I'm planning on buying a 6" dobinsons lift kit on my 94 LC, I'm assuming I need to buy both front & rear drive shafts? Probably gonna go with the Tom Woods.
Tom Wood Drive Shaft Dimensions (1 Viewer)
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I'd measure your flange angles after your lift and before you buy so you know if they will actually work for your setup.
What size tires are you going with that requires a 6" lift?
^^^^ this
Every lift well be a little different. Tom woods has a really fast turn around.
I would suggest going with 3 to 4" lift and Delta arm they move the axle forward just enough so that you don't have to cut
Unless you have driven a 80 with a 6" lift and are OK with it, IMO the 6" lift makes it tippy
I haven't driven a lifted 6" 80, just driven mine around with stock height. I was gonna go with the whole kit & put the ironman 4x4 caster correcting plates.
So if you go with a 4" lift you won''t need a rear drive shaft and with the delta arms you don't need caster correcting plates.
Saving should almost pay for the arms.
It won't be a good DD with a 6" lift JMHO
Saving should almost pay for the arms.
It won't be a good DD with a 6" lift JMHO
There is a lot involved when you go to a 6" lift. a 3" or 4" (as was suggested) is a lot easier to get right. The more lift you add the harder it will be to get it to drive well without throwing money at it. Also, you will probably have clearance issues between the caster plates and your stock radius arms.
If you do buy a dc shaft, you need to make sure your front flange it pointing at the front t case flange. It shouldn't be off by more than 1°. Mine is around 2° and I still get some vibes from it. I am currently running a Landtank shaft. You will also need to measurement from flange to flange for them to build it to the right length. This length will be determined by your suspension height. If you pony up for Delta arms (and you should) they will also add length to your driveshaft.
If you do buy a dc shaft, you need to make sure your front flange it pointing at the front t case flange. It shouldn't be off by more than 1°. Mine is around 2° and I still get some vibes from it. I am currently running a Landtank shaft. You will also need to measurement from flange to flange for them to build it to the right length. This length will be determined by your suspension height. If you pony up for Delta arms (and you should) they will also add length to your driveshaft.
The Delta arms are a bolt in option that 1) correct caster 2) allow more room for the tie rod during full articulation 3) moves the axle forward re-centering the wheel in the wheel well on lifted Rigs and gives needed clearance at the back of the wheel wells for 37" tires
A 3 link requires tons of cutting and fab work, cost about 5 times as much and if you don't get it right it won't be fun to drive it on the street. but you well get great poser shots for you Instagram account
IMHO the 80 is very capable wheeler if you want to go to the next level ( think Buggy ) the 80 is not the right platform
A 3 link requires tons of cutting and fab work, cost about 5 times as much and if you don't get it right it won't be fun to drive it on the street. but you well get great poser shots for you Instagram account
IMHO the 80 is very capable wheeler if you want to go to the next level ( think Buggy ) the 80 is not the right platform
I dont think im gonna go buggy, but just a once maybe twice a month weekend warrior I can sleep in. Since I'm reading all these replies, im gonna buy the delta long arms. I just don't know if the 3" or 5" will be the correct onesThe Delta arms are a bolt in option that 1) correct caster 2) allow more room for the tie rod during full articulation 3) moves the axle forward re-centering the wheel in the wheel well on lifted Rigs and gives needed clearance at the back of the wheel wells for 37" tires
A 3 link requires tons of cutting and fab work, cost about 5 times as much and if you don't get it right it won't be fun to drive it on the street. but you well get great poser shots for you Instagram account
IMHO the 80 is very capable wheeler if you want to go to the next level ( think Buggy ) the 80 is not the right platform
Just like the drives shafts you need to get the lift on and see where you at, or just go for the 5" arms better to have to much caster then not enough.
Keep in mind that most lifts are going to give you more lift then advertised. IMHO 37s on a 3" lift is the sweet spot for a 80
I would also suggest the Dobinson suspension
The buggy thing was about @Oneops question about the 3link.
Gotcha, thanks man. I would hate to drop $1500 on the 3" & find out theyre not enough as soon as i drive it.
Wow when I first looked at them they were $1000.
I was looking at getting the bushings installed & new hardware & the shipping to CA, came out to $1500ish
Some numbers for you. I put 3" coils on my 80. They were Dobinson linear coils +220 pounds of load (C59-170 and C59-185, front and rear). They netted me 24" up front and 25" out back when measured from hub center to wheel well (no flares on mine). I could 37's if I wanted too.
The best path forward (but slowest) is to add your suspension of choice, and then have the alignment checked. Call up Delta with your caster numbers so they can get you the arms that fit best. While you are waiting for your arms to arrive, measure your flanges and lengths to get DC driveshafts if needed. I'd also get adjustable upper rear arms to dial in the rear driveshaft angle, and a Delta or Eimkeith panhard bracket to flatten your rear panhard too.
Even better would be to add any bumpers pr armor that you want before your suspension so you get the right coils. Add all the weight first, then get your rig weighed, and give one of the great vendors here a call for the correct coils and shocks.
The best path forward (but slowest) is to add your suspension of choice, and then have the alignment checked. Call up Delta with your caster numbers so they can get you the arms that fit best. While you are waiting for your arms to arrive, measure your flanges and lengths to get DC driveshafts if needed. I'd also get adjustable upper rear arms to dial in the rear driveshaft angle, and a Delta or Eimkeith panhard bracket to flatten your rear panhard too.
Even better would be to add any bumpers pr armor that you want before your suspension so you get the right coils. Add all the weight first, then get your rig weighed, and give one of the great vendors here a call for the correct coils and shocks.
did you need to change your drive shaft length when you moved the axle forward? I am planning to do this and am curious.
Yes, Tom woods rebuilt and lengthened the first shaft they built me for $100 plus shipping at that price it was a no brainer.
When I got the shaft back it appeared to be a brand new shaft.
That’s what I call Great customer service.
It seems to me if you lift your truck then move the axle forward with Delta or Slee arms or the like that the drive shaft is now to short. That’s another reason I went with a Tom Woods custom driveshaft.
They have you Measure from flange to flange and built the shaft accordingly.
It not a one size fits all !!
When I got the shaft back it appeared to be a brand new shaft.
That’s what I call Great customer service.
It seems to me if you lift your truck then move the axle forward with Delta or Slee arms or the like that the drive shaft is now to short. That’s another reason I went with a Tom Woods custom driveshaft.
They have you Measure from flange to flange and built the shaft accordingly.
It not a one size fits all !!
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I just installed a Tom Woods double cardan shaft in my 80 a couple of weeks ago. Fixed my front end vibration.
I have a 2 inch old man emu medium lift and 2 inch Delta radius arms.
I have a 2 inch old man emu medium lift and 2 inch Delta radius arms.
