is rusted and cracked is not going to kill your frame as long as the main C channel is good. Toyota added that mud catching metal after the 40 and 55 series had open C channels and I never have seen a good one break.

I bought a truck 9 years ago with rear frame rust and I'm still happily driving it all over the US. Clean it. Patch it. Rust inhibitor.

A frame swap is not an easy task.
 
I just did some of this frame work in September due to a failed inspection. Front of the rear springs where the perch mounts to the frame. Bitch was grinding off the rivets in the body mount to get it out of the way. Both sides ...outer frame. Sucks but as the young people say these days..."it is what it is!!"

meaning you just got $hit on but you're gonna have to take it! Anyway not a big deal...just get a $800 dollars worth of mig welding stuff, a lift and grinder, some C clamps and 2 dollar can of spray paint.


that body and spring hanger should have come off the frame and that entire section flush patched.
 
that body and spring hanger should have come off the frame and that entire section flush patched.

That is what I thought I needed to do on the drivers side. But after pulling the body mount off and getting behind I found solid metal behind most of it and solid metal behind the spring hanger. I was going to cut the top piece of the spring hanger off at the weld and weld it back on but it really didn't need it. The passenger side was not as bad.
 

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